New Ruger GP100 Problem

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  • Hopper

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    Ok, I saw it... wow. It's definitely getting out of time there somehow, and I'm not sure what to make of it. I'm probably using the wrong terms, but I know that indexing arm needs to grab onto the teeth on the back side of the ejector to rotate the cylinder. And if you're fully going DA on the hammer, I can't see how that could be short-stroking the trigger. Though that was a pretty good guess that would have made sense.

    It's a little hard to see for sure, but it looks like when the cylinder is "skipping a beat", that little paw that comes up from the bottom of the frame into the cylinder notch isn't retracting to allow for cylinder rotation the way it does when it is rotating properly. Though if that were the case, I think you'd have a binding issue, not a "skipping" problem.

    That is just weird! Definitely keep this thread updated. Who knows... maybe you'll get it back by New Year's if you send it in today!
     
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    EdC

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    Ok, I saw it... wow. It's definitely getting out of time there somehow, and I'm not sure what to make of it. I'm probably using the wrong terms, but I know that indexing arm needs to grab onto the teeth on the back side of the ejector to rotate the cylinder. And if you're fully going DA on the hammer, I can't see how that could be short-stroking the trigger. Though that was a pretty good guess that would have made sense.

    I also noticed that when the cylinder is "skipping a beat", that little paw that comes up from the bottom of the frame into the cylinder notch isn't retracting to allow for cylinder rotation the way it does when it is rotating properly.

    That is just weird! Definitely keep this thread updated. Who knows... maybe you'll get it back by New Year's if you send it in today!

    It is a weird problem alright, and I'm glad I was able to get it on vid. Normally, when a Ruger is short stroked on DA, the hammer doesn't cock and the gun jams. I didn't catch that the cylinder stop wasn't retracting fully. Something must causing the cylinder pawl (or "hand"), from extending and rising. Otherwise, the trigger or hammer would just jam.

    I've worked repair on electronics many many years ago (tubes and then 8" floppies"), and the hardest problem to fix is one that is intermittent. The video should help the repair folks at Ruger figure it out.
     

    CLowe

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    You will Love this gun .
    Also Ruger has the best customer service I have ever dealt with .
     

    EdC

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    That was the first thing I noticed too. Either that thing needed a good lubing, or there was a mouse hiding in there, lol.

    It's noisy, that's for sure. That was one of the things I mentioned when I sent it back. I think the tech lubed it up good, because after dry firing it awhile, there's some seepage from the trigger assembly/frame joint. The squeaking noise is coming from the mainspring area, I think. Whatever it is, it ain't right.
     

    EdC

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    Update

    Well, Ruger sent another return label on Jan 5th (the took a hiatus on shipping during the holidays by request of the carriers), and I got the revolver back after repairs. This time the replaced the pawl and refitted the new one. Cylinder turns like a champ now. However, after about 50 pulls on the trigger, the trigger starts sticking on the return. Not the usual little bit of stickiness that I understand is common and will go away over time, but the kind of stickiness where the trigger stops when it has about another 1/8 inch to go. Before anyone asks, I'm not short stroking the trigger.

    I could be that the new pawl is hanging up on the frame slot, it could be a combination of that with burrs in the channel for the trigger return spring, or I understand that the trigger plunger can also contribute to it. My real issues is that things seem to get out of whack after a number of trigger pulls, then it settles down with only the usual "needs a little tweaking" stickiness that I understand is common to the GP100.

    I told the nice lady at Ruger customer service (they really are nice people, no sarcasm there at all) that I really wasn't too confident in this gun, and if I had my druthers I'd rather have it replaced than have another try at repair. She wholeheartedly agreed (third time back, and they usually replace it) and sent me shipping label to send it in and they would replace it with another GP100, shipped to my FFL of choice.

    So, I'm little disappointed in Ruger QC, but I'd guess that a lot of thought has gone into the whole production, repair equation. I'm thinking that a few guns will come off the line that shouldn't, some of those guns can be repaired in one or two tries, but if Ruger can't fix on two tries, it's better for a number reasons (cost effective, customer satisfaction) to just replace it.

    Overall, I'm very happy with Ruger, it was just one of those things, and in keeping with my terrible luck with pistol/revolver failure. If I get ambitious, I'll post the video of the malfunction that I'm including with the return.

    As an aside, I think that it really helped me out to be able to show the tech what was happening by including a video of the problem.
     

    1775usmarine

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    I got one mine about a week or so after my post. The guy said he put less than 150 through it. It was made I think Feb of 2014 not sure when yours was made, but I have put maybe another 200 through it with no problems yet, hopefully it stays that way. Thanks for the update.
     

    throttletony

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    Glad they took care of you! All things being equal, I will pick a ruger or S&W nowadays for their cust srvc and based in US, and no b.s. warranty coverage.

    I have a GP100 and found that the channel/hole for the trigger return spring was a little rough inside. I took a drill bit (1/4" I think) and HAND-reamed and smoothed the entire length of the hole. That cleared up any issue with trigger return for me (although mine never stuck like yours did)

    Great trigger job info here: Ruger SP101 Trigger Job Guide | Steps 21 to 30
    and the step I mentioned is step # 23 in this process. These instructions are for an SP101 trigger, but the internal mechanics are exactly the same between a sp101 and gp100
     

    EdC

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    Great trigger job info here: Ruger SP101 Trigger Job Guide | Steps 21 to 30
    and the step I mentioned is step # 23 in this process. These instructions are for an SP101 trigger, but the internal mechanics are exactly the same between a sp101 and gp100

    Wow, that's one of best guides I've seen. There's a lot of good info out there on the Rugers. I like the "book of knowledge" series for information, but there are no illustrations. Still well written and useful, though:

    https://gunner777.wordpress.com/2008/08/24/ruger-gp100sp101book-of-knowledge/
     

    EdC

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    I just got the replacement GP100 from Ruger today! Actually, my FFL got last Tuesday, but I didn't know about it. Anyway, checked out ok at the dealer, but after a little dry firing the cylinder stop appears to be sticking. Yeah, the GP100 is sure "built like a tank." Now if I could only get one that is built like a functional revolver . . .... Video below:

    [video=youtube_share;CNo3bapFFAc]http://youtu.be/CNo3bapFFAc[/video]
     
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    hps

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    Yes their customer service is 2nd to none!! with that being said, it just seems that ALOT of Rugers need "sent back" It hasn't stopped me from buying their product. Seems their QC is lacking!!
     

    EdC

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    Sounds REALLY squeeky. Has it been cleaned and lubed yet since being sent from the factory?

    It has now. I disassembled, lubed and did some polishing with some 1000 grit. The trigger was getting stuck on the return on the last quarter inch, as well. Very slightly polished the cylinder latch, the frame where the cylinder latch protrudes, and the trigger plunger. Looks like that may have taken care of the problems. Trigger is still a little sticky at the beginning of the release, but that may be taken care of with deburring the channel for the trigger return spring.

    Overall, I'm disappointed in the quality of the two new GP100's and the apparent lack of quality control. They are not the most expensive revolvers, but they are not cheap, either.
     
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