new to adding a scope

[danielson]

The scopes I've had in the past were mounted and bore sighted from the factory. I was given an awesome scope and I got a rifle for it on the way. I googled scope mounting and it looks like its quite a process and requires some infrastructure that I don't have, so I'm hoping us defense solutions can mount it for me, if not I think bradis or bobs can. If not, I will figure out and do it myself. My problem is, after an hour of google based research, I haven't found any info on choosing bases and rings.
My rifle: savage model 11 hog hunter
My scope: leupold mark 4 m3 10x40mm lr/t

The owners manual passed off responsibility of purchasing the correct rings to "the manufacturer of your rings and bases" so I don't even know the tube diameter, or which bases to buy, or if I should get a one piece base. As much as I'd like a professional to take care of this for me, to ensure its done correctly, I'd also like to know how to do it myself. So anyone got tips, or directions for me to go to get tips? As I said, in this occasion, I will probably get a pro to do it for me, but I doubt they will have the time or ability to teach me anything about it. In steps the mighty ingo, to give me the knowledge I need. Thanks again ingo...

 

[42769vette]

If you want to bring it out i have all ring heights and bases you need. Ill mount it and teach you how to.

 

[tradertator]

Congrats, that's an awesome scope. I have quite a bit of high end glass, and it's honestly one of my favorites. It was designed for the US ARMY's M24 sniper rifle and is referred to as an "M3A". The tube is 30MM, and it has a built in 20 MOA cant so buy a flat base unless you plan on zeroing it past 300 meters or so. M3 means that the elevation adjustments are 1 MOA per click; Maybe not ideal if you're wanting to punch holes in paper from a bench, but super fast when you're shooting game (or bad guys like it was designed for).

If you're budget allows it, I'd recommend Badger Ordnance rings and zero cant 1 piece base. That's not to say you can't get by with something cheaper, I just really like their stuff. Quality is unmatched IMO, but you definitely pay for it.

 

[danielson]

Well... so far, I'm finding it hard to find a zero cant one piece base for a savage model 11. They're all 20 moa. USDS didn't have anything, or they would have mounted it for me. I've found many 30mm rings, obviously, but no luck on google or buds or amazon for the proper base. I never thought it would be this difficult to mount a frikin scope. I could have done my taxes, or brokered world peace by now. Lol

 

[natdscott]

Why do you think you need a one-piece rail in the first place?

Do you have an adjustable cheekpiece, or some other version of a raised comb on the stock? If not, a rail on that rifle is NOT going to help your ability to place good shots.

-Nate

 

[danielson]

I like the idea of having more room for positioning the scope, and the one piece picatiny rails look taller than the standard bases, and my rifle has tall iron sights, so maybe I won't have to remove them.

 

[M67]

Try EGW or Talley, maybe even one of the new Weaver Tactical rails. They should offer a 0 MOA option

This should be it, but with different receives I can't keep track of them all

http://www.egwguns.com/index.php?p=product&id=1284

 

[danielson]

I saw the weavers, but after 30 minutes of 20moa bases with general product description explaining the option for a flat base, without actually finding a zero can't base, I got pissed and backed off for a bit. Ima check that link out. Thanks.

 

[42769vette]

I will have plenty at the 1500 next week if you want to swing by the booth.

 

[danielson]

I work too much to make it to the 1500. Your website doesn't have bases on it, that I can see, and I don't see a search function.

 

[42769vette]

I work too much to make it to the 1500. Your website doesn't have bases on it, that I can see, and I don't see a search function.

I originally planed to do a website when I started my business, to be honest, it took off much faster than I planned, and I barely get through phone call's and emails, so the website got pushed to the side. Someday I hope to get it up and running, but as of today it is about 4 years out of date.

The phone, and email work great.

 

[danielson]

I decided to give it a crack myself. I decided to go with weaver base and rings, I had to go to savage to make sure its a short action, because everyone keeps saying if the model is 2 digits, its short action, and if its 3 its long. Well I looked in the manual and it says model 11/111, and everyone selling the hog Hunter says the same. I never thought to actually look on the damned barrel. I'm only guessing that the 308 is a LA, and the 223 is SA, and the manual is for both. But those are guesses. So I got a base and some extra high rings with 6 bolts in the clamps in the mail. Picked up a neat looking left handed butt pouch with shell holder as well.

So is lapping really necessary? And what's the deal with lining up the rings with special tools? If they don't line up, I'd think you got an issue with your base. Or is that mainly for when your using two piece bases? That makes sense. All I should have to do is get the eye relief set right and level the scope?

I feel like this is something I needed to know how to do correctly anyway.

Thanks everyone.

 

[oldpink]

Not trying to be insulting here, but my opinion is that you're way overthinking this whole thing.
Modern bolt action rifles that come from the factory already drilled and tapped are some of the easiest of all guns to scope.
As long as your bases and rings are high quality, lapping them is almost certainly an unnecessary step.
I've mounted scopes on over a dozen different rifles, some with one-piece bases and others with two-piece bases, and I've yet to have a problem with the alignment being off with the rings.
Just remove the plug screws filling in the drilled holes in the receiver, apply degreaser to all the mount screws and to all of the bearing surfaces and the rings, carefully attach the base, tightening each screw evenly and moderately without overdoing it.
Once your base is securely attached, take the ring caps off and set them aside, then mount the rings to their base, tightening their base clamp screws evenly until secure.
Now, carefully lay the scope on the rings, then placing your cheek exactly where you're most comfortable shooting, judiciously slide the scope fore and aft until you get the best and most natural sight picture.
Being careful not to allow the scope to shift position, very carefully place the ring clamp caps where they go and -- while ensuring that the scope's reticle is not canted -- carefully tighten all ring screws evenly.
If each side of the ring clamp top screws has two screws, tighten the screws the same number of turns in an X-shaped pattern, going from front ring to rear ring, then back to front ring and back again until all screws are snugged securely without overdoing it.
If there is only one screw per side of each ring, it's a bit easier, but you also use an X-shaped pattern, as in front left, rear right, rear left, front right.
As long as you used high quality scope mounts and did everything properly, you'll be surprised at just how close to bore sighted your scope should already be.
It's just a matter of sighting in after that.
As far as whether your Savage is a short action or long action, that's an easy answer.
.308 Winchester is considered a short action caliber.
To give you an idea of cartridge length conventions, some other short action calibers are .223 Remington, .22-250 Remington, .243 Winchester, 7mm-08 Remington, .257 Roberts, and .260 Remington.
Some long action calibers (often referred to ".30-06 length") include (of course) .30-06 Springfield, .270 Winchester, .25-06 Remington, .280 Remington, 7mm Mauser, 7mm Remington Magnum, .300 Winchester Magnum, .338 Winchester Magnum, .375 H&H Magnum, and .458 Winchester Magnum.

 

[danielson]

Cool. I do overthink. I figured it wouldn't be that difficult, but the minute you think somethings easy, and dont think it through, is usually the time you screw something up. I'm familiar with scopes, just never mounted one before, and many people make it sound difficult, maybe to get you to pay for it. Ive seen that game played many many times.

 

[seedubs1]

I FULLY disagree with this. It all depends on what you need out of your rifle. Need a moment of deer rifle at <100 yards and don't want to pay to either invest in the mounting equipment or pay someone to do it for you, then screw it, no need to mess with proper alignment, lapping, bedding your base, etc... But if you spent $1500 on your rifle, $1k on your scope, and another $300 on mounting hardware, I'd call you a fool for not properly aligning rings, lapping, etc...

I invested in a nice torque driver, lapping bars, and alignment bars. I can tell you that even with high quality rings and bases, alignment and tube contact are improved after proper installation and lapping. I run nightforce, and I can still see a difference between just slapping them on the rifle and tightening down and properly lapping and mounting the components. Until you have the bars to see alignment, you'll never understand. I'll never mount a scope without aligning and lapping again.

In addition, lapping will deburr and make your rings nice and smooth so your scope tube doesn't get mounting ring marks (or at least they're minimized).

Some manufacturers warn against lapping because some idiots go too far. Just don't over do it lapping.

As long as your bases and rings are high quality, lapping them is almost certainly an unnecessary step.
I've mounted scopes on over a dozen different rifles, some with one-piece bases and others with two-piece bases, and I've yet to have a problem with the alignment being off with the rings.

 

[seedubs1]

Also, OP, your scope is probably going to be pretty dang high in extra-high rings.....Did you do any measurements to see where the bell is going to sit compared to the barrel?

 

[tradertator]

308 is typically a short action round. There are a couple of exceptions like the Remington M24, built so at the ARMY's request in case they wanted to re-barrel them down the road in 300 Win Mag. Since that scope has a 40mm objective, go with a set of low rings. I prefer steel rings and a steel base, because they tend to flex less than an alloy set. Many of the alloy ones are great quality though, plus you can shave a little weight off the rifle going that route. I tend to not mix & match the two, but if you do, it's typically recommended to go with a steel base / alloy ring and not vice versa. If you want to have the ability to remove the scope in an emergency and use the iron sights, you can't beat Larue.

Lapping shouldn't be necessary if you buy quality rings, in fact, some manufactures warn against it. The idea behind it is to give the tube of the optic an even mating surface where it makes contact with the inner ring. Alignment bars are probably unnecessary as long as the rings aren't a dovetail / twist in type and the receiver was threaded from the factory. Just make sure the tube is sitting flush in the rings and not in a bind prior to attaching the ring tops and tightening them down. An X pattern like OldPink described is the preferred way to do it, and check each side of the ring for even spacing between the top and bottom. Torque them down to the manufactures specs (typically around 20"#'s on torx fasteners / 60"#'s on steel nuts) and use some blue Loctite in a sparing manner. A torque wrench is an awesome tool to own! But you can also use the supplied wrench, just make sure to twist with the smaller end and apply the same amount of force to each fastener. Most guys use an automotive feeler guage between the flat bottom of the scope and the base to ensure it's level, but that's not going to work if you get a 2 piece base. If you plan on doping your optic much, I'd strongly recommend a scope level that attaches to the tube, like the Accuracy First ones and leveling it per their instructions.

 

[danielson]

I went with the high rings because this is what I'm working with.

http ://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c228/danielson_zx3/posting/20150824_104237_zps6tklyx9y.jpg

I can't find any actual height data online but I've seen speculation of 1 inch to 1 1/4inch. Even with the high rings I don't think it will clear the iron sights. But if what I've read is true it's going to take at least the high rings to get the objective to clear the barrel. My primary concern is the upright portion of the sight looks removable but the base looks like it's permanently attached. so I need to at bare minimum clear the base of the rear sight. I also would like to keep the front sight out of the scopes field of view. I know it's stupid to buy a rifle with iron sights and then have to heighten the scope to clear them but the rifle was a good deal and is suppressor ready.

By the way anyone who says there's no need for computers anymore now that we have smart phones has never tried to post a picture on this website from their freaking smartphone.

 

[BE Mike]

Put the scope at the height to fit you instead of working around the rear sight, etc. Here is a link to remove the rear sight: tacticalblog » Blog Archive » Project Savage: Rear Sight Removal

 

[Hookeye]

Reg Weaver bases and Burris Signature Zee rings. Works, isn't overly expensive and requires no lapping.