So I'm new to reloading and wondering the in terms of powder between fmj and plated of the same grain. I loaded my first 100 rounds with Hornady 115grn fmj with 5.5, 5.8, and 6.0 grains of hodgon longshot c.o.a.l1.150. I had good success with this and will load more but I'm out of the fmj bullets and want to move on to the 115grn plated bullets I picked up from profire. Hodgon website doesn't specify a 115grn plated load. So am I safe to just use the same powder charge. If so will it also be safe to use with the lead 115 grn that I also have? I guess what I'm saying is do charges for a particular grn work across the board for that caliber no matter the bullet composition.
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Plated vs fmj projectiles
- Thread starter xdmdude
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Most plated bullet manufacturers say to use the cast bullet data. If you notice, the plated and cast data usually over lap. With good thick coated bullets, I am often right in the middle of the FMJ bullet data by the time I test several loads. I have seen some plated bullets that are really thin, they look like a thin layer of paint, with raw lead showing here and they. I just load them with plain cast loads.
Normally it's recommended to work up plated bullet loads using lead bullet data. You can run them a little hotter than lead bullets but you can usually find a accurate node in that ball park. I wouldn't recommend using FMJ data.
Gluemanz28
Grandmaster
My suggestion is to take a reloading class from Profire. Until then I would give them a call. They have assisted me on questions more than once.
As far as the loads go you will have to stay below the maximum velocity for plated. If you load them too hot then the plating can release from the lead core during flight. If you don't find load data available for the plated bullet you are wanting to load just stay below the middle of lead and FMJ and you should be fine. Berrys plated bullets state that you should stay below 1250 FPS.
I like the LEE modern reloading second edition manual. They have them on sale at Midway USA for $12.98
Berry's Frequently Asked Questions â?? FAQ's
Lee Modern Reloading 2nd Edition Revised Reloading Manual
Be safe and kudos to you for asking questions.
Part of what we are dealing with is that plated bullets, historically were not as widely used as we see today.
Winchester manufactured one, exactly one swaged, plated bullet style, a .38 flat nose wad cutter. It smoked like crazy because it was sprayed with wax. They shot really well at low velocities. They were unpopular and Winchester discontinued them.
The now defunct National Bullet Company in East Lake, Ohio offered their whole line with copper electroplate as an option. They still were sized with red rooster lube in the grooves. They were no cleaner than cast. I put a box of them in the freezer and cracked all the lube off. They shot much cleaner. I called the folks at National Bullet Company who said they knew the copper plated did not need lube but people expected it. He allowed me to order in advance and get mine without the red waxy lube. They were never popular.
As long as Star bullet company was bulk supplying 230 gr FMJ for 5 cents each, I saw very little need for plated bullets to save 1/2 a cent each. Of course Star is now gone too.
Give it a few more years and there will be a lot more plated data available for plated bullets, as it appears they have gained popularity and are here to stay. The interactive loading data on the Hodgdon.com website has BBRN listings for some calibers and bullet weights. I believe that means Berry's bullets round nose, which are copper plated.
Good Luck, I think you will be ok.
Winchester manufactured one, exactly one swaged, plated bullet style, a .38 flat nose wad cutter. It smoked like crazy because it was sprayed with wax. They shot really well at low velocities. They were unpopular and Winchester discontinued them.
The now defunct National Bullet Company in East Lake, Ohio offered their whole line with copper electroplate as an option. They still were sized with red rooster lube in the grooves. They were no cleaner than cast. I put a box of them in the freezer and cracked all the lube off. They shot much cleaner. I called the folks at National Bullet Company who said they knew the copper plated did not need lube but people expected it. He allowed me to order in advance and get mine without the red waxy lube. They were never popular.
As long as Star bullet company was bulk supplying 230 gr FMJ for 5 cents each, I saw very little need for plated bullets to save 1/2 a cent each. Of course Star is now gone too.
Give it a few more years and there will be a lot more plated data available for plated bullets, as it appears they have gained popularity and are here to stay. The interactive loading data on the Hodgdon.com website has BBRN listings for some calibers and bullet weights. I believe that means Berry's bullets round nose, which are copper plated.
Good Luck, I think you will be ok.
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Gluemanz28
Grandmaster
Get both. I have several of them and I always buy the yearly Hodgdon manual that comes out. I got my last one from Profire.
Yes I had planned to have more than one book even before I was unhappy with the Lyman. It has strange bullet weights I've never seen before. Like 90 grn jacketed hp, 147 grn tmj(wtf is tmj anyway), 120 grn. I've never seen these projectiles available. But it does not have standard 115 grn RN lead. It has 115grn jacketed hp however. I just don't get why it doesn't have the popular bullet weights.
tmj = total metal jacket. All the lead is always enclosed, it was mandated in the non toxic ammo. FMJ used to be open at the bottom in most brands.
I have a speer manual from the early 80's. A lot of the bullets in that have not been made in 20 years, and none of todays popular pistol powders (except bullseye and ww231) are even listed. I have a mid 90's Serria binder style manual that is better. I also have last years Hornady Manual, and it is pretty good, but does not have all possible combinations with todays products.
I have a speer manual from the early 80's. A lot of the bullets in that have not been made in 20 years, and none of todays popular pistol powders (except bullseye and ww231) are even listed. I have a mid 90's Serria binder style manual that is better. I also have last years Hornady Manual, and it is pretty good, but does not have all possible combinations with todays products.
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Gluemanz28
Grandmaster
The LEE Modern Reloading Manual Second Edition has over 20 9mm loads.
I have the LEE, Lyman 49th, Sierra, Hornady and Speer manuals. I always cross check the loads in different manuals. Typo's could mean a kaboom.
Make sure to start low and work your way up on powder charges. I will start low and increase in small tenths to just under max load for at least four different recipes if 4.0 is min and 5.0 is max (i.e. 4.2/4.4/4.6/4.8). I will do 5-10 of each and then go to the range to try them out. Start with the lowest and bench rest the pistol when testing each round group. I will keep notes on a reloading sheet that I use (Send me a PM with your email and I will send you the sheet). If using mixed range brass I will measure case length, bullet weight and weigh each power drop. OAL is also measured for each round. This is probably overkill but I want to remove all variables when developing a new load. I will then load up 50-100 and try them out. If all is good then I am ready to crank out about 5,000 before switching to a different load.
I will stop shooting the higher loads if the case or primer shows over pressure. If I see the same results for two recipes in recoil, function and accuracy I go with the lower load to save powder and put less stress on the gun.
I have the LEE, Lyman 49th, Sierra, Hornady and Speer manuals. I always cross check the loads in different manuals. Typo's could mean a kaboom.
Make sure to start low and work your way up on powder charges. I will start low and increase in small tenths to just under max load for at least four different recipes if 4.0 is min and 5.0 is max (i.e. 4.2/4.4/4.6/4.8). I will do 5-10 of each and then go to the range to try them out. Start with the lowest and bench rest the pistol when testing each round group. I will keep notes on a reloading sheet that I use (Send me a PM with your email and I will send you the sheet). If using mixed range brass I will measure case length, bullet weight and weigh each power drop. OAL is also measured for each round. This is probably overkill but I want to remove all variables when developing a new load. I will then load up 50-100 and try them out. If all is good then I am ready to crank out about 5,000 before switching to a different load.
I will stop shooting the higher loads if the case or primer shows over pressure. If I see the same results for two recipes in recoil, function and accuracy I go with the lower load to save powder and put less stress on the gun.
Robert Richardson
Master
- Jan 28, 2009
- 3,697
- 113
I load a lot of the Powerbond plated bullets and I load them the same as jacketed with no problems.
