recessed LED lights for kitchen ceiling

[2001FZ1]

I have recessed lights in my kitchen. We used to have the 65 watt incandescent bulbs. Then the electric company gave me CFLs to put in there. They OK except they taken a couple minutes to become fully bright. So I want to put LED light bulbs in there. Anyone just dropped in some LED bulbs and liked them? I'm hoping that I don't have to replace the entire fixture.
Thanks!

 

[Mr Evilwrench]

LEDs are superior operationally and value-wise, even with the wild prices. I want to find some with warmer light than the ones I've tested so far. No need to change fixtures; the lights use A sockets like the incandescents.

 

[tocaman]

Amazon.com: ecoLumia (ecoBrites) Dimmable PAR30 LED light (replacing 60w incandescent/halogen PAR30L/BR30/R30). Warm White (2700k) "Flood" Light Output in 120-degree Wide Angle Beam Spread with Built-in Diffuser: Home Improvement

We have 4 of these from ecoLumina in our kitchen. One crapped out after about 15 months, contacted the company via email and they shipped out a replacement within that day. During the email exchange, I had lamented that at the time they weren't offering a regular a19 bulb... the CS lady replied that they were working on one and offered to send me one when they were shipping. They are here now -> Amazon.com: ecoLumia OmniDirectional LED light bulb (replacing 40w incandescent bulb with 4w LEDs). Warm White (2700k, at traditional incandescent bulb Color) Clear Cover (Shatter-Resistant). NOT Dimmable model: Home Improvement They also offer ones in a frosted globe. Excellent customer service from an American company.

 

[forgop]

I'm going to order several from Home Depot. Ecosmart led 4-6 packs are in the neighborhood of 50% off. Going to replace all of my recessed can CFLs and several bathroom fixtures. I like buying discounted gift cards for additional savings. Scored nearly $300 for 20% off on eBay. I'll also get a 10% coupon available at the post office. Huge savings when I get out the door.

 

[kwatters]

Amazon.com: ecoLumia (ecoBrites) Dimmable PAR30 LED light (replacing 60w incandescent/halogen PAR30L/BR30/R30). Warm White (2700k) "Flood" Light Output in 120-degree Wide Angle Beam Spread with Built-in Diffuser: Home Improvement

We have 4 of these from ecoLumina in our kitchen. One crapped out after about 15 months, contacted the company via email and they shipped out a replacement within that day. During the email exchange, I had lamented that at the time they weren't offering a regular a19 bulb... the CS lady replied that they were working on one and offered to send me one when they were shipping. They are here now -> Amazon.com: ecoLumia OmniDirectional LED light bulb (replacing 40w incandescent bulb with 4w LEDs). Warm White (2700k, at traditional incandescent bulb Color) Clear Cover (Shatter-Resistant). NOT Dimmable model: Home Improvement They also offer ones in a frosted globe. Excellent customer service from an American company.

Thanks for the links, I was going to replace my can lights with LED's but have been holding off since they are $30+ each. At this price I may just drop the bulbs in.

 

[femurphy77]

We've tried several different brands and styles of LED lights at work and for the money we are not planning on purchasing any more. We bought them to install in areas that are difficult to access hoping that the advertised life spans would help reduce our maintenance expenses and we are spending just as much time servicing them as we were the halogens they replaced. The advertised reliability just doesn't match up with the actual life spans we are seeing. Until the prices come down considerably the return on investment just isn't there.

YMMV

 

[2001FZ1]

good info, thanks guys.

 

[remauto1187]

We've tried several different brands and styles of LED lights at work and for the money we are not planning on purchasing any more. We bought them to install in areas that are difficult to access hoping that the advertised life spans would help reduce our maintenance expenses and we are spending just as much time servicing them as we were the halogens they replaced. The advertised reliability just doesn't match up with the actual life spans we are seeing. Until the prices come down considerably the return on investment just isn't there.

YMMV

The LED's themselves will last 50-100yrs. The problem is you cant just stick 120vac to them like you can a regular light bulb. The CFL's and the LED's have a power supply in the base and that is what fails. CFL's can also fail just like a regular flourescent bulb does by "burning out" and getting the black ring of death. CFL's have a starter built into the base.

 

[femurphy77]

The LED's themselves will last 50-100yrs. The problem is you cant just stick 120vac to them like you can a regular light bulb. The CFL's and the LED's have a power supply in the base and that is what fails. CFL's can also fail just like a regular flourescent bulb does by "burning out" and getting the black ring of death. CFL's have a starter built into the base.

This is true but a VERY expensive light bulb has failed to live up to the hype.

 

[eldirector]

I have 3.5W LED "bulbs" in the recessed cans in our kitchen. They work very well. I've only lost 1 in 7 years or so. The only issue is that the "bulb" is a bit larger in diameter, and so contacts the side of the can. Doesn't harm anything, though.

 

[CountryBoy19]

Menards has a twin-pack of 65W equivalent LED bulbs for recessed lighting for $29.97. I have them in my kitchen and like them. I did a review on them here a while back.

I've only had them for a few months but they carry a 15 year warranty (assuming the company that licensed the polaroid name and is producing/marketing them stays in business).

 

[CathyInBlue]

I'm planning on replacing all of my home's lighting with LED modules, but they'll generally be composed of just LEDs plus a bit of current/voltage regulation circuitry, not these "let's just try to replace 100 year old 110VAC technology directly" edison-screw-based things. As mentioned, the LEDs are quite rugged. It's the 110VAC --> 12VDC power supplies that DFO. I'll be wiring the light switches into another electrical box behind a hidden panel. In that box will be a set of electrodes for 110VAC in and 12VDC out to plug in replaceable power supplies. Flip the switch and the ceiling doesn't start glowing uniformly? Just pop off the hidden panel, rip out the dead LED PSU and plug in a spare from the broom closet. At least, you'll never have to climb up on a ladder to reach the light-emitting device anymore.

 

[remauto1187]

I'm planning on replacing all of my home's lighting with LED modules, but they'll generally be composed of just LEDs plus a bit of current/voltage regulation circuitry, not these "let's just try to replace 100 year old 110VAC technology directly" edison-screw-based things. As mentioned, the LEDs are quite rugged. It's the 110VAC --> 12VDC power supplies that DFO. I'll be wiring the light switches into another electrical box behind a hidden panel. In that box will be a set of electrodes for 110VAC in and 12VDC out to plug in replaceable power supplies. Flip the switch and the ceiling doesn't start glowing uniformly? Just pop off the hidden panel, rip out the dead LED PSU and plug in a spare from the broom closet. At least, you'll never have to climb up on a ladder to reach the light-emitting device anymore.

Use 20A-40A diodes and they will almost never fail in your kids' lifetime. One of the biggest problems with LED technology (Other than the power supply) is the getting the reflector right so that it focuses as much of the light from LED's to where you need it instead of scattered.
That is a interesting idea you have there! I am planning on building a new house next year on my property and may incorporate it in the new house.
You better get the patent, before i do!

 

[CathyInBlue]

I hereby declare that idea to be open source.

 

[Mr Evilwrench]

Not sure there's that much to patent anyway, at least without paying an ambulance chaser to weasel something up. I could have a prototype operational next week, switch, dimmer optional, plug-in connector so it can be replaced tool-free. Just too lazy to do it. Heck, once you get something like that started, you could do LVDC next to the breaker box, distribute to the lights, and have outlets all over the house to charge phones, power laptops, etc. Make it a lot easier to use solar panels, as well.

 

[remauto1187]

Not sure there's that much to patent anyway, at least without paying an ambulance chaser to weasel something up. I could have a prototype operational next week, switch, dimmer optional, plug-in connector so it can be replaced tool-free. Just too lazy to do it. Heck, once you get something like that started, you could do LVDC next to the breaker box, distribute to the lights, and have outlets all over the house to charge phones, power laptops, etc. Make it a lot easier to use solar panels, as well.

Never filed a patent, obviously. All you need is a licensed patent lawyer to file it. You can draw it up yourself. Prototype is useless for market, If SOMEONE else own the patent.

 

[Mad Macs]

I replaced the buzzing CFLs in our can lights with CREE LED lights from Home Depot. Much nicer quality of light and they are on all the time without getting too hot. Also the price is nice on them but you can only get them through Home Depot.

 

[CathyInBlue]

Due to resistive losses, the power delivery conductors for DC still need to be kept relatively short. The only reason I'd wire my house up for DC power delivery from a centralized location would be if I had some form of RE energy that started life as DC in the first place. I am contemplating a way to switch all of my DC lighting loads over to a centralized battery bank for a form of home UPS system for lighting only in the event of a power outage such that the lighting functionality at the switch location would remain identical AC or DC, but without local power generation in the form of wind or solar, that would be pointless for the moment. Until then, the lighting power will be kept AC to the switch and then converted to DC in the room where it will be used.

I'm also a little leery of going full smart-house where the switches on the wall do nothing with regard to the lighting loads themselves, but rather just signal the central computer to actuate a relay in the equipment closet. I did dig this hack on Hack-a-Day a couple of weeks ago: Remote Servo-controlled Lightswitch. Light switch functionality remains identical, but the central controller could exert itself on your behalf if you program it to.

 

[Mr Evilwrench]

Open loops (like X10) offend me as an engineer. I'd rather keep the things simple, like having the switch/dimmer actually connected to the power module and doing the work. As an electronics guy, for example I refuse to buy a safe with anything but a totally mechanical lock. I'd have to calculate, but I'm skeptical of too much loss within the size of a house. I run all my security cameras (admittedly not much of a load) from a central supply. Might have to go with something real big, like, oh, 12 ga. This thread's gone off into the wilderness. It's all your fault.

 

[IndyBeerman]

They do make what is refereed to as instant on CFL's, full power in seconds.

LED's, until they come down in price, I'm not touching them.

I've replaced almost every bulb inside and outside with CFL's, including my outside flood's.
Nice to have more light output throughout the house using less power.

When I started using CFL's 10 years ago it was not to save electricity, it was so I could use
a high rated output bulb and not exceed the max power rating for it, even though the direct result
was less power usage and lower bills.

Someone above mentioned they had humming using CFL's, my experience of the humming is having
a non dim-able CFL in a dim-able device. My wife made the mistake of hitting the dimmer function
on our ceiling fan and it caused a humming from not only the bulbs, but the wall switch also.