recommendations for an inexpensive field dressing knife?

[9rows]

i am not a hunter and know nothing about field dressing knives.

i am going buy a field dressing knife to add to my shtf closet.

i was wondering if someone with experience in this area could suggest a relatively quality piece that is fairly inexpensive. in the $50 range if that is possible.

or perhaps i need more than one? different sizes for different types of game? maybe a skinning knife or two would be good to have as well?

any other input on the topic would be appreciated.

thanks.

mods - i wasn't sure if this should go here or in the "great outdoors" section. please move if needed.

 

[Jack Ryan]

You don't really need any kind of special knife for field dressing. I've gutted deer with a pocket knife before.

If you want a good multipurpose knife that would really be nice for field dressing and then for butchering all the way to table portions you can't hardly beat a Buck 118.

If you want to make the most in a SHTF situation from your $50 get a rapala 4 inch fillet knife Rapala Fillet Knife 4'' - BPFNF4SH1 - BoatersWorld.com and a belt axe/tomahawk with the pole from www.hbforge.com/ . The knife is easy as pie to get razor sharp, easy to clean deer guts off, and is ready to go on the butcher block when you get the quartered deer in the kitchen.

If all you have is the knife on you then it's perfect for coreing around the butt so it pulls right through the pelvic bone but if you have your tomahawk handy it is the perfect option for breaking that bone and cleans up easy. Pounds tent stakes and nails, chops fire wood, and could be used to make a bow. Tomahawks are great entertainment too all from one tool.

H.B. Forge Tomahawk

 

[jeremy]

Any of the box cutter razor blade style work great. Plus if it gets dull just change the blade.

 

[Sailor]

I use a Schrade Skinner.

Any knife will do, but I find a 3.5 inch blade is easier for me handle. Large blades can be tricky if you are not careful.

The Shrade is carbon steel, easy to sharpen.

Skinners: Imperial Schrade Old Timer, Sharpfinger, Sure Grip Handle, Leather Sheath


$21 also. And a fixed blade will be easier to clean. Fat, etc. gets into crevices. Practice now before you need to do it.

 

[42769vette]

i like my kershaw alaskian trader

 

[rhino]

A Scandinavian-style knife of some kind would be ideal for your needs, and many are very modestly priced. I would recommend a Mora like one of these:

Ragnar's Swedish Knife Catalog

Do not be swayed by the low prices. They are superior cuttring tools, very sturdy, and very light.

If you want to read more about them, go to BladeForums.com. You'll find lots of topics about Moras and other Scandinavian knives in the Wilderness & Survival Forum there.

If you want a specific model, I prefer the versions with carbon steel blades, but since this will be for your emergency gear, stainless would be better. I think this model would be perfect: http://www.ragweedforge.com/2000.jpg

$32.50 at Ragnar's. May be a little more or less elsewhere. It weighs five ounces including the sheath. It will do anything you need to do, including food prep. If you need to field dress critters with it, it's trivially easy to clean since it's not a folder and the synthetic handle is molded onto the blade. Good luck trying to break it, too!

 

[9rows]

thanks to all for the replies

i will review and consider the recommendations

i'll let you know what i end up with

thanks again

 

[slow1911s]

Any "hunting" knife should do the trick just fine. I've dressed/skinned every deer and rabbit I've ever shot with a Buck 115 fixed blade. I'd also recommend a Benchmade Rant.

 

[m_deaner]

I'd stay away from any sort of folder. I've field dressed a buck with a Buck 110 and it took a while to get all the blood and hair out of the handle. Have used a fixed blade ever since (an inexpensive Mora). I recently bought a Spyderco Mule Team in CPM-M4 and it seems like it'd make a great hunting/skinning knife. But now that I have the $ to afford such a knife I no longer have time to hunt so I doubt it'll get a workout any time soon.

 

[Performance Police Gear]

cold steel makes a knive called the ultimate hunter that makes a terriffic hunting knive

weve gutted and skinned 6 deer this past season without having to sharpen it

it retails at around 75-80 dollars

 

[nova512]

ive used a buck special for years holds one hell of an edge

 

[randyb]

I love the mora knives from sweden and you can buy a truck load of them for the price of some of the more expensive choices out there.

 

[ELMO]

There are a lot of choices for field dressing a deer. I'll give a small list of knives I have used. Buck 102
Buck 105
Buck 110 & 112
Schrade sharp finger
Gerber Gator
Frost Mora knife
I even used a Case peanut once, the list goes on and on. All these knives can be bought for under $50.00....

 

[scububbs]

Check out a brand called Rough Rider. It's a Chinese import that is actually a very high quality knife. I bought a hunter on eBay that is a copy of a Loveless blade design and it cost me $15 shipped. It's actually decent steel, and if something goes wrong with it so what? Throw it away and get another one.

 

[JByer323]

I dislike gut hooks, and personally stay clear of them.

For gutting, I use a Marble's (yeah, same company who made Winchester tang sights) Woodcraft with the stacked leather handle. It's a classic, and I love the way it feels in the hand. This is also my saddle knife.

 

[Wabatuckian]

cold steel makes a knive called the ultimate hunter that makes a terriffic hunting knive

weve gutted and skinned 6 deer this past season without having to sharpen it

it retails at around 75-80 dollars

I don't know about the Ultimate Hunter, but I have and use the Cold Steel Master Hunter and recommend it.

My cuz was a Navy SEAL back before I could drive, and he deer hunts. He keeps coming back to his service bayonet though. Says he prefers it to any other knife he's used.

I've also used the Air Force survival knife - the authentic one - and really like it. Very hard and stays sharp.

The K-Bar has a place too - it's not the hardest of steels, but in a SHTF scenario, I'd prefer it. I figure if push comes to shove, I could sharpen it on a piece of slate from the creek. I really need to get another one of these.

Josh <><

 

[jsn_mooney]

Find you someplace that sells medical supplies and get you some disposable scalpels. The ones I bought have more-less a drop point blade on them. They come individually sealed in foil packs with a plastic guard over the blade and the handles are plastic but are very sturdy. I think I bought 10 or 12 a few years back for a buck or two each, I'm down to my last 2 now. You could clean 'em up and probably use the same one twice- I usually just chuck 'em though. Talk about scary sharp! They made a believer out of me- if you think about it, that is kinda what they're designed for.

 

[DHolder]

I agree with all who suggest a fixed blade knife, they are easier to clean. My personal favorite is a Gerber, but I dont recall the name, it has about a 5'' long blade and a composite handle. The most important thing is it HOLDS an edge. Look for stainless to prevent rust, and most important, get a good stone, nothing like skinnin a deer with a dull knife and cuttin your self. (it hurts the whole time you are prossessing the meat)

 

[Richard]

I dislike gut hooks, and personally stay clear of them.

For gutting, I use a Marble's (yeah, same company who made Winchester tang sights) Woodcraft with the stacked leather handle. It's a classic, and I love the way it feels in the hand. This is also my saddle knife.

The curve of that blade looks like it's the perfect angle for processing game, I seriously got'z to have me one of these! mind if I ask where you got yours at JB?

 

[Expat]

I don't know how some people are washing their folders that they have so much trouble cleaning them. I just use hot soapy water and the brush we have at the sink. It cleans right up. The hotter the water the quicker it dries up (I wipe it off with a towel then let it sit upright to air. Then I usually oil it and put the edge back on it with the whet rock and its ready to go again.