Refinishing ARs

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  • GONZO!!!

    Marksman
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    0   0   0
    Mar 26, 2012
    261
    18
    Hi Team...

    My training partner wants to refinish his AR...is there a better paint or bluing to buy. He is considering doing it in a dark earth/black or coyote/black . Any tips?

    Thanks
     

    redneckmedic

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 100%
    16   0   0
    Jan 20, 2009
    8,429
    48
    Greenfield
    Lighting isn't that good, but this was a DIY with duracoat. Bluing is not a DIY, unless you are touching up. Bluing isn't a paint on finish, its a controlled rusting of the metal.

    2012-05-30_15-51-26_52.jpg



    Its all in the prep.
    Fully disassemble
    Scrub with dish soap fully 3 times
    Air dry
    Use acetone on metal to find oil you missed the first time
    Repeat as needed

    Paint in thin coats with airbrush
    Air dry
    Repeat
    Reassemble >24hrs later with brass tools easily
    Done
     

    GONZO!!!

    Marksman
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Mar 26, 2012
    261
    18
    Thats almost exactly what he showed me in a pic that he wants to do...thank you for the advice!
     

    lucky4034

    Master
    Rating - 100%
    13   0   0
    Jan 14, 2012
    3,789
    48
    Cerakote is one of the most durable finishes available, but its not the easiest DIY project.

    If you or your friend are handy with HLVP spray guns, I'd look into it...

    finishStrong.jpg
     

    DCM8513

    Marksman
    Rating - 93.3%
    14   1   0
    Jul 11, 2011
    299
    16
    Ive used John Norrells moly resin in the past on a few guns and had great luck with it. Very durable and a great look/finish when done right. I actually just ordered some for the receiver on my 10/22. They have all kinds of colors available. As far as equipment goes, you need a sandblaster, sand, regulated air compressor and an airbrush. I know brownells has their own version of this in a spray can that eliminates the need for an aircompressor or airbrush but i cant speak of the quality. Havent tried the others mentioned here but sounds like theyre also good options. The krylon works too for a cheap easy application if youre ok with touching up every now and again. Heres the link for moly resin if youre interested:

    John Norrell Arms - FAQ's
     

    IndyGunworks

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 100%
    25   0   0
    Feb 22, 2009
    12,832
    63
    Carthage IN
    You wont need a sand blaster to paint anodized aluminum, its perfect the way it is. If the barrel is parkerized then you wont need to blast it either. If you coating platic parts then it may need to be roughed up in a blaster w/ 80-100 grit aluminum oxide first NOT BEAD BLASTED.

    fully degrease degrease degrease. and wear latex gloves as the oil from you hands will put oil back on the part being coated

    all of this is sound advice no matter what method of refinishing you are choosing.

    ease of DIY in order for you to choose from
    Camo tape
    Krylon
    alumahyde
    Duracoat
    Moly resin
    Paying someone else
    Cerekote


    the rifle redneckmedic posted was duracoat.
     

    DCM8513

    Marksman
    Rating - 93.3%
    14   1   0
    Jul 11, 2011
    299
    16
    This may be the case as far as sand blasting for these parts, i was just following the instructions. It says for the best adhesion to sandblast. Since this is a bake on coating, you cant use it on any polymer/plastic (or things like scopes) parts that cant withstand temps i think over 350 degrees F. They do sell another product though for these parts that does not require baking but i have not used that product either. Keep in mind that im only speaking of the moly resin as this is the only product ive used.

    If you do end up needing a sandblaster for any of these coatings id recomend harbour freight. I got mine there for i think 25-30 bucks. You dont have the luxary of a cabinet but i just use it outside and it gets the job done on the cheap.




    You wont need a sand blaster to paint anodized aluminum, its perfect the way it is. If the barrel is parkerized then you wont need to blast it either. If you coating platic parts then it may need to be roughed up in a blaster w/ 80-100 grit aluminum oxide first NOT BEAD BLASTED.

    fully degrease degrease degrease. and wear latex gloves as the oil from you hands will put oil back on the part being coated

    all of this is sound advice no matter what method of refinishing you are choosing.

    ease of DIY in order for you to choose from
    Camo tape
    Krylon
    alumahyde
    Duracoat
    Moly resin
    Paying someone else
    Cerekote


    the rifle redneckmedic posted was duracoat.
     
    Last edited:

    Jarhead1775

    Marksman
    Rating - 100%
    1   0   0
    Nov 21, 2012
    155
    16
    Rushville
    If you want it CeraKoted, I know a Certified Professional Applicator in Greensburg. I have 2 firearms that were coated by him. They look great.

    He can apply nearly any pattern you are wanting with any color of CeraKote available. Very high quality components with high quality results.

    If you are interested, the applicator is Bell Precision Rifles in Greensburg

    Here is the Facebook page with some finished products
    https://www.facebook.com/bellprecisionrifles?fref=ts
    Website
    http://bellprecisionrifles.com/
    Email
    joe@bellprecisionrifles.com
     

    GONZO!!!

    Marksman
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Mar 26, 2012
    261
    18
    See, thats what makes this site so invaluable...so much info shared here!

    Thank you gentlemen
     

    Cerberus

    Master
    Rating - 100%
    2   0   0
    Sep 27, 2011
    2,359
    48
    Floyd County
    Don't get all fancy. Rattle cans from any local hardware/general merchandizing establishment can do wonders, and at the end of the day if you don't like it you can paint over it, or remove it.

    I like options.
     
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