Ruger 10/22 Sight Suggestions

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  • Wild Deuce

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    I need Ruger 10/22 aftermarket sights.

    YES ... I used the search feature. The overwhelming consensus seems to be the Tech Sights

    NO ... I don't think the Tech Sights will fit my needs.

    I am looking for aftermarket sights for my modified Ruger 10/22. In particular, I need a front sight that will fit the heavy target barrel (.920") on my rifle. I don't want to cut a dovetail in the barrel either.

    I gave some consideration to the Tech sights but I didn't care for their front sight mounting solution (TS157 .920 Barrel Dovetail Adaptor). Somehow, gluing a sight mount on the end of my target barrel doesn't seem right.

    This leaves me with limited and pricey options. I can deal with that. I just need to make the right choice.

    I think I will be limited to a Williams or Anschutz style (peep) rear sight unless I can make the Tech Sight (rear) work with whatever ends up being my front sight solution.

    My front sight mounting options seem to be limited to a Lipski Barrel Band, Front Sight Base, and Lyman Match Target Front Sight (or similar front-to-back dovetail sight). I hope I don't need the Competition Barrel Band.

    I want to avoid any drilling or cutting on the barrel or receiver but I'll keep my options open. I also want to avoid a top shelf sighting system similar to what Anschutz offers. Not to mention that it still leaves me with a front sight mounting dilemma.

    Any thoughts? suggestions? experience?

    BTW ... I intend to use this for target and match shooting out to 100 yards. No hunting or field use.
     

    redneckmedic

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    I think your missing the big picture if you think that this will be a 'target gun" for shooting match at 100yrds yet a barrel band is the best option for a front site mount. You will complete screw up your accuracy with this option. Your barrel harmonics will go out the window and you will have made a nice heavy barrel rifle almost equal to a tapered barrel. (that's an exaggeration, but you get the idea). I think that this rifle was made for a scope, but not limited. You can cut a dovetail or I've seen a heavy barrel 260 that had the barrel spun and trimmed on the end to have a front site post mount slip over and sit flush to the barrel. I don't know how that is different but I know its common. I could be wrong, but a band held by Allen screws just can't be good for consistency.
     

    Wild Deuce

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    Redneckmedic, will barrel harmonics come into play with a heavy barrel that measures 18 inches? I did plan on starting out with a floated barrel and possibly tuning it later on. Do you have any references or links on this? I would really like to learn more. Thanks.
     

    redneckmedic

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    Redneckmedic, will barrel harmonics come into play with a heavy barrel that measures 18 inches? I did plan on starting out with a floated barrel and possibly tuning it later on. Do you have any references or links on this? I would really like to learn more. Thanks.

    I by all means am not the end all on this. You should contact tophat, he is a 10/22 master. Does tons of very high level competition. Indygunworks did a range day with him where they shot tons of different types of match grade ammo and were getting mixed results, they tried using a rubber dounut and sliding it up and down the barrel to find the harmonic sweet spot, this helped some, but the best change they made was an aluminum shim (I think on the receiver by the lug) I don't remember all the details, but I can tell you that if you're going for a "target gun" every little thing you do will have a cause and affect to your rounds down range.

    Couple of good reads. HTH RNM

    https://www.indianagunowners.com/forums/accessories_and_gear/58761-barrel_de-resonators.html

    https://www.indianagunowners.com/fo...distance_with_my_10_22_range_report_pics.html
     

    Wild Deuce

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    Thanks for the info. You've piqued my curiosity now. I'll hold off on purchasing a complete iron sight set for now. I'll do some testing on my own with a scope. I'll pick up a front sight assembly and shoot some groups using the scope. I'll shoot some with a clean barrel and some with the front sight assembly mounted to see how much the accuracy is affected. Then I can decide if the pricey rear sight will be worth it or if I should just stick with a scope.

    Thanks again. :ingo:
     

    Clay

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    I think your throwing the best option out the window right from the start, especially giving the constraints of not drilling/machining the end of the barrel.
     

    Wild Deuce

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    I think your throwing the best option out the window right from the start, especially giving the constraints of not drilling/machining the end of the barrel.

    I am keeping that option open but it will be the last thing I do. It can't be undone after all. We'll see.

    I subscribe to the "one change at a time" theory as well as the "reversible changes first" theory.

    I will not be stubborn though. That's why I am asking.
     

    Clay

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    I have no personal experience with the .920 front sight from Tech Sights, but I have looked at them. If I remember right there are set screws to hold it in place, with a recommendation to use Loctite to keep it in position, correct? if so, you could use it with out the loctite, OR even if you use loctite, all it takes is a little heat to get it loose.
     

    Wild Deuce

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    I have no personal experience with the .920 front sight from Tech Sights, but I have looked at them. If I remember right there are set screws to hold it in place, with a recommendation to use Loctite to keep it in position, correct? if so, you could use it with out the loctite, OR even if you use loctite, all it takes is a little heat to get it loose.

    I was checking out their set up and it made no mention of set screws, only the Loctite. The part I disliked more than gluing the adapter in place was that it seems like the slip-on dovetail adapter would negate the effect of having a crowned barrel. At the very least it would seem to disrupt the even and equal dispersion of gases exiting the barrel. :dunno:
     

    IndyGunworks

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    OP you dont say in your profile where you are from. if close to indy i have a tech sights .920 barrel adapter not mounted to anything yet you can put your hands on if you want. i think its your best option.

    that said, RNM barrel harmonics is more a matter of obstructing the vibration of the barrel. free floating the barrel keeping it from vibrating off something (likethe stock) is whats going to inhibit accuracy. adding something to the end of the barrel MAY change accuracy slightly, but more than likely, point of impact will change but accuracy will stay the same. if your barrel is not free floated yet i would do that first. if its a big heavy barrel on a 10/22 you might have a hard time w/ the reciever supporting that much weight, but 18 inches shouldnt be the case.

    honestly if you dont want it locktighted on, why not JB weld? its a perminant attachment if it coming loose is what your worried about.

    i cannot comment on the other barrel bands you posted other than they will achive the exact same end results as the tech sights will, just for much more money and a slightly differant look.
     

    IndyGunworks

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    I by all means am not the end all on this. You should contact tophat, he is a 10/22 master. Does tons of very high level competition. Indygunworks did a range day with him where they shot tons of different types of match grade ammo and were getting mixed results, they tried using a rubber dounut and sliding it up and down the barrel to find the harmonic sweet spot, this helped some, but the best change they made was an aluminum shim (I think on the receiver by the lug) I don't remember all the details, but I can tell you that if you're going for a "target gun" every little thing you do will have a cause and affect to your rounds down range.

    Couple of good reads. HTH RNM

    https://www.indianagunowners.com/forums/accessories_and_gear/58761-barrel_de-resonators.html

    https://www.indianagunowners.com/fo...distance_with_my_10_22_range_report_pics.html


    we did experiment with the harmonic dampener. those things are best left to theory, out of the 7 guns we tried them on we got no positive or negative change. what did work (the shim) free floated the barrel.

    take a centerfire for example. you hang a suppressor off of it and your accuracy niether improves nor gets worse. it has 0 effect on harmonics. what it does change though is point of impact. it adds weight to the barrel which changes things, and it changes the location the muzzle is oriented in vibration when the bullet leaves the bore. thats why when you add a suppressor your zero typically goes down and either left or right just a tad.
     

    IndyGunworks

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    I was checking out their set up and it made no mention of set screws, only the Loctite. The part I disliked more than gluing the adapter in place was that it seems like the slip-on dovetail adapter would negate the effect of having a crowned barrel. At the very least it would seem to disrupt the even and equal dispersion of gases exiting the barrel. :dunno:

    your crown is still there. the opening of the adapter measures around .498, or it does on mine anyways. your target crown will still be in place, and working accordingly. kinda like a flash hider on an AR. if you are a good enough shooter to be able to tell the differance of how the gasses coming around your bullet changes with the addition of the tech sights adapter, then we shouldnt be having this conversation.
     

    42769vette

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    i have no first hand experiance with the sight you are talking about so ill leave that out.

    i think there is alot of mis information about barrel harmonics out there. basically you want a clear unobstructed path for the barrel to whip (lack of better words) around in while the bullet travels down the barrel. that is why you free float barrels.

    the vibration will travel from the action to the end of the barrel and back to the action until all the enegy is worked out. you want your bullet exiting the barrel as the vibration is at the action. when the vibration is at the action the crown end of the barrel is at its stillest (most consistant) point.

    when dealing with harminics on a centerfire if you do somthing to change the harmonics you may need to tweek your load a little to get the timing right. on a rimfire you may need to switch ammo since there is no load development involved. basically there is no negative effect on harmonics just effect that needs to be addressed with diffrent ammo or freefloating.

    as far as your sight you mentioned glueing it on. do they make one that threads on that you can locktite in place?
     

    Saiga223

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    You could always JB weld a front site on your bull barrel if you are looking for a permanent solution, or let a gunsmith solder one on for you. Did you put the rifle together yet? I want to see pics of it in that Hogue Stock. I personally use red dots on mine, but it would be nice to have a good set of BUIS on there.
     

    Wild Deuce

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    ... if you are a good enough shooter to be able to tell the differance of how the gasses coming around your bullet changes with the addition of the tech sights adapter, then we shouldnt be having this conversation.

    :laugh: I wish.

    Maybe I'm measuring with a micrometer something that's going to be marked with chalk and cut with an axe.
     

    top hat 45

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    my 2 cents......

    if its a target rifle why consider open sights at all. i only use red dots and scopes, possibly due to my old eyes, but try using open sights on a tiny target and the front post is as large as the x ring. and no way to get same center each shot.. makes for horrible groups.

    all of my "target" rifles i use a Harrell type tuner and a 36 power scope, and all are fully free floating barrels. trigger pull has a lot of effect on quality target shooting. as posted earlier quality ammo has a large effect on group sizes.

    i dont know how into "target" shooting you are going to get, but if its a 3x9 scope and wally world ammo you definately dont need any type of tuner. just free float barrel and fix the stock trigger and have fun.

    the targets we shoot are .090 dot shot at 25 and 50 yds. my daughter shoots free recoil and we use a 1 piece aluminum rest. the ammo comes out of texas and is eley tenex and match. gets more pricy the smaller the x-ring..

    hope this helps.......daryll
     

    Wild Deuce

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    Hmmm ....

    First off, thanks to all the responses so far. I should have done a better job of explaining where I was coming from and where I want to go.

    I was in the Marine Corps. That's where I fell in love with marksmanship. For me, it's all about the discipline needed to accomplish the shot. The position, breath control, trigger control, concentration and patience.

    Why the sights? Well, I have an AR set up for Highpower Rifle. I want to recreate as much of that experience with my 10/22. I could go a different route and get a conversion kit for the AR but that's not what I want. I want to take my 10/22 to the next level and keep the demands of open sights. I think it will make me a better shooter in the long run. I have scopes on a couple of my rifles but my heart has always been with the open sights. It has always amazed me that by adhereing to the basic principles of marksmanship, one could consistently hit a bullseye not even visible to the naked eye from 500 yards (or more) away. All you need to see is the larger piece of paper.

    I guess I've been too free with my terminology and have used words like target and match interchangeably. I forgot that there are matches where groups are measured with a micrometer. That is not what I want. I want to have a rifle with a sling (and open sights) that I can use at 100 yards whether I am standing, sitting, kneeling or prone. Will I get 1 moa or sub moa groups? I don't know. I do know that I don't plan on shooting from a rest or bench often ... if at all.

    Top Hat 45, I think you've opened my eyes to what I should reasonably expect. For now, I will proceed with my previous plan: Finish putting together what I have. Test it all with a scope. Throw on the front sight and test again with a scope to see if there are any horrendous changes and then decide on the final open sight set up ... or stay with a scope. In the meantime, I will stop sweating the small details and have fun completing this build.

    Top Hat 45, thanks for the PM. I might go ahead and give you a call still. Let me know a good time to call ... maybe this Friday?
     

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