Running New Brake Lines

[steveh_131]

Hey guys. I've got a 1997 Grand Cherokee Laredo (ZJ). The brake lines have rusted through and I'm going to work on replacing them. I wanted to get some input on this.

First of all, I don't see any preformed kits for this model. Even the dealership doesn't sell them. I'm guessing I'll have to bend and flare my own. (I do have the tools).

I saw two possible types of lines. Regular steel and then there's this copper nickel alloy that looked interesting. It's softer and more malleable (easier to install). It is also much more resistant to corrosion. It's a bit more expensive, but not too bad. Have you guys ever worked with it? Some folks say they'd never use it because they think it would break/kink, etc. easier if it sustained any damage. Some folks seem to swear by it.

What is INGO's opinion on copper-nickel alloys?

Have any of you ever done this job on a zj? How tough was it? I was tracing the passenger side front line and it seemed to go behind some weird panel on the firewall. It was pretty tough to follow, I'm really not sure where it went. The driver side has to go through some sheet metal, so I'm guessing you have to bend it some while it's in place. I don't even know where I'd get the rubber grommets that protect it as it goes through there. I wish there was a simple kit I could buy with all the fittings I'd need and such, but I can't find anything like that.

 

[halfmileharry]

I've had to replace both sides rear on my 95 and 97 Grand Cherokee Limited Jeeps.
Rust was the culprit and both had well over 200K miles.
I used the standard steel line on both. The only hassle I had was forming up around the master cylinder and getting my hands into the limited space allowed there.
I'd say use standard line for another 18 years of service. JMHO.

 

[steveh_131]

I've had to replace both sides rear on my 95 and 97 Grand Cherokee Limited Jeeps.
Rust was the culprit and both had well over 200K miles.
I used the standard steel line on both. The only hassle I had was forming up around the master cylinder and getting my hands into the limited space allowed there.
I'd say use standard line for another 18 years of service. JMHO.

Thanks for the info.

How long would you say it took you overall? Did you use a bender to form it, or do it by hand?

Also, did you buy it in sticks or in a coil?

 

[halfmileharry]

I bought the straight lines, bent by hand, and did the first lline in about an hour. The second line took all of 20 minutes. By the time I got to my '97 both sides took less than an hour start to finish.
FYI, get the rough bend on the master cylinders first so you can start the lines easier. That's where there's little room to maneuver. It's a lot easier to bend in wide open spaces.

 

[remauto1187]

Take the old line off and use it as a pattern to bend your new line.

 

[Leo]

IF you have short radius bends in tight places, you will need a GOOD bender. Not those 3.99 benders that you see in the KD tools bargin bins.

 

[steveh_131]

Thanks for all the info guys. I'm going to go with regular steel lines. This thing is already on its last leg, it will be long dead before they rust out.

I've got good benders and double flare tools.

I'll take off the lines and pattern the new ones against it. Except the one that burst, I chopped it up and crimped it a bunch of times so I could limp her back to my garage with 3 brakes. I'll have to wing it with that one.

I was considering hiring a brake shop if this was going to be a monumental task, but this sounds doable for a DIY'er such as myself.

 

[CountryBoy19]

The primary advantage to the copper nickel alloy is you bend it by hand, no need for a bender. You can bend it as you're installing it if it just needs a small tweak etc.

I've replaced several lines on my old truck and it worked excellent. Yes, it's definitely pricey, but IMHO worth every penny. There is no muss or fuss with not being able to fit the bender at the angle or getting the angles bent just right because you can tweak it by hand if you didn't get it just right before weaving it down through the engine compartment to get it in place...

ETA, no worries about kinking it as long as you're not stupid. Don't use the edge of your car door to get a tight bend radius, don't use a block of wood etc, use your hand so you can feel what it is doing and your soft flesh can cushion the line so there are no pressure points that cause it to collapse. It really is a breeze...

Also, FWIW, my truck has now had the lines on it for a couple years and no signs of rust or corrosion.

 

[Leo]

Is the copper/nickle alloy rated for the same pressure as steel lines? I know it is unsafe to use copper or brass fittings on brake lines due to their lower burst strength.

 

[scoutsniper]

Is the copper/nickle alloy rated for the same pressure as steel lines? I know it is unsafe to use copper or brass fittings on brake lines due to their lower burst strength.

Burst strength...... Giggity

 

[Bigtanker]

You can buy a 25 or 50 foot roll at advanced auto parts and cut, bend and flare everything yourself. I've done that a couple of times.

 

[steveh_131]

The primary advantage to the copper nickel alloy is you bend it by hand, no need for a bender. You can bend it as you're installing it if it just needs a small tweak etc.

I've replaced several lines on my old truck and it worked excellent. Yes, it's definitely pricey, but IMHO worth every penny. There is no muss or fuss with not being able to fit the bender at the angle or getting the angles bent just right because you can tweak it by hand if you didn't get it just right before weaving it down through the engine compartment to get it in place...

ETA, no worries about kinking it as long as you're not stupid. Don't use the edge of your car door to get a tight bend radius, don't use a block of wood etc, use your hand so you can feel what it is doing and your soft flesh can cushion the line so there are no pressure points that cause it to collapse. It really is a breeze...

Also, FWIW, my truck has now had the lines on it for a couple years and no signs of rust or corrosion.

Thanks for the info. I think if I ever do the brakes on a vehicle that I plan to keep for a long time, I'll go with copper-nickel.

You can buy a 25 or 50 foot roll at advanced auto parts and cut, bend and flare everything yourself. I've done that a couple of times.

This is actually what I ended up doing. Got a 25' roll for $25. A double flare only takes about 3-4 minutes. I've been doing most of the bending by hand even with this steel line and it's not bad.

I've only done the driver's side front so far, but I know I'll pick up speed as I get more practice at it.