S&W Model 64 Problems

[DoggyDaddy]

Check the ejector rod. I have a Model 65 that the ejector rod will come unscrewed slightly and makes it difficult for the cylinder to open. I simply screw it tighter after firing 3-4 cylinders and have no problems.

Hadn't thought of that... I'll check it tonight after work. Thanks!

 

[steif]

64

Hi,
Another area to check is the firing pin hole on the recoil shield. Where the firing pin comes through the receiver. I had a smith revolver once that someone dry fired excessively and it peened that hole out just a little bit. This looked ok when you looked at it, but when fired the peened out area would get caught in the fired primer dent and it would be very hard to turn, just like you say it's acting.
Just a thought about another thing to check.

 

[Billcurtis]

You can't hurt the gun, by WD-40 the heck out of it

WD 40 is not a good lube, once the carrier evaporates the gummy residue will lock up any close fitting parts. WD-40 is a good rust preventive, and should be used for that , but never as a lube.
Bill...

 

[DoggyDaddy]

Hi,
Another area to check is the firing pin hole on the recoil shield. Where the firing pin comes through the receiver. I had a smith revolver once that someone dry fired excessively and it peened that hole out just a little bit. This looked ok when you looked at it, but when fired the peened out area would get caught in the fired primer dent and it would be very hard to turn, just like you say it's acting.
Just a thought about another thing to check.

That makes sense as well... Going to go check a couple of the suggestions from here now.

Thanks guys, for all the responses!

 

[DoggyDaddy]

Okay, I hope these pics illustrate the problem... best I could do... In the pic with the cylinder loaded, notice how the rim of the shell just to the right of the extractor pin is just a little higher than the other shell rims? The second pic is a little less clear (empty cylinder), but I don't see anything that looks peculiar to that particular chamber/extractor part when empty... But I do think I'm on to something...

 

[Seven High]

Perhaps there is lead build up inside of the cylinder. A good scrubbing should resolve it if this is the problem.

 

[IndyGunworks]

Have you been shooting alot of .38 specials and are now trying to put in .357s? that could be a part of the problem as well.

a VERY throughough cleaning may solve your problem.

 

[DoggyDaddy]

Perhaps there is lead build up inside of the cylinder. A good scrubbing should resolve it if this is the problem.

Scrubbed out the cylinder already... I think it's something with a) the extractor "star" or b) the ammo... but WWB (although cheap) shouldn't be that far out of spec... I'm gonna figure this thing out if it kills me... or unless some of the gun gurus on here can spot an obvious cause, thus preventing my untimely demise...

 

[DoggyDaddy]

Have you been shooting alot of .38 specials and are now trying to put in .357s? that could be a part of the problem as well.

a VERY throughough cleaning may solve your problem.

No, this one isn't even rated for .357. I acquired this gun in a trade a few weeks ago, and Sunday was the first chance I'd had to shoot it.

 

[Koukalaka]

WD 40 is not a good lube, once the carrier evaporates the gummy residue will lock up any close fitting parts. WD-40 is a good rust preventive, and should be used for that , but never as a lube.
Bill...

+1. WD stands for "water displacement". It does have a lot of household uses, but the only way I use it on firearms is to actually displace water. When I clean pistol barrels (at least the ones that are completely removable from the frame), I scrub out the barrel with soap and hot water, rub them dry, then spray out the barrel with WD-40 and wipe it down in order to blast away any traces of water. After wiping, I then run patches through the barrel with actual gun oil (I like Rem Oil or Eezox) until it's completely clean and covered with a thin film of oil. I don't leave anything protected with WD-40 alone.

 

[Koukalaka]

...With respect to the binding--I had the same problem with a Ruger Security Six once. The issue was a bent ejector rod. When I opened the cylinder and gave it a spin, the rod did not spin in a nice straight line, but noticeably wobbled around. I think this probably happened from abuse--someone being careless about ejection, or banging the ejector rod against a table to force out a stuck cartridge, or maybe swinging the cylinder shut like they do on TV (don't do that!)

It might not be too terribly expensive to replace the ejector rod if this is the case.

 

[n9znd]

We was talking about some of the same problems in this thread a few days ago. See if any of this helps. Jim
https://www.indianagunowners.com/forums/handguns/176367-revolvers_suck.html

 

[DoggyDaddy]

...With respect to the binding--I had the same problem with a Ruger Security Six once. The issue was a bent ejector rod. When I opened the cylinder and gave it a spin, the rod did not spin in a nice straight line, but noticeably wobbled around. I think this probably happened from abuse--someone being careless about ejection, or banging the ejector rod against a table to force out a stuck cartridge, or maybe swinging the cylinder shut like they do on TV (don't do that!)

It might not be too terribly expensive to replace the ejector rod if this is the case.

I did check that, and the cylinder spins freely without wobble. I'm going to re-examine the ejector "star" (for lack of a better term) and maybe hit the surfaces that butt up against the rims of the shells with some 1000 grit sandpaper.

 

[DoggyDaddy]

We was talking about some of the same problems in this thread a few days ago. See if any of this helps. Jim
https://www.indianagunowners.com/forums/handguns/176367-revolvers_suck.html

Looks like a lot of good info in that thread too. I'm not sure of the terminology in some of the posts... and sorry to display my ignorance, but for instance, where exactly is the "forcing cone"? Is that the part at the rear of the frame where the cylinder locks into it? (ie. where the firing pin comes through)

 

[steif]

Looks like a lot of good info in that thread too. I'm not sure of the terminology in some of the posts... and sorry to display my ignorance, but for instance, where exactly is the "forcing cone"? Is that the part at the rear of the frame where the cylinder locks into it? (ie. where the firing pin comes through)

If I remember right, the forcing cone is the first part of the barrel, where the bullets get "forced" into the rifling when fired. The rear where the firing pin comes through is the recoil shield.

 

[n9znd]

The Forcing Cone is where the Barrel and the cylinder meet. It can be .001 of difference and the cylinder will cause binding when it touches the forcing cone. I am not sure with the naked eye if you could see if the cylinder is out enough to cause binding just by spinning it. Hold the gun up to a light so you can see the forcing cone gap between cylinder and forcing cone. Pull the hammer back and check each cylnder to see if that gap changes. You should see just a "sliver" of light on each cylinder. Mine was only hitting hard enough to clean the Black powder residue off of 2 holes on the cylinder, but was enough to cause binding. It got worse the dirtier it got. I stoned the cylinder on them 2 holes to take just a tiny bit off and it works great now. Jim

 

[Billcurtis]

+1. WD stands for "water displacement". It does have a lot of household uses, but the only way I use it on firearms is to actually displace water. When I clean pistol barrels (at least the ones that are completely removable from the frame), I scrub out the barrel with soap and hot water, rub them dry, then spray out the barrel with WD-40 and wipe it down in order to blast away any traces of water. After wiping, I then run patches through the barrel with actual gun oil (I like Rem Oil or Eezox) until it's completely clean and covered with a thin film of oil. I don't leave anything protected with WD-40 alone.

Koukalaka You are correct about the WD standing for water displacment. I read the results for the corrosion protection for this stuff 50 years ago, and at that time there was nothing that would protect bare metal better. I am sure some of the newer stuff may protect as well now, but why change. I have several firearms that I use and store all have been wiped down with wd-40 as the last step in cleaning and storing. This stuff will keep bare rifle barrels from rusting until they can be blued after polishing. I found that the treated barrels will not even take blue until it is cleaned off by boiling in lye, then boiled in clean distilled water.
I have two pistols I bought new and have been used only sparingly for over 50 years, there is not a speck of rust.
I also have seen what that stuff will do to to close fitting limit switch bushings when our maintance men sprayed it on then to (Free em up ) they were locked up like they were welded in place.
Bill...

 

[CarmelHP]

In the pic with the cylinder loaded, notice how the rim of the shell just to the right of the extractor pin is just a little higher than the other shell rims?

Yep, if any cartridge won't go all the way in, that's likely you're problem. Sounds like powder or grime buildup in that cylinder hole. Do you see any thick powder rings?

That's the forcing cone that the pad of your thumb is resting on. As for the crane, that's what holds the cylinder and pivots away from the frame for loading and unloading. An obvious indication of a sprung crane is if there is space between the frame and crane at the front when it is closed. It should be flush together with no discernible space.

 

[DoggyDaddy]

Yep, if any cartridge won't go all the way in, that's likely you're problem. Sounds like powder or grime buildup in that cylinder hole. Do you see any thick powder rings?

That's the forcing cone that the pad of your thumb is resting on. As for the crane, that's what holds the cylinder and pivots away from the frame for loading and unloading. An obvious indication of a sprung crane is if there is space between the frame and crane at the front when it is closed. It should be flush together with no discernible space.

Thanks! That clears things up (along with posts above too). I didn't notice any unusual build-up in any of the cylinder holes when I cleaned it. That pic was taken after cleaning, btw. That's what's making me think the part that the cartridge rim butts up against (the yoke?) may be the problem. I'll check the other things too (now that I know what they're called )

 

[CarmelHP]

Thanks! That clears things up (along with posts above too). I didn't notice any unusual build-up in any of the cylinder holes when I cleaned it.

It would be dirt, or the cartridge, but I've only seen that problem with reloads not factory new rounds.

That's what's making me think the part that the cartridge rim butts up against (the yoke?) may be the problem.

I think you mean what is usually called the recoil shield. If the cartridge is riding high out the back of the cylinder it will bind with the recoil shield. The recoil shield itself isn't likely the problem as that area is just very unlikely to ever incur damage. It's a problem with one of the cylinder holes not allowing a fully inserted cartridge for some reason or a damaged cartridge not seating all the way in the hole.