Scope ring lapping?

[trailrider]

I have always mounted and sighted in my own rifles. Generally just "eyeball" my scope alignment. I'm currently putting together a rifle for hunting out west. I'm using a scope with windage dots so i feel like alignment is pretty critical. Is buying an alignment/lapping kit worth it or just a "gimmick"? I'm going to use a reticle level system. Your advice is appreciated.

 

[tradertator]

I guess it mostly depends on the rings and base your using. If it's an old school Leupold style where the front dovetails in and the rear drifts left - right, I would use alignment bars. If he rings are cheap, they would likely benefit from lapping.
If its a one piece picatinny / weaver style base with good quality rings, you should be fine. Many rings will say if they would benefit from lapping or not.

I have this and it's alright for the money.
Wheeler Engineering Scope Mounting Combo Kit 1 30mm
The entire kit cost just a little more than the FAT Wrench alone, and it's worked well (with the exception of the level) on several rifles.

 

[42769vette]

I guess it mostly depends on the rings and base your using. If it's an old school Leupold style where the front dovetails in and the rear drifts left - right, I would use alignment bars. If he rings are cheap, they would likely benefit from lapping.
If its a one piece picatinny / weaver style base with good quality rings, you should be fine. Many rings will say if they would benefit from lapping or not.

I have this and it's alright for the money.
Wheeler Engineering Scope Mounting Combo Kit 1 30mm
The entire kit cost just a little more than the FAT Wrench alone, and it's worked well (with the exception of the level) on several rifles.

Great answer. A lot of the old rings/bases, as well as cheap stuff benefits from lapping. It will be detrimental to modern/quality stuff.

 

[trailrider]

Thanks for the info. I'm using 2 piece base as it is a fat magnum rd. and i want the clearance for loading/unloading. I was looking at the wheeler set. Think I'll get it. Looks like a worthy small investment.

 

[42769vette]

Fat magnum rounds work great with 1 piece bases if you get one designed for it.

 

[tradertator]

Thanks for the info. I'm using 2 piece base as it is a fat magnum rd. and i want the clearance for loading/unloading. I was looking at the wheeler set. Think I'll get it. Looks like a worthy small investment.

It's a pretty decent kit for the money, and you'll be a hero when your buddies buy a new scope. After years of over torquing screws and dealing with stripped heads, I've found that an inch / pound torque driver is a wonderful thing. Slow down, read the directions (or have a good idea what you're doing), and mount it poperly. Having even contact across where the rings meet the scope is a very good thing, as well as having the rings fastened down at the same spec front to back / left to right.

My fat fingers want to agree with you, extra clearance gained by a 2 piece base is nice. But as Allen said, there are some great 1 piece mounts out there designed for the magnum calibers, and the pro's outweigh the con's.

 

[Hookeye]

I remember about 20 yrs ago "lapping" was really a hot topic (carryover from BR to varminting, then deer).
To reduce stress in the scope many said.

On bigger kicking stuff they found (too many times) that they lapped too much and the scope slid. Sometimes leaving a much more nasty mark than had they left things alone and tolerated normal "ring marks".

To avoid the BS............I just run Weaver bases and Burris Posiline (Signature) Zee rings. The plastic inserts mean no "ring marks".

Worked in a shop, plus owned a fair number of rigs, have mounted quite a few scopes.

Have seen some odd stuff. Did get a Weaver base (2 pc set) where one was made off center.
Seen one Burris Zee ring not machined on center.
Also one Ruger factory set not machined on center.
Receivers not D&T in line with the bore, or front holes not aligned with rear............dozens of those.
Cheap rings/bases...........tons of problems (China should be nuked just for that).

Burris Signature Zee's allow for offset kit in their plastic bushings.
Can save the day if something isn't perfect.

When running standard rings I never lapped them. No problems with scopes in non lapped rings, and no major rings marks either.

The alignment gauges/rods are a great idea. Help you spot a problem before you put some $$$$ scope in and crank down the screws.
Saw a guy yrs ago, in a shop...........put the Ruger rings in the wrong spots, drop in a 6.5-20X Leupold and crank it down.......yeah, the look on his face was priceless.
Wasn't hunting season with 3 deep at the scope counter...........but he was talking to a coworker, either got distracted and oopsed, or didn't know that they varied in ring height, were for specific position.

A quick check with alignment rods would have saved that scope.

 

[trailrider]

Any suggestions on a one piece rail. Savage model 16 in 300 wsm. Burris fullfield 4.5 x 14 x 42. Already have warne steel rings but am not "married" to them.

 

[mammynun]

Any suggestions on a one piece rail. Savage model 16 in 300 wsm. Burris fullfield 4.5 x 14 x 42. Already have warne steel rings but am not "married" to them.

https://www.badgerordnance.com/product-category/scope-bases/savage/

 

[trailrider]

Fat magnum rounds work great with 1 piece bases if you get one designed for it.

By designed for it do you mean a cut out around the action? Sorry if I seem ignorant but I am when it comes to long range set ups.

 

[Hookeye]

FWIW when using standard Burris Zee rings years ago I went and filed the corners. Yeah the factory does it, but sometimes there's still a little point that could scratch the scope. Habit transferred to all rings.

 

[tradertator]

https://www.badgerordnance.com/product-category/scope-bases/savage/

This is my first choice if your budget allows it and you want the very best. If you plan to shoot long range (no reason not to in 300 WSM), the tapered bases are awesome. Most optics should have enough dope to at least run a 20 minute one, but your adjustments might not be repeatable depending on the quality of the scope. Their rings are also fantastic. Both are serialive and built out of the same block of steel for a perfect consistancy.
Lots of other great options too, but I don't know of any better than Badger.

 

[spaniel]

Whenever possible I run Burris Signature Zee rings with insters...typically use the for 10MOA offset. No need for lapping and no marks.

 

[trailrider]

You guys seem to favor the Badgers. Budget is a concern but not the only deciding factor. New thumbhole stock should be here tomorrow along with wheeler professional reticle leveling system(kinda scared to check my other rifles to see how well my eyeball method has worked in the past. I've had this rifle in stock form with a cheap scope on it for years. Pretty excited as i've wanted to upgrade it for a while. Thanks INGO for all your help!

 

[spaniel]

Burris Signature rings and never worry about it.

 

[42769vette]

Yes I mean a cut out for the action.

The fat wrench will work well for torqueing the rings, but don't think those 2 inch long levels are going to work for leveling a reticle. You can eye ball it much closer than they can get you.

The proper way to level a reticle is with a set of 5 dollar automotive feeler gauges. Small levels are a great marketing gimic, but common sense tells us a level that short wont even be remotely accurate.

 

[trailrider]

Yes I mean a cut out for the action.

The fat wrench will work well for torqueing the rings, but don't think those 2 inch long levels are going to work for leveling a reticle. You can eye ball it much closer than they can get you.

The proper way to level a reticle is with a set of 5 dollar automotive feeler gauges. Small levels are a great marketing gimic, but common sense tells us a level that short wont even be remotely accurate.

I agree. I didnt purchase the whole kit. I got the lapping/alignment kit. I lapped the rings and it took metal from the edges. I'm familiar with the feeler gauge method. The level system I ordered is the wheeler model with the barrel clamp system. Probably gimmicky as well but looked more substantial than the one that comes with the kit. Again, i'm not trying to shoot eyeballs at 1000 yds., but 14 inch vitals at 400. Thanks again for ingo help.

 

[42769vette]

Probably gimmicky as well but looked more substantial than the one that comes with the kit. Again, i'm not trying to shoot eyeballs at 1000 yds., but 14 inch vitals at 400. Thanks again for ingo help.

Stick with the feeler gauges. Even though your not shooting eyeballs, its impossible to be to precise, and the feeler gauges are cheap. Cheaper, and better is a pretty strong argument.

 

[Dr.Midnight]

I just wanted to share the expensive lesson I learned earlier today with everyone. First, I consider myself a handgun guy that dabbles in rifles. In the past, I've never bothered lapping my scope rings. I just mounted that sucker and headed out. A couple of weeks ago, I had a conversation with a serious hunter I work with, and he is a firm believer in lapping scope rings. He didn't have me 100% convinced, but I figured lapping my rings is just extra insurance against something going wrong.

I bought the wheeler kit and decided to break it in mounting an old Nikon scope I had laying around on a 10/22. Even if lapping isn't required, I figured this would give me some practice for down the road. To get right to the point, I only lapped a little, and I ended up taking too much material off. The rings simply wouldn't hold the scope in place any more. What's worse, it really marked up my scope while trying to adjust it. I shot a good set of Weaver rings straight to hell.

I think I will heed the advice given earlier in this thread. Stick with quality components and lapping shouldn't be needed. On a side note, I really like the screw driver that came with the kit. I like being able to tighten everything down evenly.

 

[Ryninger]

Stick with the feeler gauges. Even though your not shooting eyeballs, its impossible to be to precise, and the feeler gauges are cheap. Cheaper, and better is a pretty strong argument.

Going to try this on my current build when I get to that point? Whats your recommended practice for a scope on a 2pc base?