Stubborn roll pins

[TheCapulet]

I've been trying to get these roll pins out for a while now. They don't give a bit.

This one is in a shotgun who's extractor fell out for no apparent reason. When the rest of the pins are removed, the trigger guard can rotate freely within the receiver, indicating that the pin itself isn't stuck on the trigger guard part. But the pin stays stationary, no matter how much I beat on it.

And these:

I haven't tried nearly so hard to remove, just simply because I've read that they're tapering pins. And while everything that I've read says they go right to left for removal, they don't budge one bit in either direction.

Any advice on finally getting these pains removed?

 

[MtnBiker6510]

My only experience would be the tapered pins on the FSB for your AR. I used a cut down pin barely 1/2" long and then made sure I was gonna hit it in the correct direction and give it one huge whack. They take alot to budge. Once you "break" them loose they should tap the rest of the way out. If you just tap=tap like you would some looser pins you'll roll the end over and have to drill them out. Make sure you're hitting in the correct direction and then smack the "funny noun" out of it.

 

[sgreen3]

They are taperd pins. I used the smallest pin punch I had in my set. One of the front base blocks would help to hold it while your driving out the pins, but a couple well placed pieces of 1x worked for me. Just make sure to look at the pins and one side should look a little bigger if I remember correctly.

 

[Andre46996]

I have found to get the FSB pins started out the best is a large flat round piece of bar stock or a large flat punch. Normally one good whack gets them started out from there I use a pin punch.

 

[TheCapulet]

I'm actually much more interested in fixing the shotgun, since it was given to my grandfather after he got back from one of the wars, and then gifted to me a couple years ago. That thing really does seem impossible so far. I've even gone as far as using a shop press with a trimmed down punch to try to press it out, and had no luck.

As for the AR, I got one pin out so far. Sgreen's mention of a front base block sent me first to google, and then out to the garage to cut a 2x4 out to a workable shape to hold the fsb. Just need to do a bit more pounding on the other pin now, and I should have my new quad rail on finally.

 

[superjoe76]

Try vicing into place, use a punch and then use the craftsman hammer head tool to zap it out. I had a stubborn pin and this method popped it right out!

As far as the AR goes, they only go out one way. If you are trying to get them out the way the pic is, you won't. Try flipping it over and applying the same technique.

 

[tradertator]

The right tools make the job so much easier. Using a roll pin punch (http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=38883/Product/ROLL-PIN-PUNCHES) and taper pin starter punch (http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=26485/Product/TAPER-PIN-STARTER) should make short work of it. The FSB taper pins can be tough to get out. Make sure you have the end of the barrel supported well (http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=20727/Product/AR-15-FRONT-SIGHT-BENCH-BLOCK), and whack the hell out of it.

 

[IndyGunworks]

Try putting the gun on a concrete surface w/ just a piece of carpet. less give. I also use a roofing hammer and an 1/2 inch punch to get them loose.

ass for the shotgun, try applying some kroil and heat and see if that helps.

 

[TheCapulet]

The right tools make the job so much easier. Using a roll pin punch (ROLL PIN PUNCHES - Brownells) and taper pin starter punch (TAPER PIN STARTER - Brownells) should make short work of it. The FSB taper pins can be tough to get out. Make sure you have the end of the barrel supported well (AR-15 FRONT SIGHT BENCH BLOCK - Brownells), and whack the hell out of it.

As much as I'd love to, $100 bucks in tools just isn't my cup of tea for something I'd likely only ever use once or twice. : /

Try putting the gun on a concrete surface w/ just a piece of carpet. less give. I also use a roofing hammer and an 1/2 inch punch to get them loose.

ass for the shotgun, try applying some kroil and heat and see if that helps.

I may try heating it up tomorrow to see if it makes a difference. I'll update here.

 

[pftraining_in]

What make and model is the shotgun?

Are you talking about the top of the receiver or the silver dot on the lower part of the receiver?

 

[TheCapulet]

What make and model is the shotgun?

Are you talking about the top of the receiver or the silver dot on the lower part of the receiver?

The silver dot on the lower reciever. It started out blued... lol
Springfield model 67E

 

[IndyGunworks]

are you sure its a roll pin and not the end of a screw holding something INSIDE of the reciever?

have you looked at schematics?

 

[Mr. Habib]

Here is a schematic for you. From your pic it looks like it is part #44. They call it the trigger guard pin.
Here is a bigger pic.

 

[duffman0286]

Try putting the gun on a concrete surface w/ just a piece of carpet. less give. I also use a roofing hammer and an 1/2 inch punch to get them loose.

ass for the shotgun, try applying some kroil and heat and see if that helps.

+1 the proper work surface is a must and carpet would be a great protector....heat another great idea but sense this is a firearm too much is a bad thing.... id used a hair dryer or a heat gun (as long as you keep it farther away from the weapon you dont want to discolor your finish) penetrating oil is always a great method.... A rule i always follow oil first if that fails apply heat and make sure you use a proper sized roll pin punch

 

[IndyGunworks]

+1 the proper work surface is a must and carpet would be a great protector....heat another great idea but sense this is a firearm too much is a bad thing.... id used a hair dryer or a heat gun (as long as you keep it farther away from the weapon you dont want to discolor your finish) penetrating oil is always a great method.... A rule i always follow oil first if that fails apply heat and make sure you use a proper sized roll pin punch

I put a torch right to it and get it really hot. never had a problem with discoloration on parkerizing.

 

[TheCapulet]

I put a torch right to it and get it really hot. never had a problem with discoloration on parkerizing.

I'll do the same. I discolor the parkerizing every time I put a quick box of 100 through my 1911 Never stays that way. So I'm not much worried about the gas block, which I'm sure gets much hotter.

 

[duffman0286]

I put a torch right to it and get it really hot. never had a problem with discoloration on parkerizing.

For some reason i thought that was a blued finish but if its park they can take alot more heat.... but still on the reciever limit your heat there are a lot of springs you can mess up but getting them to hot

 

[TheCapulet]

Ahh, I thought we were talking about the AR. :P The shotgun is deff blued. I'll keep that in mind.

 

[TheCapulet]

4 broken punches, a totally ruined front sight block, and countless hours later, I've managed to knock only one pin loose on the front sight block. The pin in the shotgun, and the other FSB pin remain firmly in place, despite my efforts. I even tried using a shop press. The results were painful, I don't recommend anyone trying it. lol.

I'll be heading off to a friend of mine's place tomorrow, who has a well stocked shop that I can drill these pins out at. The shotgun, I'm not worried about. But with the FSB pins, will replacing them with non-tapered pins after drilling them out be a terrible thing to do?

 

[IndyGunworks]

replace them w/ the tapered pins. put them back in w/ a tad amount of anti sieze. once they are out you cannot put them back in by hand as tight as they were.

i also have NEVER had to drill one out. Heat, kroil, a steel anvil, and a roofing hammer are the farthest i have had to go.