Taper Pins in Front Sight Base won't move.

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  • louielouie

    Plinker
    Rating - 100%
    1   0   0
    Nov 22, 2009
    128
    16
    Columbus, IN.
    I have a PSA upper and decided to change out the gas block as part of a make-over.
    I got the flash hider off fairly easily, but then I ran into the 2 taper pins that hold the FSB in place.
    I ruined about 4 punches and did not even "phase" the taper pins.
    I called to verify that they should come out left to right and I was told that is correct. :n00b:

    I am ready to take it to a gunsmith, but the only gunsmith I know in Southern Indiana is Gary Growe (here in Columbus) and he is always busy.

    Can anyone point me to a gunsmith who might do these while I wait.
    I don't mind driving up to 50 miles one way, but I have a bad back and any further than that is murder.

    Thanks,
    louielouie
     

    mvician

    Master
    Rating - 100%
    9   0   0
    May 19, 2008
    2,773
    38
    NW Indiana
    Bigger hammer (2 lb.), a good solid punch, and a hard surface to support the FSB.
    As shooter521 said, some Kroil should help.
     

    louielouie

    Plinker
    Rating - 100%
    1   0   0
    Nov 22, 2009
    128
    16
    Columbus, IN.
    Have you tried heating the FSB, and/or applying a penetrating oil like Kroil to the pins?

    I tried Break-Free overnight. I have not tried heat although I could. The problem is I don't know how hard I can hit the pins and not mess up the barrel.

    I think I did move the FSB just enough to be canted.

    I ordered the "special" Brownells taper pin punch that is supposed to be made just for these pins.

    I figure when it comes I will break out my 3 pound hammer and have at it again. If I can't break them loose after a few good whacks, I am going to cut the FSB with a Dremmel until I can peel the FSB off of the barrel. :xmad:

    louielouie:popcorn:
     

    wilianknow

    Plinker
    Rating - 100%
    19   0   0
    May 29, 2012
    66
    6
    Indianapolis
    You could very careful and drill out the center of the pin. It's not a hard metal to drill. Start with a small #40 bit. Also take a small file flat the top of the pin and use a center punch and the drill it out. Just step it up until you release the pressure. Good luck and take your time.
     

    louielouie

    Plinker
    Rating - 100%
    1   0   0
    Nov 22, 2009
    128
    16
    Columbus, IN.
    Have you got an armorers block to use? The taper pins shouldn't take that much force to move... What are you supporting it with? (the FSB)

    I was supporting the FSB with the handle of a hammer (supported the FSB in the middle).

    I am getting the special Brownells taper punch in tomorrows mail.

    louielouie

    p.s. I don't think my hammer was big enough. I only had an 8 oz. brass hammer. I will have a 3 pound hammer next time.
     

    neeltburn

    Marksman
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Jan 25, 2012
    265
    16
    My Bushmaster FSP was the same way called Rainier Arms 3 times in the process but did get it off. Put the rifle on a solid surface and and supper the barrel and FSB and work back and forth between the pins and they will break free. at the time I figure I had 5000 rounds through my bushmaster.
     

    ryknoll3

    Master
    Rating - 75%
    3   1   0
    Sep 7, 2009
    2,719
    48
    You need good support for the barrel, ideally a proper armorer's block. Put it on a concrete floor. You need as solid a surface as possible. You need a good solid punch and a heavy hammer. Some of these pins are SUPER hard to get out. I had a BCM barrel that was a bear to get the pins out, and I had the proper tools. If you properly support the barrel/FSB you won't damage the barrel. A hammer handle? Don't know about that.

    Heat the FSB as well, and use some Kroil penetrating oil on the pins.
     

    DarkRose

    Master
    Rating - 100%
    11   0   0
    May 14, 2010
    2,890
    38
    Columbus, Indiana
    Mine were a little stubborn but not bad.
    I don't have a "proper" FSB Armorer's block, just one of the blue general gunsmithing blocks from Brownells, but it was solid, has holes that I can position under the pin, and a couple solid taps from a 1lb. ball pein hammer, and good to go!
    I did use something (I forget what) under the chamber end of the barrel to support and keep it level.
     

    shooter521

    Certified Glock Nut
    Rating - 100%
    17   0   0
    May 13, 2008
    19,185
    48
    Indianapolis, IN US
    I only had an 8 oz. brass hammer.


    fsb.jpg


    :laugh:
     

    louielouie

    Plinker
    Rating - 100%
    1   0   0
    Nov 22, 2009
    128
    16
    Columbus, IN.

    shooter521,

    I put down a steel block that is 2 inches thick and had space for the pins to pass through. I supported the rest of the barrel so everything was level. My work surface was the floor (hardwood floor).

    I picked up my 3 pound ball-peen hammer, and the Brownells taper punch (that arrived as I was getting ready to start).

    I put the concave shaped tip of the punch on the rear pin. 2 wacks :xmad: and the pin went flush with the FSB.

    I moved to the front pin and 3 wacks :xmad: later the pin was flush with the FSB.

    I changed over to a small punch and the pins came out almost by themselves. I re-moved the FSB from the barrel with an 8 ounce brass hammer.

    Thanks to Everyone and to all a good night (day?)

    louielouie:rockwoot:
     
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