Target ar build

[mrfjones]

I am looking to build a very accurate ar, I will scope it when I am done. I know which receivers and what barrel I am going to use. What I am looking for are suggestions on the other parts, stock, grip etc. I will be using a Loki billet upper and lower and a stainless 20 inch barrel with a surefire flash suppressor. I am leaning towards Lokis free float rifle length hand guard as well but I am open to suggestions.

Any pics of your ars will be welcome to show off what you have done to yours.

Thank you

 

[jghelton]

I have a colt hbar a3 elite with a colt 24" stainless barrel topped with a sightron sii 4-16-42 scope , this thing is a tack driver at 200yds ....check gunbroker.com for one

 

[03A3]

Mr. Jones what are the details on the barrel, including which chamber?
This type of AR is something that I know very, very little about.
I'm interested in putting together such a beast myself.
TIA.

 

[sgreen3]

Here is the one I built last month, sub MOA at 100yrds.

Specs:

ER Shaw Barrel 1:8 twist (.223/5.56)
DPMS Upper Reciver
J&T Charging Handle
J&T Bolt Carrier
Surplus Arms Lower
Spikes LPK
DPMS Panther Grip
Magpul PRS Stock
Bushnell 4x14x40
Millett Angle-Loc AR15 Rings
National Match Free Float Handgaurd

 

[Mr Evilwrench]

Gonna get into handloading as well, if you want to put them all through the same hole.

 

[sgreen3]

Gonna get into handloading as well, if you want to put them all through the same hole.

Thats a fact, gonna try an get into reloading myself for that very reason

 

[the only Qualk]

Here is the one I built last month, sub MOA at 100yrds.

Specs:

ER Shaw Barrel 1:8 twist (.223/5.56)
DPMS Upper Reciver
J&T Charging Handle
J&T Bolt Carrier
Surplus Arms Lower
Spikes LPK
DPMS Panther Grip
Magpul PRS Stock
Bushnell 4x14x40
Millett Angle-Loc AR15 Rings
National Match Free Float Handgaurd

Sorry just wondering what you mean from sub moa? And just to confirm moa is minute of angle so essentially your angle your shooting at? I know these are newbie questions so if have any sources in which I can learn these things would be greatly appreciated. Carry on.

 

[Mr Evilwrench]

MOA indeed refers to an angle. One minute of angle corresponds to approximately 1 inch of spread at 100 yards. That means that when you fire a few rounds aimed at the center of the bullseye, and they don't all go through the same hole, which you know they won't, the spread of the impacts from the center of the bullseye can be measured in "MOA". This removes the range from the specification; one MOA is 1 inch at 100 yards, 2 inches at 200 yards, etc. There are many factors that contribute to making them hit at other than the aim point.

 

[the only Qualk]

So stating sub moa just means less than a 1in spread at 100?

 

[melensdad]

So stating sub moa just means less than a 1in spread at 100?

That would be the common understanding. Here is a sub 0.5 MOA target shot at Winamac on the 200 yard line last summer.

Under 1" at 200 yards = better than 1/2 MOA.

And this is the gun, its an AR15 chambered in 6.5 Grendel:

Here is a 70 yard target in my back yard:

I strongly advise, when building a target grade AR, make sure you use a GREAT target grade trigger. This particular gun has a Timney modular trigger. I just installed and AR-Gold trigger in another of my 6.5 Grendel guns and recommend it HIGHLY, its better than the Timney and the Timney is awesome.

 

[sgreen3]

I agree a quality trigger is key, Mine could probably do a little better if I had a better trigger in it. But yes I got .941 group at 100yrds with mine. So under 1" spread at 100yrd = Sub MOA.

@Melensdad.. That Ar is sweet. How do you like the Grendal, Im guessing with groups like that pretty well. Do you re-load, isnt that ammo kinda pricy for store bought stuff?

 

[sloughfoot]

This is my 1/2 moa rifle. It is a 6MM AR cartridge. The 6.5 Grendel necked down to 6mm. I generally use 105 AMAX or 95 Sierra bullets.

It is very useful out to 600 yards. I don't own a scope so I just shoot iron sights.

 

[melensdad]

@Melensdad.. That Ar is sweet. How do you like the Grendal, Im guessing with groups like that pretty well. Do you re-load, isnt that ammo kinda pricy for store bought stuff?

I don't currently reload for the Grendel but I'm saving my brass. I have about 2000 loaded rounds so as I burn deeper into that I'll begin to replenish it with the reloads.

As for the price, it ranges between 50 cents and about $1.20 per shot, depending on the round. I'm fortunate that my guns seem to do pretty well with the cheap WOLF "gold" brass reloadable ammo. I have it in both 120 grain MTP and 123 grain Soft Point loads, it seems to group pretty well, both of the targets above were shot with Wolf ammo.

 

[teddy12b]

This is my 1/2 moa rifle. It is a 6MM AR cartridge. The 6.5 Grendel necked down to 6mm. I generally use 105 AMAX or 95 Sierra bullets.

It is very useful out to 600 yards. I don't own a scope so I just shoot iron sights.

Nice looking rifle.

 

[sgreen3]

Thats sweet to get groups like that out of cheap ammo. My best group with my AR was with 55gr PMC. I need to start re-loading also, just imagine what our rifles would do with match grade ammo

 

[Mr Evilwrench]

Damn, one hole, and not a big one. You (and your machine) rawk. Keep being awesome.

 

[mrfjones]

as for the barrel it is the one that loki uses on their match rifle and designated marksman rifle. fluted stainless with a 1 in 8 twist with a 223 wylde chamber

I do not load 223, yet but I am working on collecting enough brass to start. I have some match ammo and some polymer tipped rounds to find out what I like best before I load 1k or so.

I will look into that trigger, I was thinking the timney would be tops but I am always open. I do need a good buttstock as I picked up the pistol grip at the 1500 today. I have seen a few like the ironstone one pictured above (great looking rifle by the way) but I guess I just don't understand what all they do or why I should pick one of those above anything else.

some of this is a bit new to me. I have always been able to put holes in paper but I have never really tried to shoot for precision, just center mass multiple times on the same target.

 

[melensdad]

. . . I will look into that trigger, I was thinking the timney would be tops but I am always open. . .

I have a Timney and an AR-Gold.

While its expensive, I honestly believe the AR-Gold is worth its weight in gold. Its really amazingly crisp and clean and the reset is the shortest of any trigger I've tried. Timney is good. AR-Gold is better. Both are a vast improvement over 90% of the triggers on the market today.


AR-Gold website: American Trigger Corporation

Timney website: AR-15 Competition

 

[sgreen3]

Melensdad what weight of pull are your triggers?

 

[melensdad]

The Timney is 4# but I'm not sure what the AR-Gold is, I think its about the same.

Trigger pull weight is only PART of the issue that makes a good trigger. If your goal is to only get the lightest trigger pull then you will be missing the point (and the target). It makes up for a lot of sins in the trigger, and it is important to a point, but its not the Holy Grail.

Take up, crispness of break, over travel and reset also play into the equation of what makes a good trigger. One of the things that AR-Gold did with their trigger system was they totally redesigned the fire control mechanism of the AR-15. All the other triggers, whether they are Timney, Jewell, Gissel, JP or any other brands basically used the existing AR15 mechanism, modernized or tuned it, but none of them reinvented it so all have somewhat similar characteristics which the AR-Gold does not have. Its easier to try them side-by-side than to explain it.