Well I took my new 738 apart and was pleasantly surprised. None of the burrs, dings or issues that Backfire had. Some tool marks to clean up of course, and the trigger bar being a stamped part needed some polish, but nothing major. My biggest problem was I didn't realize the back pin only held the sear and spring. I assumed it was part of the trigger group assembly. Sproing!! That took some work to get back together.
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Taurus TCP-738 .380 random jamming fix.. (pics)
- Thread starter backfire
- Start date
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It's good to hear the innards of your gun were better than average, as it seems as if Taurus has cleaned up their manufacturing/machining practices to make for a better gun out of the box.
I also heard that distinct "sproing" sound when I first popped mine apart too! It's kind of a sick feeling to hear that noise, see parts fall out on the table and not see where they came from or know where they go! LoL
Happy shooting!
I also heard that distinct "sproing" sound when I first popped mine apart too! It's kind of a sick feeling to hear that noise, see parts fall out on the table and not see where they came from or know where they go! LoL
Happy shooting!
Hello all! This thread has been a life-saver. I'm struggling with re-assembling my 738 after replacing a broken magazine release, and I was hoping to get a little guidance from those who have done this before!
Looking down the length of the frame, barrel pointed away from you:
1. The coil of the sear spring is on the left side of the sear?
2. The 90-degree bend on the sear spring is inserted left-to-right into the smallest hole on the sear?
3. The sear pin is inserted through BOTH the coil of the sear spring and the larger of the holes in the sear?
4. The crux of the problem: where does the long end of the sear spring go? Pointed down, along the rear of the magazine bay? Along the top, pointed back toward the user? It sounds like the sear spring has to be pre-loaded; how did you accomplish this?
5. With a needle inserted through the utility hole on the right side of the frame, the sear should be forward of the needle? In other words, the sear is rotated forward and held in place, and removing the utility needle will allow the sear to spring backward until it rests on the rear of the frame?
If I can answer any more questions that would allow you to answer my questions, please let me know! Thanks so much for your help!
- ufdigga
Looking down the length of the frame, barrel pointed away from you:
1. The coil of the sear spring is on the left side of the sear?
2. The 90-degree bend on the sear spring is inserted left-to-right into the smallest hole on the sear?
3. The sear pin is inserted through BOTH the coil of the sear spring and the larger of the holes in the sear?
4. The crux of the problem: where does the long end of the sear spring go? Pointed down, along the rear of the magazine bay? Along the top, pointed back toward the user? It sounds like the sear spring has to be pre-loaded; how did you accomplish this?
5. With a needle inserted through the utility hole on the right side of the frame, the sear should be forward of the needle? In other words, the sear is rotated forward and held in place, and removing the utility needle will allow the sear to spring backward until it rests on the rear of the frame?
If I can answer any more questions that would allow you to answer my questions, please let me know! Thanks so much for your help!
- ufdigga
You guys are good! After 2-3 hours of difficulty and frustation, all I had to do was ASK THE QUESTION, and the solution presented itself. For anyone who has the same problems in the future, I'll answer my own questions. Again, left/right/forward/back assumes that the user is looking down on the frame with the barrel-end pointed AWAY from the user.
Question 1. The coil of the sear spring is on the left side of the sear? YES.
Question 2. The 90-degree bend on the sear spring is inserted left-to-right into the smallest hole on the sear? YES.
Question 3. The sear pin is inserted through BOTH the coil of the sear spring and the larger of the holes in the sear? YES.
Question 4. The crux of the problem: where does the long end of the sear spring go? Pointed down, along the rear of the magazine bay? Along the top, pointed back toward the user? It sounds like the sear spring has to be pre-loaded; how did you accomplish this? DOWN THE MAGAZINE WELL.
MY METHOD FOR SEATING THE SEAR SPRING: (1) Insert the sear pin left-to-right into the grip, driving it about 2/3rds of the way through the magazine well, and leaving just enough space that the sear can still be slid between the tip of the pin and the right side of the mag well. (2) With needle-nose pliers, compress the coil of the spring laterally, and insert the spring onto the pin with the long end oriented down the mag well. The short/bent end of the pin should be slightly compressed and resting against the back of the frame. (3) Insert a small standard screwdriver up through the mag well, and use it to simultaneously lift the bent end of the pin (about 1/8" off of the polymer grip) and push it toward the left side of the mag well. Hold this screwdriver in place with one hand. (4) With your other hand, grasp the bottom of the sear with pliers, and insert it tip-first into the top of the mag well. Make sure you have the sear oriented correctly! (the highest point on the sear should be oriented toward the center of the grip; refer to the Taurus exploded view on p. 26 of your manual). Seat the spring's bent end into the small hole of the sear. Don't worry about getting the sear onto the pin yet. (5) With the sear in the proper orientation, and the tip of the spring inserted into the sear, it is pretty simple to push the sear down onto the sear pin. The pressure of the spring should hold it in place. If it doesn't, you can insert your small screwdriver between the right edge of the mag well and the sear, and compress the sear and the spring right-to-left to hold it stable on the sear pin. (6) Drive the rest of the sear pin through to the right side of the grip. You're done!
Question 5. With a needle inserted through the utility hole on the right side of the frame, the sear should be forward of the needle? In other words, the sear is rotated forward and held in place, and removing the utility needle will allow the sear to spring backward until it rests on the rear of the frame? YES.
(1) Make sure that the hammer is moved forward as you insert the frame assembly into the grip. (2) Using your utility needle, push the sear forward as much as comfortable, and then settle the frame assembly down on top of and behind the sear. (3) You should then be able to remove the utility needle and settle the frame assembly down into its proper position.
I hope this helps! Thanks to backfire and the others for this thread!
- ufdigga
Question 1. The coil of the sear spring is on the left side of the sear? YES.
Question 2. The 90-degree bend on the sear spring is inserted left-to-right into the smallest hole on the sear? YES.
Question 3. The sear pin is inserted through BOTH the coil of the sear spring and the larger of the holes in the sear? YES.
Question 4. The crux of the problem: where does the long end of the sear spring go? Pointed down, along the rear of the magazine bay? Along the top, pointed back toward the user? It sounds like the sear spring has to be pre-loaded; how did you accomplish this? DOWN THE MAGAZINE WELL.
MY METHOD FOR SEATING THE SEAR SPRING: (1) Insert the sear pin left-to-right into the grip, driving it about 2/3rds of the way through the magazine well, and leaving just enough space that the sear can still be slid between the tip of the pin and the right side of the mag well. (2) With needle-nose pliers, compress the coil of the spring laterally, and insert the spring onto the pin with the long end oriented down the mag well. The short/bent end of the pin should be slightly compressed and resting against the back of the frame. (3) Insert a small standard screwdriver up through the mag well, and use it to simultaneously lift the bent end of the pin (about 1/8" off of the polymer grip) and push it toward the left side of the mag well. Hold this screwdriver in place with one hand. (4) With your other hand, grasp the bottom of the sear with pliers, and insert it tip-first into the top of the mag well. Make sure you have the sear oriented correctly! (the highest point on the sear should be oriented toward the center of the grip; refer to the Taurus exploded view on p. 26 of your manual). Seat the spring's bent end into the small hole of the sear. Don't worry about getting the sear onto the pin yet. (5) With the sear in the proper orientation, and the tip of the spring inserted into the sear, it is pretty simple to push the sear down onto the sear pin. The pressure of the spring should hold it in place. If it doesn't, you can insert your small screwdriver between the right edge of the mag well and the sear, and compress the sear and the spring right-to-left to hold it stable on the sear pin. (6) Drive the rest of the sear pin through to the right side of the grip. You're done!
Question 5. With a needle inserted through the utility hole on the right side of the frame, the sear should be forward of the needle? In other words, the sear is rotated forward and held in place, and removing the utility needle will allow the sear to spring backward until it rests on the rear of the frame? YES.
(1) Make sure that the hammer is moved forward as you insert the frame assembly into the grip. (2) Using your utility needle, push the sear forward as much as comfortable, and then settle the frame assembly down on top of and behind the sear. (3) You should then be able to remove the utility needle and settle the frame assembly down into its proper position.
I hope this helps! Thanks to backfire and the others for this thread!
- ufdigga
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Congrats for a very detailed description. If one goes to this link one will find additional information regarding tweaking the TCP 738
The 700's then look for post
Brand New just out of the box TCP-738, and the dang thing jams in this heading about three post down you will find :TCP 738 reliability enhancements it has some photos and some solutions for jamming also.
The 700's then look for post
And, finally, let me make this explicit. It should have been clear to me before I started, since I had reviewed this thread and others. But I still made the mistake. So...
NOTE BEFORE DISASSEMBLING YOUR TCP-738: you DO NOT have to remove the rear pin to remove the frame from the grip! The metal frame assembly is held in the polymer grip with (1) the front frame pin and (2) the permanent pin that you can see above the beaver-tail on the right side of the grip. The front pin goes THROUGH the frame, but the rear pin does not. The permanent pin slips above a notch on the back of the frame. You only need to remove the rear sear pin if you need to remove the sear and/or sear spring!
NOTE BEFORE DISASSEMBLING YOUR TCP-738: you DO NOT have to remove the rear pin to remove the frame from the grip! The metal frame assembly is held in the polymer grip with (1) the front frame pin and (2) the permanent pin that you can see above the beaver-tail on the right side of the grip. The front pin goes THROUGH the frame, but the rear pin does not. The permanent pin slips above a notch on the back of the frame. You only need to remove the rear sear pin if you need to remove the sear and/or sear spring!
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