The Official 3d Printing thread

[1911ly]

I started buying parts for another printer build. We were going to do a Delta build next but my son wants us to do an SLA instead. It is going to take a while for the parts to show. Most of the important stuff is on a slow boat from China.

I have been looking at different designs. I am going to try to use a modified LCD display as the shutter with UV LED's under it. The I have the display modified. It will use a Raspberry Pi3. Ramps 1.4 and a NanoDLP board. I will start working on it when the NanoDPL board comes in.

If anyone has a SLA printer I have a lot of questions?

Larry

 

[1911ly]

Larry you can do this for the love of God!

[video=youtube_share;QF756oro7oU]https://youtu.be/QF756oro7oU[/video]

I ordered that same stock. I have another 10-22 receiver on the plater. I will take a closer look at that adapter in the next few days. The print cam is running and will be all night and in to the morning. Check it out if you want.


@ http://w9amr.com:5002

 

[Sailor]

Coming along nicely. Reminds me I Have a BL touch I never installed lol. But I have not leveled my printer in months, its holding level fine.

 

[1911ly]

Coming along nicely. Reminds me I Have a BL touch I never installed lol. But I have not leveled my printer in months, its holding level fine.

If you don't move it and it is on a solid base they seem to hold there level really well. My son moves his to use it. At least once a week it would need to be leveled.

The BLtouch probes are awesome. I have only have to adjust it when I change a nozzle. And to do that is on the menu.

 

[1911ly]

The receiver came out ok. It fits the stock perfect. I put text on the side of this one. I need to move the text up a little higher on the next one. It barely clears the stock. Oh well. I am learning as i go. I have some more fitment to do. I will try to get it done tomorrow if I have some time.

 

[Sailor]

Looks great, finally ordered a 10 inch threaded barrel bolt, and the entire BX trigger group even though I printed the housing I could not really find all the parts needed easily. Now I am having trouble just finding a charger stock.

 

[1911ly]

Looks great, finally ordered a 10 inch threaded barrel bolt, and the entire BX trigger group even though I printed the housing I could not really find all the parts needed easily. Now I am having trouble just finding a charger stock.

How brave are you? I have a Charger stock design I have been working on. It is a total redesign of one in the Pack that had been floating around. I have not printed it yet. It should fit the bed of your Pegasus if you rotate it 45 degrees and center it.

It was originally a AR-15 style stock. It has been shortened and blended together. The butt stock hole is eliminated. I also blended the hand grip in to the receiver.

I'll send you the file if you want it.

I bought one of these to play with. I haven't use it yet. I think this is the one you wanted a butt stock adapter made for? I will do that soon.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BlackHawk-...akHiw:sc:USPSFirstClass!46628!US!-1:rk:2:pf:0

 

[Sailor]

Shoot me that file I will look at it. I thought the stock, charger stock was the one they used for that adapter it has a top section that comes off with a screw and the adapter screws on.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ruger-10-2...=item4b50fbf661:g:tWsAAOSwMv5bZiDf:rk:11:pf:0

 

[1911ly]

Shoot me that file I will look at it. I thought the stock, charger stock was the one they used for that adapter it has a top section that comes off with a screw and the adapter screws on.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ruger-10-2...=item4b50fbf661:g:tWsAAOSwMv5bZiDf:rk:11:pf:0

I will have to get the package out and look at it. I probably bought the wrong one, if it is I will just have to build another charger :-)

I will send you that file shortly. If you spot something that needs changed let me know.

 

[Gabriel]

Well, this thread has gotten way more in depth and complicated (making circuit boards is out of my realm) than when I last looked at it about 200 pages ago.

I was considering getting a printer "for the kids" for Christmas, but don't really know where to start. I will say that I don't know anything about the modeling software or any of that stuff, but want to learn. I have some ideas of things to build that would require me to figure it out (more product related prototyping, but nothing super complicated). I was also inspired by the 10-22 receiver posts (although I'd wait a long time before attempting anything like that).

I don't mind building a printer from a kit, but want something the kids could either help with (they are young) or use with supervision until their knowledge surpasses mine. My budget would be under a grand for something decent and up-gradable. I didn't want to start a new thread on it, since this one seems like a discussion on all things D printer related already.

I'm also not opposed to buying an inexpensive beginner printer just to get used to the basics before getting something more complicated, but I usually don't like wasting money on a basic item if I already know I'll be buying a second that would meet my wants better.

 

[1911ly]

Well, this thread has gotten way more in depth and complicated (making circuit boards is out of my realm) than when I last looked at it about 200 pages ago.

I was considering getting a printer "for the kids" for Christmas, but don't really know where to start. I will say that I don't know anything about the modeling software or any of that stuff, but want to learn. I have some ideas of things to build that would require me to figure it out (more product related prototyping, but nothing super complicated). I was also inspired by the 10-22 receiver posts (although I'd wait a long time before attempting anything like that).

I don't mind building a printer from a kit, but want something the kids could either help with (they are young) or use with supervision until their knowledge surpasses mine. My budget would be under a grand for something decent and up-gradable. I didn't want to start a new thread on it, since this one seems like a discussion on all things D printer related already.

I'm also not opposed to buying an inexpensive beginner printer just to get used to the basics before getting something more complicated, but I usually don't like wasting money on a basic item if I already know I'll be buying a second that wold meet my wants better.

Tinkercad. com is a great place to start with cad. I still do most of my modeling with it. It is pretty simple. kind of like legos. There are a lot of YouTube instructional video's. If you need help with something most of us can help you.

Robby has a couple Ender2's. That is a smaller printer. 8x8x8 I think? And I think the best deal for the money is the Creality 10. Robby has one of those too.

The $200 acrylic framed printers are really basic and by the time you buy the stuff to make it work you could have bought an Ender2.

My first printer was the Makerfarm i3v kit. Then I help a buddy build his Makerfarm Pegasus. Those are great kits. And the tech support is amazing from them. They are expensive though. My personal printer is homebrew. Sort of a Makerfarm Pegasus on steroids. I have had a blast with it. But I have a fair amount of money in it. If the Ender2 and Creality 10's were on the market when I built mine I would have went that route.

 

[Gabriel]

Thanks! I'll look into the Tinkercad tonight. The Ender2 or Ender3 are a lot less expensive than I was thinking, so one of those would probably be good while I figure out what I'm doing.

 

[RobbyMaQ]

Thanks! I'll look into the Tinkercad tonight. The Ender2 or Ender3 are a lot less expensive than I was thinking, so one of those would probably be good while I figure out what I'm doing.

The ender 2 is a great little kit. prints great out of the box. i run two of them, and am currently watching for closeouts to grab a couple more. they are work horses, take up very little footprint, and are easy to work on, move, etc without worry. It'll print damn near any filament without upgrades (including tpu with stock extruder), and heats up super quick.

While all creality printers use the same hardware, hotends, etc... some added features appear in newer offerings such as the ender 3.
The ender 3 is priced the same as the ender 2, but I think they've taken some shortcuts and gotten cheaper with the ender 3. While it can be a decent machine, you kind of want to know what you are doing to sort the issues out. Some guys get ender 3's and have no issues. Others get them and seem to run into extrusion issues.

I highly recommend watching any of Nery's videos (youtube) re: the enders assembly and such... he knows his stuff, and is the only one who seems to be able to get creality machines up and running compared to Joel and Angus.

The ender 2 is a hard sell to a noob because they see the same price for a larger build volume and extra features on the ender 3. But I still recommend the ender 2 to noobs because it teaches them the basics of building a 'kit' (I use this loosely because it's not like other kits where you build EVERYTHING) and because it get's you printing out of the box without issues... this allows someone to focus on learning the art of printing (vs the art of tweaking a printer to make it print better).
And the printer, despite it's small size, will continue to stay in your stable of printers when you decide to look into other printers to suit your needs.

Seriously, I do about 80% of my printing on the ender 2's vs the cr-10s4's large 400x400 printers. To the point that I actually gave one of my cr-10s4's away.

 

[Gabriel]

Thanks for the info. Honestly, I just saw the full frame of the ender3 vs the one upright of the Ender2 and assumed (incorrectly) the 3 would be better. I was wondering why the price was actually a bit less for the 3, but now I know. The print size of the 2 should be enough for learning with and most things I'd want to print.

 

[Sailor]

Just bought some 3dGloop, glue, smoother etc. Videos are impressive. Your PLA layers will fail before the bond breaks.

Should be here next week.

 

[RobbyMaQ]

Just bought some 3dGloop, glue, smoother etc. Videos are impressive. Your PLA layers will fail before the bond breaks.

Should be here next week.

Yeah I saw the stuff at ERRF and mistakenly thought it was for abs only. Otherwise I would have picked some up.
I don't believe you get any white residue like you get with superglue on pla

 

[Sailor]

Question for the tinkercad experts. I suck at tinkercad, here is a triangle shaped dovetail puzzle off thingverse. I want to make it a locking harder puzzle. My idea is to put some small holes in the top and bottom pieces with floating rods in them. The puzzle would have to be laying flat on the correct side and the rod would drop. It would also have to be spun on that side to cause the side rods to move out to the exterior. Then it could be twisted off. The hard part is done the model is made for me. How in the heck do I line up all these holes on both pieces so that they will fit the small rods perfectly. If it involves math I am out.

 

[Sailor]

Project link. https://www.tinkercad.com/things/l8...=FR4K-6z31EUbCwnDSTnY8zgoqz0_uW2ncamJdw9Pzp4=

 

[1911ly]

Question for the tinkercad experts. I suck at tinkercad, here is a triangle shaped dovetail puzzle off thingverse. I want to make it a locking harder puzzle. My idea is to put some small holes in the top and bottom pieces with floating rods in them. The puzzle would have to be laying flat on the correct side and the rod would drop. It would also have to be spun on that side to cause the side rods to move out to the exterior. Then it could be twisted off. The hard part is done the model is made for me. How in the heck do I line up all these holes on both pieces so that they will fit the small rods perfectly. If it involves math I am out.

Easy peasy to make holes that line up. Make to rods the diameter you want. Raise one (or lower one) above the or below the work plane. You want to be able to grap it without touching the other. Then align the part X and Y. There is a align tab on the tool bar. Now group them.

Next align puzzle pieces X and Y. and in the correct orientation. Grab the top piece and raise it on the Z axis so there is plenty of room between them. Next move the grouped pins in to your puzzle. Put the pin where you want it. Ungroup your pins and grab the top pin and drag it up in to the top puzzle piece. Make sure there is enough room between the parts. Then tilt the work plane to an angle so you can select both puzzle pieces "one at a time". Group the top pin and puzzle piece. then group the bottom parts. Now you can move the parts separately and keep the pins aligned in the part.

Once you have them separated you can un group them and move the pin on the Z axis to the height you want. Just don't move any of the parts on the X and Y. Everything will stay aligned. If you can't get figured out from this info I can go over it on the ph with you or in a shared project. NP. Message or email me with a ph# and a good time to call.

 

[1911ly]

Project link. https://www.tinkercad.com/things/l8...=FR4K-6z31EUbCwnDSTnY8zgoqz0_uW2ncamJdw9Pzp4=

I am playing with your project link at the moment..