No, I have the cheapest thing they make.
I use them too.
They are a hell of a lot cheaper!
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The Official 3d Printing thread
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I use them too.
They are a hell of a lot cheaper!
https://www.indianagunowners.com/forums/break-room/462230-3d-printers.html#post7750754
Someone asking about 3d
Someone asking about 3d
Well my prints suck. I think the belts are loose giving too much lateral play. I don't know if I have enough belt to attach one of those tensioners. So I tighten up the z belt by rotating the stepper out a bit. I start printing to test it, and the printer shuts off.
The NTC 5D-15 thermistor blew in the power supply. Where the heck do I get one of those west of china? I may just buy a new pws, or maybe jump a computer pws for the time being.
The NTC 5D-15 thermistor blew in the power supply. Where the heck do I get one of those west of china? I may just buy a new pws, or maybe jump a computer pws for the time being.
The OE power supply on the Anet is a weak spot. It was the first thing I upgraded. I use the one I took out for bench projects that don't require much load. I would recommend you upgrading power supply and installing a MOFSET for the heatbed as well as soldering the power wires directly to the heat bed. Use good quality silicone wires for the heatbed because they flex a lot. Better than the plastic insulated wires.
There is (or used to be) a great support group for the Anet on FB. I haven't visited it in over a year though and things could have changed.
Any questions just ask.
Best of luck.
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Thanks.
I ended up chopping up an old computer psu and jumping it with a paperclip. I may buy the part or just keep it as is.
I downloaded cura 3.2.1. Still seeing crappy prints. I thought it was retraction, but on a temperature tower there isn't much retraction. I may be under extruding.
The problem I found with the heat bed was that all of the beds that were shipping were too high in resistance. I ended up stacking two of them wired in parallel to get enough current through them to heat quickly.
Unfortunately I don't FB. INGO is my jam.
I ended up chopping up an old computer psu and jumping it with a paperclip. I may buy the part or just keep it as is.
I downloaded cura 3.2.1. Still seeing crappy prints. I thought it was retraction, but on a temperature tower there isn't much retraction. I may be under extruding.
The problem I found with the heat bed was that all of the beds that were shipping were too high in resistance. I ended up stacking two of them wired in parallel to get enough current through them to heat quickly.
Unfortunately I don't FB. INGO is my jam.
FB Support groups work well because you can post pics and get feedback quickly and easily.
There's lots that can go into a decent print. But assuming all hardware is up to snuff, make sure you're calibrated on esteps for extrusion. XY&Z steps for dimensional accuracy later when that becomes important. My experience belts only need to be tight enough to not slip...
There's lots that can go into a decent print. But assuming all hardware is up to snuff, make sure you're calibrated on esteps for extrusion. XY&Z steps for dimensional accuracy later when that becomes important. My experience belts only need to be tight enough to not slip...
So I'm not sure what the correction matrix table is but I figured out you can get the printer to return the bed topology as-measured (G29 T rather than just G29 to ABL) and it does vary/is working. Fiddled around more and adjusted the BLT vs nozzle height variable till it started printing decent.
The "different bed surfaces" I mentioned was going from the makerfarm build surface on the heater PCB to PEI on the PCB to PEI on glass on the PCB (due to the PCB's flexibility). Also bumped up the heat since I put a layer of glass between the heater PCB and print surface which did wonders.
I'm printing PETG on a sheet of PEI stuck to glass stuck to the heat bed PCB. 240c nozzle, 80c bed (was 40c without the glass... thermister's on the bottom of the heater PCB under insulation)
Yep, ABS for the 10/22 receiver warped quite a bit, PETG warps a lot less but it's still there. yes I know it'd be better in a box, boxing it scares me with the PETG because it's already gloopy, stringy, and oozes out after extrusion stops.
The "different bed surfaces" I mentioned was going from the makerfarm build surface on the heater PCB to PEI on the PCB to PEI on glass on the PCB (due to the PCB's flexibility). Also bumped up the heat since I put a layer of glass between the heater PCB and print surface which did wonders.
I'm printing PETG on a sheet of PEI stuck to glass stuck to the heat bed PCB. 240c nozzle, 80c bed (was 40c without the glass... thermister's on the bottom of the heater PCB under insulation)
Yep, ABS for the 10/22 receiver warped quite a bit, PETG warps a lot less but it's still there. yes I know it'd be better in a box, boxing it scares me with the PETG because it's already gloopy, stringy, and oozes out after extrusion stops.
I have done several (5) 10-22 receivers in PLA. They have held up great. I use a bolt buffer pin and have not seen any damage to the receiver. The PLA threads easy. ABS is soft and plugs up the tap. I haven;t threaded PETG yet.
What is your fear about enclosing the printer? The nozzle/bed combo do not get hot enough to set fire to the media. Your Pegasus firmware has an over temp under temp shutdown. Not much of a chance of a runaway.
What is your fear about enclosing the printer? The nozzle/bed combo do not get hot enough to set fire to the media. Your Pegasus firmware has an over temp under temp shutdown. Not much of a chance of a runaway.
ENDER 2 upgrades for Gabriel
After building two more ender two's last week, I came up with a list of upgrades That I found myself adding (having used them all on my existing ender 2s)... none are critical, but many will help improve quality and consistency... So you may wish to add these as you see fit/need in the future once you get the hang of printing. I've tried a bunch, but these items listed below have been proven over time. Listed in order of preference below
1) Pneumatic fittings. Stock suck. Brass and blue are ok. The chrome & black tend to have the most gripping power. I highly recommend making a mark or putting a piece of tape near each end of your ptfe tubing (near each fitting). This way you can easily see if your ptfe tube is slipping during retractions. M6 for the extruder side, m10 for the hot end side.
They can be found on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IB81IHG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 & https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Threa...44567652&sr=1-6&keywords=m6+pneumatic+fitting
1A) Clips for above fittings. You can use the handles off binder clips (small-medium). Or you can purchase hillman clips from lowes (if I recall they were the .062 x 19/32"). I've not had much luck printing any clips that lasted any length of time
2) Bed Springs. The stock bed springs are far to lightweight, allowing bed level to go off easily. I rarely need to relevel when using these inexpensive springs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013G5I4US/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3) Extruder. The stock extruder is fine and will work with tpu easily... The problem, is that it's plastic, and over time can crack where the pneumatic fitting screws in, or lots of printing will slowly wear a groove in the entry hole side. This aluminum one is a cheap and heavy duty alternative: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079JZ374W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
4) Micro SD card extension. The micro SD slot is tough to get to, easy to lose an sd card inside the machine, or may become loose or crap out over time. A micro sd extension cable will help with all of this. There are lots out there to choose from.
5) PRINTED UPGRADES. While not necessary, all are helpful and easy to print:
A) Tool Tray. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2703301 Handy for keeping small tools in a tray that slides under the print bed.
B) Filament guide. This guide helps to keep the filament from hitting the lead screw, and gets the filament directed to the entry hole in the least obstructive manner. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2744325 Tip: It's tempting to want to tighten the bolts that hold the brass z-rod guide, but this can cause binding as it travels high or low. Often times it is best to back the bolts off slightly allowing slight play as it travels up and down the zrod.
C) Adjustable Z stop bracket is helpful if you add glass or thicker substrates to the bed down the road: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2764072
D) A Fang Parts cooler is a great addition to help with bridging etc. This one requires a radial 5015 fan. Additionally you also have to run wiring to the control box (there is another FAN plug available in there). The fang can have a slight gap underneath the fan inlet where the two fangs meet, so I always run a bead of hotglue in there to plug it up. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2389245
Lastly, as mentioned previously, the stock creality firmware does NOT have thermal runaway protection enabled. If a heater cartridge, or bed wire comes loose, the printer will not detect it and will continue to pump more voltage in an attempt to heat either of those items up to the set temperature. This is a rare but potential issue if one is not around to discover the fault (or hear a smoke alarm going off). So at some point, as you get more serious with printing, it is advisable to upgrade the firmware. However it first requires an arduino board in order to burn a bootloader onto your mainboard. I can do this for you, or you can research it and attempt it yourself...
Aside from the thermal protection, you can also retain any hardware settings once you put a bootloader and firmware onto your board. The stock firmware doesn't retain any hardware changes you make after you shut the printer down.
After building two more ender two's last week, I came up with a list of upgrades That I found myself adding (having used them all on my existing ender 2s)... none are critical, but many will help improve quality and consistency... So you may wish to add these as you see fit/need in the future once you get the hang of printing. I've tried a bunch, but these items listed below have been proven over time. Listed in order of preference below
1) Pneumatic fittings. Stock suck. Brass and blue are ok. The chrome & black tend to have the most gripping power. I highly recommend making a mark or putting a piece of tape near each end of your ptfe tubing (near each fitting). This way you can easily see if your ptfe tube is slipping during retractions. M6 for the extruder side, m10 for the hot end side.
They can be found on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IB81IHG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 & https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Threa...44567652&sr=1-6&keywords=m6+pneumatic+fitting
1A) Clips for above fittings. You can use the handles off binder clips (small-medium). Or you can purchase hillman clips from lowes (if I recall they were the .062 x 19/32"). I've not had much luck printing any clips that lasted any length of time
2) Bed Springs. The stock bed springs are far to lightweight, allowing bed level to go off easily. I rarely need to relevel when using these inexpensive springs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013G5I4US/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3) Extruder. The stock extruder is fine and will work with tpu easily... The problem, is that it's plastic, and over time can crack where the pneumatic fitting screws in, or lots of printing will slowly wear a groove in the entry hole side. This aluminum one is a cheap and heavy duty alternative: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079JZ374W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
4) Micro SD card extension. The micro SD slot is tough to get to, easy to lose an sd card inside the machine, or may become loose or crap out over time. A micro sd extension cable will help with all of this. There are lots out there to choose from.
5) PRINTED UPGRADES. While not necessary, all are helpful and easy to print:
A) Tool Tray. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2703301 Handy for keeping small tools in a tray that slides under the print bed.
B) Filament guide. This guide helps to keep the filament from hitting the lead screw, and gets the filament directed to the entry hole in the least obstructive manner. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2744325 Tip: It's tempting to want to tighten the bolts that hold the brass z-rod guide, but this can cause binding as it travels high or low. Often times it is best to back the bolts off slightly allowing slight play as it travels up and down the zrod.
C) Adjustable Z stop bracket is helpful if you add glass or thicker substrates to the bed down the road: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2764072
D) A Fang Parts cooler is a great addition to help with bridging etc. This one requires a radial 5015 fan. Additionally you also have to run wiring to the control box (there is another FAN plug available in there). The fang can have a slight gap underneath the fan inlet where the two fangs meet, so I always run a bead of hotglue in there to plug it up. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2389245
Lastly, as mentioned previously, the stock creality firmware does NOT have thermal runaway protection enabled. If a heater cartridge, or bed wire comes loose, the printer will not detect it and will continue to pump more voltage in an attempt to heat either of those items up to the set temperature. This is a rare but potential issue if one is not around to discover the fault (or hear a smoke alarm going off). So at some point, as you get more serious with printing, it is advisable to upgrade the firmware. However it first requires an arduino board in order to burn a bootloader onto your mainboard. I can do this for you, or you can research it and attempt it yourself...
Aside from the thermal protection, you can also retain any hardware settings once you put a bootloader and firmware onto your board. The stock firmware doesn't retain any hardware changes you make after you shut the printer down.
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The filament gloopyness. The PETG is already stringy when moving and runs out when the nozzle's hot (not extruding) and it seems if the environment were warmer it'd string more/longer. Small stuff that the nozzle doesn't move far tends to stay too hot (think printing the narrow cylinder of a chamber flag or dummy round) and look like someone left a crayon in the sun. I'm guessing your suggestion on that is to get another fan/fan duct mounted on the extruder carriage blowing on the printed object?
PETG is just flat out prone to stringing. I have played with retraction settings and it does help a lot. I do run a print fan. It seems to help a little too. I have the stringiness down to baby hair fine. It wipes off pretty easy. I can not get rid of it totally.
If you don't have retraction turned on try setting it to 2.8mm. I use that setting for everything. When I try to get much more I end up with clogs. The media need to stay in the Hot Zone of the print head.
I have been playing a lot with RPi's. I found out that since last summer you can now boot from a hard drive and a USB drive on a USB port. It's Freaken sweet! And it works very well.
I am redoing my Pi control on my printer and playing with one for my SDR radio. Having some fun.
I just finish modeling a new case. This is the most complicated thing I have designed. It is all from scratch. This is the first of 3. All are different designs.This will be a controller for the printer. I have another case that will have a battery backup under it. That one will be a web server, Then another will have a touch screen 5 or 7 inch monitor. and a battery backup.
I am redoing my Pi control on my printer and playing with one for my SDR radio. Having some fun.
I just finish modeling a new case. This is the most complicated thing I have designed. It is all from scratch. This is the first of 3. All are different designs.This will be a controller for the printer. I have another case that will have a battery backup under it. That one will be a web server, Then another will have a touch screen 5 or 7 inch monitor. and a battery backup.
I have been playing a lot with RPi's. I found out that since last summer you can now boot from a hard drive and a USB drive on a USB port. It's Freaken sweet! And it works very well.
I am redoing my Pi control on my printer and playing with one for my SDR radio. Having some fun.
I just finish modeling a new case. This is the most complicated thing I have designed. It is all from scratch. This is the first of 3. All are different designs.This will be a controller for the printer. I have another case that will have a battery backup under it. That one will be a web server, Then another will have a touch screen 5 or 7 inch monitor. and a battery backup.
Very cool... I have messed with blender and fusion 360... but I find it most challenging to make something in tinkercad, and gravitate towards it for most of my 'designs' because of that challenge.
Most anything can be done with primitives and boolean.
Awesome. Thank you. I ordered the parts from Amazon already so I can just put the printer together with the parts already upgraded.
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