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  • RobbyMaQ

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    I found the shell dimension and you are correct, it lists it as .8mm walls and .6mm top and bottom.

    The PLA is Hatchbox 1.75mm.

    I will keep an eye on the filament next time I print, but haven't heard any odd clicking (although I didn't hear it when the entire thing skipped on the second print either and I was sitting right next to it).

    The extruder gear is the gear & motor assembly that pushes and pulls the filament. It is located on the left side of the X gantry (z rod goes up through the bracket that holds the motor). Everything relies on the extruder being accurate, and not having any slips or such. The stock pneumatic fittings (found at each end of the bowden tube) are low quality, and can allow the ptfe tubing to slip in and out. hence my comment about making a mark on the tube with sharpee near each end of the tube as an indicator, making it easier to see if the tubing slips. Slipping PTFE in turn means that if the motor is pushing say 50mm of filament through, but your tubing is slipping 5mm, then you're only pushing 45mm through. Sometimes the ptfe can slip all the way out, and then your not pushing any filament through the hot end, but instead pushing it all out the side of your printer (lol been there, done that).
    If the gear is not tight enough, or if it's too tight and grinds down the filament, it can result in not pushing enough filament through. If the motor gets overheated, it can cause the gear to skip steps and not push enough filament through. There are lots of things that can cause underextrusion. Checking all the mechanical things means we don't have to try to band aid it by overcompensating in the slicer settings.

    The layer shift you saw is likely caused by the belt skipping, or the bed/nozzle/something being obstructed partway through the print. There aren't any encoders, so the printer can never verify it's current position against anything beyond where it last was, and how much it was told to move. So if you bump the printer hard, it won't realize it, and will continue printing as if it hadn't been jostled or moved. The ender is a pretty tight kit, but double check your wiring to make sure it can't get caught or hung up on aything. ie the bed wiring catching on the y motor or something as the bed moves forward and back.
     

    Ericpwp

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    BE9k6Xj.jpg

    BE9k6Xj.jpg

    Moving parts! I really like petg.
     

    Ericpwp

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    Awesome! The print looks great. What's the Megapixel of that scope/cam? What model/brand? I have been looking for one to use for SMT work. My old fashion stereo scope is a bulkly beast on the bench.

    It's really low end, 640 horizontal I think. It was like just over $10 on Amazon.



    I couldn't believe there was zero smell coming from the petg.
     

    4651feeder

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    Thought you might enjoy this SLA motivation for your project Larry.

    [video=youtube;VCcJjI2u4AU]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VCcJjI2u4AU[/video]

    Merry Christmas to all.
     

    Sailor

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    Ok, I soldered the wires directly to the Pegasus 12 included relay, and of course while reinstalling it on the frame one of the them snapped off, a few bends of the 4 strands of copper that will fit in the little holes and they weaken and break. So I am going with a relay that a guy with an Peg 12 has been using with good results.

    But my current relay has two small wires going to D8 on the ramps. This does not what do I do about this?

    vGOdyv7nBC3
    vGOdyv7nBC3
     

    1911ly

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    Ok, I soldered the wires directly to the Pegasus 12 included relay, and of course while reinstalling it on the frame one of the them snapped off, a few bends of the 4 strands of copper that will fit in the little holes and they weaken and break. So I am going with a relay that a guy with an Peg 12 has been using with good results.

    But my current relay has two small wires going to D8 on the ramps. This does not what do I do about this?

    vGOdyv7nBC3
    vGOdyv7nBC3
    The 2 smaller wires are the coil leads for the relay. Can you post a pic of your relay? We can sort it out.
     

    Sailor

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    New one, I cant post pics now for some reason.

    birAK7Veiiz
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KO46YCU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AGJOB9QIKR6CC&psc=1

    Old one. Heat Bed Relay

    Info from another forum.
    If you did go with a SSR you should really consider setting it up like an 8" heater hooked directly to the onboard FET with PID control. I changed over from a relay because with Bang-Bang I was get poor regulation of temp and on 0.1 mm layers there was enough glass warp to make the tip drag on occasion. Also with a translucent PLA I'd get slight changes in color on the first couple of layers as it heated and cooled leaving sort of diagonal stripes although they don't really show on the finished print. I did however visually illustrate the wide variance in temperature compared to PID control. It works a lot better now with the SSR and PID enabled and AutoPID run for the bed.
     

    1911ly

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    The wires from D8 go to pins 3 and 4 on the SSR. There is a plus sign on the board. Make sure it goes to the plus on the SSR. The other 2 leads are the equivalent to the relay contacts. Put pins one and two on the SSR in series with the heatbed wiring. I don't think it matters which lead, plus or minus side.

    Just make sure the SSR is turning off and on. And you will need to run a PID tune. The tune will be totally different for a solidstate VS a mechanical.
     

    Sailor

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    Mechanical is fine also, if you know of one that works well let me know. Amazon has many just not sure which ones are gtg with 12 inch bed and the draw it requires.
     

    1911ly

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    You should be able to use a automotive style relay. You can pick them up at just about any auto parts store. They usually start at 30 amps and I think they go up to 70 or 80 amps. They have plugs for them with pigtails too.

    The throw is probably a bit longer, so a PID tune would be a must.

    The Makerfarm relay is a good relay. You could go back to it. Just make sure the screws stay tight on the plugs. I am still using one. It is almost 2 years old.
     

    1911ly

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    It's been pretty quiet in here. I was hoping a few would get printers for Xmas. So I though I would bump this thread up a bit.

    I have been printing a lot the last week or so. I picked up some "tough" PLA and I am impressed with it. The prints look shiny like PETG. It prints great with my normal settings. I bought 3 rolls a few months back. I printed a couple more 10-22 receivers. I haven't assembled one yet. I will let you guys know how it goes.

    I have also been tinkering with the Raspberry Pi 3+'s. I have designed a couple cases for my projects. I am moving my web server over to a RPi with a hard drive. I am going to use one on the printer for cameras and remote control. Swapping out the orange pi's I have been using for a year or so.
     

    RobbyMaQ

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    I saw your pi case... I've been running the pi3's for a year now and am thoroughly happy with them. I went wired. Running 3 printers off one, and the cr-10 off another with no issues.
    they came out with the plus like a week after I bought mine lol. just my luck... but hey, they work.

    I've dabbled printing... tonight ran a bunch of marvins in various colors to help collab with greybeard's project. Got to chatting with him in a hangout and decided to help with some filaments I had which he did not.
    He prints a bunch of marvins and catalogs all of the colors, then displays them in a rainbow of color on a pegboard wall at various events. GreyBeard3D ? Defining Color in 3D Printing
     

    Jaredjosh

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    Been kinda quiet in here lately. I haven't been doing much myself. I am in the process of printing the updated version of my cooling fan shroud. Figured what the heck. Hope all are dong well.
     

    RobbyMaQ

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    projects are on the back burner... have a few ideas but slowly testing them.
    Focused on getting a bunch of maker coins printed for MRRF.
     
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