Threading a Handi-Rifle

[ctbreitwieser]

I had some time today to get on my lathe and thread my .357maximum handi-rifle. I searched all over the internet and posted threads on multiple forums trying to find a way to do it, since the lug on the barrel wont allow it to fit in most spindles, and never could find much help. I ended up getting a little advice on practicalmachinist.com. I started by putting the chamber end in the 4-jaw, and ran it out through my steady rest. Now most steady rests won't work for muzzle threading because it doesn't allow you to indicate off the bore. Luckily I have a homemade steady rest that utilizes a bearing with 4 screws that create a mock 4-jaw in the rest, it works very well, and allowed me to indicate off the bore, since the barrel I.D. could run out of round. The most difficult part of the operation was indicating the O.D. of the chamber end, since there wasn't enough space between the jaws for the lug to fit (I should have taken a more close up picture of it, but I tend to get excited and forget about pictures). But anyways, I was able to play around with it finally get it indicated with only .0025" runout, plenty close enough. I got the muzzle indicated and started cutting.

I tried to take a picture every time I thought of it, but like I said, I get excited and forget. So hopefully this will help some of you if you ever decide to thread one. If anyone has any input, or different ways of doing it, please feel free to give your input. Im always looking for more and better ways to do things.

I did shoot 5 .38spls through it with my Guardian 9 on it, and it was REALLY quiet.

I apologize for the crappy pics, but my camera lens is scratched. Hope you enjoy them anyways.

Barrel chucked up and parting off to 16.5"...



Barrel parted off and ready to be turned down (good view of my steady rest)...



Muzzle turned down to .500" O.D. and .600" long, with undercut to allow suppressor to fully shoulder...



Threads are cut (sorry no pics of the threading process), and putting a ever-so-slight 45* angle on the inside to clean up the burs...



I ran a die over the threads to clean them up and test-fit the can...



Finished threads...



Gun without can ...



Gun with can...

 

[ctbreitwieser]

Sorry my pictures are so big, not sure how to correct that.

 

[ctbreitwieser]

Applied some cold blue with a coat of CLP to give the threads a factory finished look. Next up is making a thread protector as soon as I get some time.

 

[Slow Hand]

Looks good! I had a short, threaded .357 for awhile. Kind of wish I would have kept it, but with my lever action .357 being threaded and having a couple of .300's to suppress it seemed to be a spare spare...

your four jaw steady feast is pretty nice! I'm new to lathe operation, but is there an issue with turning a barrel between centers to thread it concentric?

 

[ctbreitwieser]

Thanks. There's no issue with threading between centers, as long as you check your tailstock center to ensure it is running true to your chuck. However, it doesn't really work on a barrel barrel that has been cut down because you can't recrown the muzzle with the center stuck in it. It's generally not a problem if your barrel is long enough to reach through the headstock and mount in a spider, or if your barrel doesn't have a taper, but with this having the lug on it and not fitting in the spindle and too short to reach through there wasn't much else I could do.

 

[.458socomhunter]

How's your accuracy with .38spl after being taken to .357 max? Do you run handloads? Thanks for the thread, would love to do this to mine. Ideas on who could do this for me as I have no lathe?

 

[1911ly]

How's your accuracy with .38spl after being taken to .357 max? Do you run handloads? Thanks for the thread, would love to do this to mine. Ideas on who could do this for me as I have no lathe?

You need to add your location. That would help find someone near you to do the job.

 

[AllenM]

I like the steady rest

 

[Squirt239]

I like the steady rest

I second that

 

[Slow Hand]

Yep, it's got me thinking on how I can build one myself. I want to be able to thread barrels and internal tubes. It looks like you could take a wheel bearing and make a bushing to fit tightly inside of it for the rotating part. Only thing I'm not sure of is how to turn the hole in the plate as I'd need a bigger lathe than the one I want to use it on to swing the piece. Thats a bad thing about having am 80+ year old lathe, you cant just go online and order up parts for it!

 

[ctbreitwieser]

How's your accuracy with .38spl after being taken to .357 max? Do you run handloads? Thanks for the thread, would love to do this to mine. Ideas on who could do this for me as I have no lathe?

Unfortunately, I'm afraid the person who did the reaming over reamed the chamber, because I'm having a lot issues with it. Luckily, I think I can work something out to fix it. You can actually hand ream the Max without a lathe. All you need is a piloted reamer and a T-handle. Graybeard outdoors rents one for $10 plus shipping.

Yep, it's got me thinking on how I can build one myself. I want to be able to thread barrels and internal tubes. It looks like you could take a wheel bearing and make a bushing to fit tightly inside of it for the rotating part. Only thing I'm not sure of is how to turn the hole in the plate as I'd need a bigger lathe than the one I want to use it on to swing the piece. Thats a bad thing about having am 80+ year old lathe, you cant just go online and order up parts for it!

Your best bet would be to have someone make the plate with a mill and boring head.