What Generator do you have?

[kawasakiridrzx6r]

I believe a generac 5500 is the one i would choose ....i work construction and ive used mine for 5 years now and it still dont miss a beat....its all in the upkeep

 

[Krogo]

How many of you fellas/gals have battery back up for lights and electronics??

I do have a battery bank with inverter. Currently the Inverter is running in UPS mode for my critical loads less the well pump and sump pump.

The Radio room is largely 12 volt anyway. Lighting is 12V fluorescent, Computers have DC-DC power supplies.

The inverter is a Xantrex Freedom SW 3000 I scored from my father-in-law (he was installing a larger Magnum in his boat).
Current battery bank is 570 Ahr of AGM. I will be upgrading to 1140 Ahr this fall. Charging is exclusively provided by Genset one.

 

[LockStocksAndBarrel]

I use my trolling motor battery and I have 3 inverters for small stuff. Nothing Churchmousish, though.

 

[LeeStreet]

Smarter Tools 9500W starting, 7500W run.

 

[rvb]

How many of you fellas/gals have battery back up for lights and electronics??

Battery back-up for sump (2nd pump, can also run off 120 to help the primary pump). Can use the generator to recharge.

A few night-lights around the house that if power goes out or if they are removed from the plug work for a couple hours as a flashlight (easy to find, lights some walkways, etc). Plus the Surefire beside the gun. Also have several battery lanterns, etc.

As for electronics on battery, just the iPad. If power is out, I can use 3G for internet (if my home wi-fi is out or I'm not running the generator... yea, wi-fi is on a generator circuit!).

-rvb

 

[cardio1]

Generac 30KW, ford 6 cylinder engine running on natural gas. 16 years, multiple outages >3 days. No problems.
Runs what we need summer or winter.

 

[The Keymaster]

We are putting a Generac 6052 in at our property in Michigan in mid June. 14K will handle that, and that one will be LP. ~1.5 gallons per hour at 50% load. That would be 266 hours on a 500 gallon tank filled to 80% capacity.

 

[churchmouse]

I do have a battery bank with inverter. Currently the Inverter is running in UPS mode for my critical loads less the well pump and sump pump.

The Radio room is largely 12 volt anyway. Lighting is 12V fluorescent, Computers have DC-DC power supplies.

The inverter is a Xantrex Freedom SW 3000 I scored from my father-in-law (he was installing a larger Magnum in his boat).
Current battery bank is 570 Ahr of AGM. I will be upgrading to 1140 Ahr this fall. Charging is exclusively provided by Genset one.

I have a hook-up with a local wrecking/scrap yard. I get the inverter's and panels from the motor homes they haul in to part out/scrap. You would be amazed at how many there are laying around with under 40K miles on them. Once the tires and brakes wear out and the actual cost of owning a motor home comes to light.....they park them. This was also a source of big block Chevy engines for us.

It sounds like you are right on top of this. I have not actually measured available Ahr from our set up. I have (2) 3000 W units on our back up. In cold weather I have one dedicated for the furnace. I have ran the heat all night on the bank in fairly cold weather and it does well enough.

 

[10-32]

If you've got a generator, what did you buy and why? Personally I'm new to the idea and concept, so I bought a cheapo from Harbor Freight based on some reviews I'd read on another forum.

63cc, 900 Watts Max/800 Watts Rated Portable Generator

My intent is to be able to run a 800 watt utility pump with this generator and any small appliance that I'd need to. Right now I haven't fully tested it as it's still in the break in period.

I'm surprised everyone overlooked this. A motor that runs at 800 watts continuous normally requires up to 2400 watts of starting power. This is the general rule for most motors. I'd be careful plugging that pump into that generator, it may end up frying it.

When buying a generator, add up all the watts you plan on running together, multiply it by 3. Then buy a generator with a continuous running wattage or greater of your answer. Yes, even fluorescent light bulbs need that surge of power to light up.

 

[10-32]

I have built several for friends over the last 3 years. We have 4 deep cycle gell cells, 2 inverters and a 4 circuit smart charger. The batts stay topped off and are ready at all times. We power up any outdoor activity (lights in Gazebo, lawn equipment, security lights) from the bank to cycle the batts. and occasionally run the lights/tv for a weekend.
Yes, temporary but if you use it for low loads such as lights and electronics you can run silent all night. Our system will power the furnace with no issues. No genny noise at night to alert the zombies you have power. Run the genny during the day to top off the batts when needed.
The 6 batt. reserve we built up for the BOL cabin has ran the lights etc for days with no issues. You can start with 2 batts and a decent clean power inverter and expand from there.

I have 4 Gel cells inside of a battery box that I have wired a 110v outlet to. I've also bought several 12v DC 13 watt (60 watt equivalent) fluorescent light bulbs. Unplug the lamp from the AC outlet, swap out the bulbs, then plug the lamp into the battery box and you're good to go. I did this as a way to eliminate the need for an inverter and the power loss from inverting 12v DC to 110 AC. Only down side is the 12v DC bulbs run about $9 each.

 

[churchmouse]

I'm surprised everyone overlooked this. A motor that runs at 800 watts continuous normally requires up to 2400 watts of starting power. This is the general rule for most motors. I'd be careful plugging that pump into that generator, it may end up frying it.

When buying a generator, add up all the watts you plan on running together, multiply it by 3. Then buy a generator with a continuous running wattage or greater of your answer. Yes, even fluorescent light bulbs need that surge of power to light up.

You are correct. It is is inrush or LRA (locked rotor amps) and if not sized properly it will knock the snot out of your genny.

As to loss in conversion, it is a factor but with enough battery and inverter, using ones head on what to power, the loss is not that great. I find that running electric motors as in lawn equip. or the furnace pulls the hardest on the reserve. If we run low wattage lights and electronics the reserve lasts a good while.
The bank we built for the BOL cabin can run for days as it only supports lights, an occasional fan and a coffee pot. Darn coffee maker draws a butt load of currant.

 

[Joe G]

We have a Generac NG 20Kw. With a well, sump pump, sewage pump, etc. we really can't afford to be without power for a long time. Plus I got tired of running extension cords and filling the fuel tank.

Adding the same thing to the new house. Cheaper to do it now than to have electrician back out and re-wire.

It has the "smart" transfer switch, so it will basically run any circuit in the house - just need to make sure the wife and kids don't go crazy and turn everything on while the geothermal is on.

Generac Guardian™ 20kW Aluminum Standby Generator System (200A Service Disconnect + AC Shedding) | Generac Guardian 6244

You are correct. It is is inrush or LRA (locked rotor amps) and if not sized properly it will knock the snot out of your genny.

I upgraded (was pretty cheap actually) the geothermal ECM motors to include the "soft start" circuit - cut the initial inrush by over 50%. The geo unit, as long as it's not using the aux electric heat (I didn't put these circuits on the back up panel), doesn't use as many amps as I thought it would while running. The start up is the killer.

 

[RobbyMaQ]

When buying a generator, add up all the watts you plan on running together, multiply it by 3. Then buy a generator with a continuous running wattage or greater of your answer. Yes, even fluorescent light bulbs need that surge of power to light up.

That's why I wound up with a 6000w generator (to handle the furnace blower and well pump motor kicking on).

 

[wolfeden]

http://www.hoosiernetwork.com/catgenset.jpg

I just picked one up from work. Works like a charm LOL

 

[eatsnopaste]

http://www.hoosiernetwork.com/catgenset.jpg

I just picked one up from work. Works like a charm LOL

Can you use the coffee pot AND the toaster at the same time with that?

 

[churchmouse]

I upgraded (was pretty cheap actually) the geothermal ECM motors to include the "soft start" circuit - cut the initial inrush by over 50%. The geo unit, as long as it's not using the aux electric heat (I didn't put these circuits on the back up panel), doesn't use as many amps as I thought it would while running. The start up is the killer.[/QUOTE]


As I am an HVAC tech I put a VFD soft start on my blower as well. It spools up now instead of full on. The VFD and ECM motor came from a water furnace that was shipped with the wrong components that I up-graded for a friend. It allows me the flexibility to set fan speeds for existing conditions as the furnace is a dual stage. Great find as this package is salty to buy. It really saves the reserves in the back up and when running the genny's. As long as Nat. gas is coming down the pipe we will have heat. Running the A/C requires the genny.

 

[LockStocksAndBarrel]

A heads up for all you battery bank/inverter users. Be sure that you don't allow your batteries to get below 50% depth of discharge or you'll be replacing them very quickly.

Make sure when they approach 50% you recharge them.

 

[Hoosierkav]

If you read the reviews on the big box stores websites, it will make you question any purchase. They were either from a year ago or so, or from people who said, "I set it up, and it ran fine for the 10 minutes I tested it. Five stars."

What was a piece of poor engineering last year can be a fine piece this year. Kind of like guns, eh?

 

[Joe G]

As I am an HVAC tech I put a VFD soft start on my blower as well. It spools up now instead of full on. The VFD and ECM motor came from a water furnace that was shipped with the wrong components that I up-graded for a friend. It allows me the flexibility to set fan speeds for existing conditions as the furnace is a dual stage. Great find as this package is salty to buy. It really saves the reserves in the back up and when running the genny's. As long as Nat. gas is coming down the pipe we will have heat. Running the A/C requires the genny.

Good to hear a confirmation from a second HVAC guy.

Hope to never have to use the genny.... but I figured it was worth making sure if/when the time comes we can use the heat or AC if needed.

 

[churchmouse]

Good to hear a confirmation from a second HVAC guy.

Hope to never have to use the genny.... but I figured it was worth making sure if/when the time comes we can use the heat or AC if needed.

If you are spooling up the A/C be sure it is the only appliance you are running during start up depending on you genny's inrush wattage.
Look on the rating plate of outdoor unit. Find RLA rating...(run loaded amps) and see what that comes to in wattage. Amps X volts = watts. That will give you the running requirements. Remember, this can be higher X's 2 on start up. Have the furnace blower running before you bring the A/C up.
Just remember your A/C can be one of or the highest currant draw in your home.