Wood furniture preservation for M1, AK, etc

[Jimb]

Hi all.
I have a CAI C39V2 AKM that has pretty nice wood furniture NIB. It is supposedly birch...has real tight grain, and looks almost synthetic. Is there a good wood oil, or treatment that you all could recommend that might bring out the grain a little?
Also, I have an M1, and other WWII infantry rifles, some with original and others with refurbished furniture,....would the same oil recommended for the above work well to preserve these as well?

 

[knutty]

Proper storage in a climate controlled enviroment is by far the most important factor in wood preservation. Unless these rifles are seeing heavy use or prolonged exposure to the elements, then nothing needs to be done.

But if you really feel the need to do something, then use Howards Feed and Wax on your stocks.

 

[Jimb]

Proper storage in a climate controlled enviroment is by far the most important factor in wood preservation. Unless these rifles are seeing heavy use or prolonged exposure to the elements, then nothing needs to be done.

But if you really feel the need to do something, then use Howards Feed and Wax on your stocks.

Thanks. Yeah...would really just be an every now and then thing.

 

[ruger1800]

Howard feed-n-wax

 

[Hookeye]

I use Renaissance Wax.

 

[Jimb]

Howard feed-n-wax

Looked this stuff up online....looks like good stuff and easy enough to find...i.e., Walmart. Will do the trick. Thanks

 

[BogWalker]

Not sure on the AK. My WASR came with no stock finish, so I'll just answer for the Garand and other WWII rifles.

Raw linseed oil or tung oil. Apply by hand, rub until the friction makes things very warm. Do a thin coat over the entire stock. I put my palm over the opening in the can and invert briefly. Doing this twice is enough oil for a Lee-Enfield stock so shouldn't need much more for a Garand. I wiped off the excess oil after the wood stops taking it up.

If properly applied will leave a smooth, relatively hard finish. Will also pull grime out of the finish so no need to stick the stock in the dishwasher or anything silly. No sandpaper either.

Shouldn't have to do this very often unless your rifle hasn't had the stock oiled since 1945. Then it may need a second coat.

 

[Hookeye]

Interesting read

Howard's Feed-N-Wax and others - RimfireCentral.com Forums

 

[Hookeye]

https://www.shellac.net/RenWax.html

 

[Hookeye]

I think the product so far, to be decent, but not the superduper whatever others have hyped it to be.
Time will tell.
This video is pretty decent....

[video=youtube;KlToim_s0c0]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KlToim_s0c0[/video]

 

[TheJoker]

Not sure on the AK. My WASR came with no stock finish, so I'll just answer for the Garand and other WWII rifles.

Raw linseed oil or tung oil. Apply by hand, rub until the friction makes things very warm. Do a thin coat over the entire stock. I put my palm over the opening in the can and invert briefly. Doing this twice is enough oil for a Lee-Enfield stock so shouldn't need much more for a Garand. I wiped off the excess oil after the wood stops taking it up.

If properly applied will leave a smooth, relatively hard finish. Will also pull grime out of the finish so no need to stick the stock in the dishwasher or anything silly. No sandpaper either.

Shouldn't have to do this very often unless your rifle hasn't had the stock oiled since 1945. Then it may need a second coat.

^^^ What BogWalker said! ^^^

I was a skeptic of hand application until I tried it myself. It makes a big difference! I use this product:

Raw Linseed Oil Kit

It is the real McCoy. Most commercial RLO is not. For really or unfinished stocks, I use a 50/50 mix of D-Limoline and RLO first(...it cleans and penetrates better!). Then, I follow up with pure RLO. I have had pretty good luck since using this process.

The above is a Field Grade '45 Winchester from the CMP with an unfinished Boyd's stock I found on EBay. I applied 4 coats of the 50/50 mix and 4 coats of the pure RLO.

 

[Leadeye]

BogWalker is spot on. Linseed oil has been an excellent wood finish for years. Remember to put the application and cleanup rags in water or outside, away from anything you don't want to catch on fire.

 

[tenring]

On a goodly number of Mil Surp's, TSP [Tri Sodium Phosphate] bath in hot water and scrub all the crud off with Scotch pads, thoroughly dry after rinsing with hot water. Sand down any burs and apply the first coat with 100% pure Tung Oil [Brownell's], wipe down and let it soak in. Then start rubbing Culver's Magic Paste. Make it with 1/3 pure Tung Oil, 1/3 Bee's Wax [or toilet bowl ring] and 1/3 unscented Mineral Spirits. Turns out as a paste, much like shoe polish, rub in in sparingly with your fingers and then wipe the stock down and let it sit for a few days. Continue until all pores are filled. When I got a brand new Springfield M1A, the Linseed Oil finish was removed promptly and finished with the paste before I ever fired it. Some like to start after initial cleaning with a light application of Chestnut Ridge, Dark Walnut Stain with a hit of Red [Brownell's] to accent the final finish. Take your time, it's worth the effort. YMMV

 

[ol' Huff]

If it already has a finish on it don't use BLO. That's not great advice. BLO is a good preservative and finish coat BUT if the wood is already finished BLO is going to add some trouble. It's a mold magnet. It doesn't always cure quickly and adding additional, unneeded layers will add a gummy layer that can cure in such a fashion that it show fingerprints or tool swipes.

If if it's already finished and you like it, just use wax. If you seek to refinish it, then that's a whole nother ball of ... Wax and you will need BLO or tung.

 

[Jimb]

Thanks Hookeye. Good info there. Can you find the Renat local, or do you have to order?

 

[Jimb]

Renaissance rather than renat

 

[Cerberus]

For the US surplus rifles. Do not do this with those that you know are complete and historical. Remove as much metal as you can safely remove and spray down the stock with a good quality degreasing spray, ie Simple Green, Purple Power etc. Let sit for 20-30 minutes and then rinse off really well. Let dry in a cool dry place for several days. After thoroughly dry use a cheap brush and heavily coat the entire stock in PURE tung oil (or raw linseed oil) and let sit for about an hour, then wipe off all excess. After all the excess is gone rub the complete stock by hand, frequently drying your hands with rags or paper towels. Let stock sit until dry. Reassemble rifle and periodically maintain with boiled linseed oil as was the official practice of our armed forces until the M16 became the standard.

The American arsenals preferred Tung oil since prior to WW1 WHEN in could be GOTTEN. Supply interruptions at times dictated that raw linseed oil be used during the factory finishing. The factory dipped the freshly made stocks in vats of oil and then the excess was wiped off and allowed to dry (maybe), and most like never even rubbed down especially during war expediencies. These firearms were not intended to be pretty.

 

[halfmileharry]

For the US surplus rifles. Do not do this with those that you know are complete and historical. Remove as much metal as you can safely remove and spray down the stock with a good quality degreasing spray, ie Simple Green, Purple Power etc. Let sit for 20-30 minutes and then rinse off really well. Let dry in a cool dry place for several days. After thoroughly dry use a cheap brush and heavily coat the entire stock in PURE tung oil (or raw linseed oil) and let sit for about an hour, then wipe off all excess. After all the excess is gone rub the complete stock by hand, frequently drying your hands with rags or paper towels. Let stock sit until dry. Reassemble rifle and periodically maintain with boiled linseed oil as was the official practice of our armed forces until the M16 became the standard.

The American arsenals preferred Tung oil since prior to WW1 WHEN in could be GOTTEN. Supply interruptions at times dictated that raw linseed oil be used during the factory finishing. The factory dipped the freshly made stocks in vats of oil and then the excess was wiped off and allowed to dry (maybe), and most like never even rubbed down especially during war expediencies. These firearms were not intended to be pretty.

This.
I cleaned off my old 03A3, very nicely. I scrubbed out the stain, steamed out the dings and scratches. Sanded down to a super nice finish.
I finished it out with Boiled Linseed Oil.
The rifle came out absolutely gorgeous. Fantastic grain, deep oil finish, excellent color in the wood. I screwed it up bad. The old rifle is a blue collar worker and not a suit and tie rifle. It looked too nice to be a war rifle.
Follow the manufacturers recommendations for factory finish looks.

 

[Jimb]

I use Renaissance Wax.

This stuff is the bomb! Much less time consuming than more traditional methods, and yields quality results.

 

[LarryC]

As a woodworker and Firearm collector, I have used almost all common finishes. The original finish for Garands and M1 carbines was refined linseed oil, although I'm sure a lot were factory finished using Boiled linseed oil (BLO). I don't use what is commonly termed "Raw" linseed oil as the curing time is at least double the time of BLO. However the BLO does not cure to the reddish tint common on some stocks. The best protection is actually pure Tung oil, BUT most finishes called Tung oil is not pure tung oil but a combination of varnishes and finishes that actually contain little if any Tung oil. I purchase pure Tung oil from one of the woodworkers sites or stores, be careful to read the description to insure it is pure Tung oil with no additives. As I recall Tung oil does eventually turn to some what a reddish finish over the years. Tung Oil is a "clearer" finish as the BLO does have an Amber tint when applied. I oil my military Garands, M! carbine, Mausers, Enfields, and the rest of my collection with BLO when required. I do apply the finish with my bare hands and rub it until the stock is warm, I let it sit for an hour or so and wipe it completely dry. That allows the oil to "soak into" any dry spots (where the finish has worn off) and still leaves a very thin film which will harden within 12 to 24 hours. If any stock has a hard film finish from someones prior refinishing I do not apply any oil, rather I use a quality wax, the wax does help prevent moisture absorption. As all American stocks originally had Linseed oil finishes, I believe this does not alter the firearms in any way. I would believe almost all other countries probably used linseed oil finishes as it is easily applied and easily maintained and pretty inexpensive. Both linseed and tung oil will provide a "Satin" finish after several applications. A Wax applied will become a shiny finish after a few applications. I prefer the oil finish appearance as it is the original.