Work In Progress

[03A3]

I've been dinking with a couple of 10/22's to have ready for next year.
Today on the bottom of the buttstocks I filed flats spots to mount 1903 Springfield rear sling swivels. Without filing a flat spot they just weren't going to work out near as well due to the radius at the bottom of the stocks. I took my time and it turned out pretty good. I still need to stain these areas and get some BLO on them.
These are actual, moving swivels. I'm going to angle the swivel loops forward somewhat and tack weld them in place with a MIG from the bottom, then cold blue the welds. I like the non-swiveling Garand/M14/M16 type rear sling attachment.
For the front sling swivels I'm using M14 swivels. I'm still studying on the hardware I need. I'm thinking about using machine screws/washers/nuts. That will be a little more involved than just using wood screws.
I have some bolt releases, and one lever-type magazine release.
I still need to get the Tech sights.
I thought I was out of Garand/M14 slings but found some that I'd hid from myself.
All of the trigger group and receiver guts are original factory stuff.
When I get them together I'm going to shoot with and without the front band, and experiment with barrel bedding.
I need to practice as much as I can.
I'm pretty excited about getting to go to some Appleseeds next year. I should be able to make Riley, Cloverdale, Evansville and Carmi. Maybe some others too but I need to check into that better.

 

[Bill of Rights]

I've been dinking with a couple of 10/22's to have ready for next year.
Today on the bottom of the buttstocks I filed flats spots to mount 1903 Springfield rear sling swivels. Without filing a flat spot they just weren't going to work out near as well due to the radius at the bottom of the stocks. I took my time and it turned out pretty good. I still need to stain these areas and get some BLO on them.
These are actual, moving swivels. I'm going to angle the swivel loops forward somewhat and tack weld them in place with a MIG from the bottom, then cold blue the welds. I like the non-swiveling Garand/M14/M16 type rear sling attachment.
For the front sling swivels I'm using M14 swivels. I'm still studying on the hardware I need. I'm thinking about using machine screws/washers/nuts. That will be a little more involved than just using wood screws.
I have some bolt releases, and one lever-type magazine release.
I still need to get the Tech sights.
I thought I was out of Garand/M14 slings but found some that I'd hid from myself.
All of the trigger group and receiver guts are original factory stuff.
When I get them together I'm going to shoot with and without the front band, and experiment with barrel bedding.
I need to practice as much as I can.
I'm pretty excited about getting to go to some Appleseeds next year. I should be able to make Riley, Cloverdale, Evansville and Carmi. Maybe some others too but I need to check into that better.

And don't forget, we're getting to that time of the year.... WINTERSEEDS!

Just sayin'...

Blessings,
Bill

 

[yellowhousejake]

Don't worry too much about bedding, trigger jobs, etc. I have not seen a 10-22 (or any reasonable 22) that would not shoot a rifleman score with ammo it likes.

Get to an Appleseed, the accuracy is on this side of the trigger

YHJ

 

[03A3]

Winterseeds would work for me too. I have Carharts and longjohns.
Nothing real fancy on these guns. Just what seems to be basic Appleseed accessories.
I agree that the nut behind trigger is the important part, and this nut needs to get to practicing.
I have a bunch of CCI Mini-Mags and CCI Blazer. I need to test various ammo and see what shoots best.
I haven't found a place local that sells CCI or other good quality ammo in bulk. Ever so often I get to go to Dunn's Sporting Goods in Paducah, KY, Marion, IL or Peavely, MO and they usually have it.

For the front sling swivel mounting hardware I've come up with 10-32 x 1" long Allen head screws (black finish) to be used with nuts (Loctited) and flat washers. Locknuts would work too but I haven't came across any yet. I'm going to drill the stocks for the Allen screws, then from the barrel channel side enlarge the screw holes with a 1/2" Forster bit so the nuts will be recessed in the stock there in the barrel channels.. If I rememeber correctly these stocks are 1-1/8" thick at this area of the barrel channel. I'm not sure yet if a 1/2" Forster bit will be big enough. I may have to go a size bigger in order to get on the nut with a 1/4" drive socket ect. They won't have to be real tight.
I'm going to have to flatten that area of the stocks somewhat in order to get the front sling swivels to sit properly on the stock. Just afew passes with a file will take care of that.

Added :
For the rear sling swivels I have original? Springfield rear swivel screws. I guess they're original. All of the rear swivel stuff came from Numrich so not sure if it's actually original USGI stuff or not, but it will work for this.
The front sling swivels came from a place called treelinem14 dot com. A good guy with good, real USGI stuff.

What about these slick 10/22 buttplates? I've heard of people putting skate board tape on 10/22 buttplates. Is that necessary? I haven't tried to locate it yet and really don't know where to look. Or is there another alternative? I don't really like sticky stuff on a gun, but skateboard tape may be the best option for all I know.

Years ago a buddy and me bought a bunch of 10/22's for our kids. They have since grown up and they are clinging to their 10/22's (That's a good thing). These were earlier guns with metal parts versus the plastic parts guns that we now have. We should've bought more of the old versions back when we still could. Oh well, another lesson learned.

 

[yellowhousejake]

Skateboard tape is the same as anti-skid tape they sell at home supply stores. You could checker the butt plate, plastic cuts eeeeeasy. You can also put down a layer of black electrical tape on the butt plate first, then stick the anti-skid to that. Makes removal easy.

My 10-22 is old, walnut stock, and has fired thousands of rounds, been loaned out a ton, and a standard wood screw swivel on the fore arm has shown no sign of loosening. My only concern would be creating a super strong attachment point might be detrimental, if you remove so much wood that you lose strength there.

YHJ

 

[03A3]

True skateboard tape = non-skid for floors/steps.
Those 1/2" diameter holes I'm thinking about boring in the barrel channel will be approximately 1/4" deep. That still leaves the forearm @ 7/8" thickness between the swivel and the washer/nut. I think it will work. I hope so. If I ever get a day off of work I'd like to finish this project.
Thank you for the advice.