Work Sharp Knife Sharpener

[shootersix]

like they say in the work sharp instructions, buy a cheap flea market knife and practice!, its very easy to ruin a knife with a worksharp!

I've used mine on a few of my knives, but on my high end knives, I use a stone or my spyderco sharpmaker

and the best advice ever (on knives) it's easier to keep a sharp knife sharp, than to make a dull knife sharp!

I have a crock stick at work and touch up my blade every week or so, all it takes is a few swipes, and at home I have my sharp maker or my worksharp.

and take rhino up on his offer! if he can sharpen a knife for you let him!......his knives are scalpel sharp! in fact his knives have cut more flesh than most doctors!


View attachment 51471

 

[gregr]

like they say in the work sharp instructions, buy a cheap flea market knife and practice!, its very easy to ruin a knife with a worksharp!

I've used mine on a few of my knives, but on my high end knives, I use a stone or my spyderco sharpmaker

and the best advice ever (on knives) it's easier to keep a sharp knife sharp, than to make a dull knife sharp!

I have a crock stick at work and touch up my blade every week or so, all it takes is a few swipes, and at home I have my sharp maker or my worksharp.

and take rhino up on his offer! if he can sharpen a knife for you let him!......his knives are scalpel sharp! in fact his knives have cut more flesh than most doctors!


View attachment 51471

That would be great if ever it were to work out, and I have no doubt he is true to his word and can put a great edge on a blade. But still, I need to be able to do that for myself too. I`ve just grown so frustrated trying to use a stone, it`s all but impossible for me.

 

[rhino]

like they say in the work sharp instructions, buy a cheap flea market knife and practice!, its very easy to ruin a knife with a worksharp!

I've used mine on a few of my knives, but on my high end knives, I use a stone or my spyderco sharpmaker

and the best advice ever (on knives) it's easier to keep a sharp knife sharp, than to make a dull knife sharp!

I have a crock stick at work and touch up my blade every week or so, all it takes is a few swipes, and at home I have my sharp maker or my worksharp.

and take rhino up on his offer! if he can sharpen a knife for you let him!......his knives are scalpel sharp! in fact his knives have cut more flesh than most doctors!


View attachment 51471

At least when doctors do it it's usually a different patient each time! rhino on the other hand . . . oy!

Trivia: I haven't cut myself for a few months! Woo-hoo!

That would be great if ever it were to work out, and I have no doubt he is true to his word and can put a great edge on a blade. But still, I need to be able to do that for myself too. I`ve just grown so frustrated trying to use a stone, it`s all but impossible for me.

Agreed! You need to be able to do it yourself. My offer was actually for printcraft, but I'll do one of yours too if we're ever in the same place at the same time.

Let me ask this: what kind of stones have you tried?

If you've been using natural Arkansas stones on a hard stainless or tool steel knife, it's going to take essentially forever to remove much metal. Those are best for polishing and maintaining already sharp edges.

To get good results with stones, you not only need to be able to maintain a consistent angle, but you also need the right tools for the job. That entails having at least one stone that will remove a lot of metal fairly quickly. Coarse diamond stones are excellent for this, as are low grit Japanese water stones, and coarse Norton stones. Once you get the bevel set with a coarse stone (or if you're keeping the same bevel, as soon as you get a burr - you can see it if you look), then you can move to a finer grit and repeat the process. When you stop depends progressing to finer grits depends on your needs.

I spent a few years pushing stainless across Arkansas stones for hours at a time before I realized I needed a different set of tools!

On the other hand, for a tool that is already fairly sharp, they can produce really nice results. I used to finish my Swiss Army Knives on a natural black Arkansas that the lab at the local hospital used to use to sharpen microtome blades. After that you could shave your face easily (a little more intense than arm hair) without even any stropping. The downside is that those edges would slide right across a piece of rope or similar materials.

 

[gregr]

At least when doctors do it it's usually a different patient each time! rhino on the other hand . . . oy!

Trivia: I haven't cut myself for a few months! Woo-hoo!




Agreed! You need to be able to do it yourself. My offer was actually for printcraft, but I'll do one of yours too if we're ever in the same place at the same time.

Let me ask this: what kind of stones have you tried?

If you've been using natural Arkansas stones on a hard stainless or tool steel knife, it's going to take essentially forever to remove much metal. Those are best for polishing and maintaining already sharp edges.

To get good results with stones, you not only need to be able to maintain a consistent angle, but you also need the right tools for the job. That entails having at least one stone that will remove a lot of metal fairly quickly. Coarse diamond stones are excellent for this, as are low grit Japanese water stones, and coarse Norton stones. Once you get the bevel set with a coarse stone (or if you're keeping the same bevel, as soon as you get a burr - you can see it if you look), then you can move to a finer grit and repeat the process. When you stop depends progressing to finer grits depends on your needs.

I spent a few years pushing stainless across Arkansas stones for hours at a time before I realized I needed a different set of tools!

On the other hand, for a tool that is already fairly sharp, they can produce really nice results. I used to finish my Swiss Army Knives on a natural black Arkansas that the lab at the local hospital used to use to sharpen microtome blades. After that you could shave your face easily (a little more intense than arm hair) without even any stropping. The downside is that those edges would slide right across a piece of rope or similar materials.

Clearly, rhino, you are a craftsman with regards to knife sharpening.

You`re quite correct in that, the last time I tried sharpening a knife on a stone was years ago, and it was indeed an Arkansas stone. What you`ve shared with me would explain a lot about the struggles I`ve experienced. I do worry now, that even IF I got good stones, if I`d have the ability to actually sharpen a knife on a stone. Obviously, keeping the same, consistent angle is key, and I don`t believe I could ever do that. And to clamp knives into the Lansky sharpeners, and go through all that seems so tedious to even consider.

 

[rhino]

Clearly, rhino, you are a craftsman with regards to knife sharpening.

You`re quite correct in that, the last time I tried sharpening a knife on a stone was years ago, and it was indeed an Arkansas stone. What you`ve shared with me would explain a lot about the struggles I`ve experienced. I do worry now, that even IF I got good stones, if I`d have the ability to actually sharpen a knife on a stone. Obviously, keeping the same, consistent angle is key, and I don`t believe I could ever do that. And to clamp knives into the Lansky sharpeners, and go through all that seems so tedious to even consider.

We've all been there!

I think your Work Sharp is an excellent tool based on results I've seen. We just need to . . . hone in . . . on what is keeping you from achieving the results you desire. I'll have to defer to the others, though. I know how the Work Sharp functions, but I've never actually used one.

 

[grunt soldier]

I use the work sharp on all my big blades. Busse. Strider. Scrap yard. Hortons etc. It's super easy to reprofile with it for me as I bought the blade grinding attachment.

The key is like most folks have said. You have to get the burr and slowly wear it down with less pressure and finer grits. Practice a lot. Some steels form burrs easy. Some like my 110v strider take a good minute lol

 

[winchester]

i get great results with the work sharp. i think the trick is to use the 6000 grit belts for 95%+ of all sharpening. maybe a pass,then very light pass with the 220 if the edge is like a butter knife then a fresh 6000 belt for maybe 6 per side then a used 6000 belt with light pressure alternating multiple times for polishing. just dont getin a hurry, and dont pull the tip across the whole belt or it will grind,round the tip.

 

[Taurahe]

Following closely..... I just picked up a work sharp belt sharpener myself and I am having the same results... usably sharp, but not even close to shaving sharp. I have a large pile of old hi carbon steel knives to play with, and so far my best results have been attained by using the medium belt, then the fine belt, and finishing on my Spyderco sharp maker. Still not as sharp as i would like, but i used one in the kitchen and it made seriously short work of potatoes so i am getting some progress. I have only had it a few days now. Still not gutsy to put my spyderco endura to it yet, but i will eventually. I personally only use the side that flows down the edge, not the side that goes against it. I put too much pressure on the knife when i do and it throws of my bevel. Spinning the sharpener is fast and easy lol.

 

[Dean C.]

Following closely..... I just picked up a work sharp belt sharpener myself and I am having the same results... usably sharp, but not even close to shaving sharp. I have a large pile of old hi carbon steel knives to play with, and so far my best results have been attained by using the medium belt, then the fine belt, and finishing on my Spyderco sharp maker. Still not as sharp as i would like, but i used one in the kitchen and it made seriously short work of potatoes so i am getting some progress. I have only had it a few days now. Still not gutsy to put my spyderco endura to it yet, but i will eventually. I personally only use the side that flows down the edge, not the side that goes against it. I put too much pressure on the knife when i do and it throws of my bevel. Spinning the sharpener is fast and easy lol.

Apply sharpie to the bevels to make sure you are sharpening 100% of the edge and then finish off with a strop once you have removed the burr

 

[HamsterStyle]

Apply sharpie to the bevels to make sure you are sharpening 100% of the edge and then finish off with a strop once you have removed the burr

I have started doing this every time I sharpen my knives and it has made a big difference. I am only using a lansky system but it allows me to see that I am getting a consistent edge on the knife. I have also been using my belt as a strop. Not sure if it's making a huge difference, but it makes me feel a little better. Bonus: my wife loves making fun of me when I am done sharpening a few knives because I will walk out of my room with bald spots all over my arm. Hahaha

 

[augdog]

Work sharp

I have A work sharp and it does A mediocre job at the best.You have to be careful not to ruin your knife! Back to stones and A leather strop.Razor sharp knives again.The work sharp went to the drawer with the holsters that never worked out!