.38 Special Wadcutters

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  • Plinkuh

    Master
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    10   0   0
    Dec 7, 2010
    1,686
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    West Side of Indy
    I was given some Sellier & Bellot .38spl wadcutters by a relative yesterday. I just picked up a Taurus 85, and was wondering if it'd be safe to shoot these through it. I know little to nothing about revolvers, and absolutely nothing about wadcutters. I hoped I could use these for plinking. So, thoughts on this?
     

    Mgderf

    Grandmaster
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    May 30, 2009
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    Lafayette
    No problem at all, although they are pure lead rounds, so you may end up needing to clean a little more than usual.
     

    billybob44

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    Sep 22, 2010
    3,452
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    In the Man Cave
    Lead is no problem..

    Will CLP take care of it?

    If after your normal barrel clean, you see some streaks of lead, the two easiest ways:

    1.Use an over sized (.45acp) Stainless Steel brush soaked in CLP, stroke,slowly the inside of the barrel 1/2 dozen times, and the cyl chambers 2-3 times.

    2.Get a "Chore Boy" COPPER cleaning pad, cut off small sections, feed into a cleaning eye, and stroke inside of barrel a dozen or so times, and the cyl 2-3 times.

    Note:If you choose option #1-do NOT run brush fast, or get overly aggressive in your brushing--do a couple of strokes-follow with dry patch+repeat as needed.

    I shoot a lot of wheel weight lead, and either way works for me...Bill.
     

    Plinkuh

    Master
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    10   0   0
    Dec 7, 2010
    1,686
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    West Side of Indy
    If after your normal barrel clean, you see some streaks of lead, the two easiest ways:

    1.Use an over sized (.45acp) Stainless Steel brush soaked in CLP, stroke,slowly the inside of the barrel 1/2 dozen times, and the cyl chambers 2-3 times.

    2.Get a "Chore Boy" COPPER cleaning pad, cut off small sections, feed into a cleaning eye, and stroke inside of barrel a dozen or so times, and the cyl 2-3 times.

    Note:If you choose option #1-do NOT run brush fast, or get overly aggressive in your brushing--do a couple of strokes-follow with dry patch+repeat as needed.

    I shoot a lot of wheel weight lead, and either way works for me...Bill.

    I know with semi-auto's you should never insert a cleaning rod into the the muzzle end first, always start with the brush in the chamber. Is this true for revolvers too? It'd be hard for me to get a brush and rod into my barrel unless I stick up the muzzle end first. Is this still a no-no even with revolvers?
     

    45fan

    Master
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    1   0   0
    Apr 20, 2011
    2,388
    48
    East central IN
    Wad cutters are my favorite plinking bullets to load. Light recoil, great way to get a beginner used to a small revolver, and they cut the cleanest holes in targets. Clean up for be usually consists of a wet patch with CLP or Kroil, let it soak for a few min, then run a brush through the barrel a few times. Another wet patch to pick up the loose chunks, followed by dry patch on a jag. If that Taurus is stainless, I highly recommend picking up a lead remover cloth too, makes getting the powder burns off the front of the cylinder much easier.
     

    Plinkuh

    Master
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    10   0   0
    Dec 7, 2010
    1,686
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    West Side of Indy
    Wad cutters are my favorite plinking bullets to load. Light recoil, great way to get a beginner used to a small revolver, and they cut the cleanest holes in targets. Clean up for be usually consists of a wet patch with CLP or Kroil, let it soak for a few min, then run a brush through the barrel a few times. Another wet patch to pick up the loose chunks, followed by dry patch on a jag. If that Taurus is stainless, I highly recommend picking up a lead remover cloth too, makes getting the powder burns off the front of the cylinder much easier.

    But, my question above your post; do I insert the rob from the muzzle end or, like a semi auto, start with inserting it into the forcing cone?
     

    billybob44

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    Sep 22, 2010
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    In the Man Cave
    I know with semi-auto's you should never insert a cleaning rod into the the muzzle end first, always start with the brush in the chamber. Is this true for revolvers too? It'd be hard for me to get a brush and rod into my barrel unless I stick up the muzzle end first. Is this still a no-no even with revolvers?


    The cleaning rod down the muzzle is OK on a revolver. The key point is to NOT let the rod drag down the edges of the barrel when stroking. In other words, try to keep the rod centered in the bore.
    I have more than several revolvers that I have done this for years (25-40), and they shoot as good today as they did when new. And NO, I do not have any lead in my barrels..Bill.
     

    Plinkuh

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    Dec 7, 2010
    1,686
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    West Side of Indy
    The cleaning rod down the muzzle is OK on a revolver. The key point is to NOT let the rod drag down the edges of the barrel when stroking. In other words, try to keep the rod centered in the bore.
    I have more than several revolvers that I have done this for years (25-40), and they shoot as good today as they did when new. And NO, I do not have any lead in my barrels..Bill.

    Thanks again Bill! You're very helpful today :D
     

    billybob44

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    Sep 22, 2010
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    You WILL have fun with your revolver..

    You will find after you get used to the "ins+outs" of your little revolver you will want to buy something bigger to go with it..

    A good starter is a "K" frame S&W (4 or 6"barrel). Those, or the Ruger GP100's are GREAT range/target/hunting guns that will kind of "Grow" on you...Bill.
     

    Plinkuh

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    Dec 7, 2010
    1,686
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    West Side of Indy
    You will find after you get used to the "ins+outs" of your little revolver you will want to buy something bigger to go with it..

    A good starter is a "K" frame S&W (4 or 6"barrel). Those, or the Ruger GP100's are GREAT range/target/hunting guns that will kind of "Grow" on you...Bill.

    Next one up on the list is a Ruger SP101 3" .357/.38 stainless with an XS big dot night sight on the front! OR a nice 2"-4" SW 686 with fixed rear sights. Oh yeah, I've got the bug. :D
     

    45fan

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    Apr 20, 2011
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    East central IN
    Next one up on the list is a Ruger SP101 3" .357/.38 stainless with an XS big dot night sight on the front! OR a nice 2"-4" SW 686 with fixed rear sights. Oh yeah, I've got the bug. :D

    I started into revolvers a bit larger, my first was a Ruger SBH. My next was a Smith 442, and now, I am keeping an eye open for a 4" Smith in .357 to go with it. I still love my autos, but its nice to be able to shoot and not chase brass everywhere sometimes.
     

    Plinkuh

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    Dec 7, 2010
    1,686
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    West Side of Indy
    I started into revolvers a bit larger, my first was a Ruger SBH. My next was a Smith 442, and now, I am keeping an eye open for a 4" Smith in .357 to go with it. I still love my autos, but its nice to be able to shoot and not chase brass everywhere sometimes.

    I love auto's as well. I don't think I'll be going higher than .357 in my next revolver. Maybe after that I'll look into .41mag or .44mag. :D
     

    Plinkuh

    Master
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    10   0   0
    Dec 7, 2010
    1,686
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    West Side of Indy
    If after your normal barrel clean, you see some streaks of lead, the two easiest ways:

    1.Use an over sized (.45acp) Stainless Steel brush soaked in CLP, stroke,slowly the inside of the barrel 1/2 dozen times, and the cyl chambers 2-3 times.

    On this Bill, does it NEED to be stainless brush? I have a .45 nylon brush I can attach to a cleaning rod. Will this suffice?
     

    Indy_Guy_77

    Grandmaster
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    16   0   0
    Apr 30, 2008
    16,576
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    If after your normal barrel clean, you see some streaks of lead, the two easiest ways:

    1.Use an over sized (.45acp) Stainless Steel brush soaked in CLP, stroke,slowly the inside of the barrel 1/2 dozen times, and the cyl chambers 2-3 times.

    2.Get a "Chore Boy" COPPER cleaning pad, cut off small sections, feed into a cleaning eye, and stroke inside of barrel a dozen or so times, and the cyl 2-3 times.

    Note:If you choose option #1-do NOT run brush fast, or get overly aggressive in your brushing--do a couple of strokes-follow with dry patch+repeat as needed.

    I shoot a lot of wheel weight lead, and either way works for me...Bill.

    What ever you want to do is fine by me...

    But, chemically speaking, Breakfree CLP doesn't dissolve lead.

    -J-
     
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