AR lower differences?

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  • KG1

    Forgotten Man
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    I've used a few Anderson lowers and my latest assembly I used an Anderson upper receiver. I have'nt had an issue one with them. I put the bulk of my money into things like barrel, BCG and triggers. I don't consider my stuff to be junk. If I were to get a bad lower I would not accept it. Could happen with any manufacturer.
     
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    Bfish

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    I have an Aero and a PSA, and they both work perfect. Lowers are lowers...don't worry about it.

    I have a lot of Aero and PSA also and they all have been 100%

    The only issue I've had has been that the uppers and lowers don't aesthetically match up perfectly for some reason with the lines. My aero enhanced upper does but all other uppers are a touch off on both my palmetto and aero lowers. In all honesty though, unless I am buying a complete rifle I don't worry too much about it. I just sometimes want things a certain way when I'm dumping so much money into it.

    On one plus side and a reason I like the aero lowers is due to the tension screws. You can tighten them up to fit to any upper which is nice especially if you are going to make it an SBR or what not. Provides peace of mind in my opinion if that even matters to you (I've yet to have a upper and lower to have a super loose lock up).
     

    sig1473

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    The Greater Good
    If there is play between the upper and lower, then that is perfectly normal. This does not affect accuracy at all. If you have a tight upper and receiver fit, it will loosen up over time if you actually shoot it.
     

    Bfish

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    If there is play between the upper and lower, then that is perfectly normal. This does not affect accuracy at all. If you have a tight upper and receiver fit, it will loosen up over time if you actually shoot it.

    I do not disagree at all. The would possibly only matter to me in something like a precision rifle and even then it doesn't technically make it any less "accurate" you are correct.
     

    Saber

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    If you buy any "mil spec" lower it will work just fine.
    The spec includes tolerances on all of the machining.
    If the tolerances are held there should be no problems whatsoever.
    If the tolerances are not held to spec it is defective and not to "mil spec".
    The only differences between "mil spec" parts should be cosmetic.
    I have seen guys on youtube machine 80% lowers on a cheap drill press with a plastic fixture that work perfect.
     

    seedubs1

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    There's the issue. You'll never know if it's actually mil-spec if you buy the bargain bin junk. Parts is not parts.

    If you buy any "mil spec" lower it will work just fine.
    The spec includes tolerances on all of the machining.
    If the tolerances are held there should be no problems whatsoever.
    If the tolerances are not held to spec it is defective and not to "mil spec".
    The only differences between "mil spec" parts should be cosmetic.
    I have seen guys on youtube machine 80% lowers on a cheap drill press with a plastic fixture that work perfect.
     
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    diavic

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    Do you have a source? I don't believe that to be true.

    A few years ago Spikes posted a photo of their assembly area on FB. In the back ground you could see a bunch of boxes that had Andersons logo on them. Someone asked if the boxes were from Anderson, and someone from Spikes replied "Yes". This started a discussion on who makes their uppers/Lowers.

    This was a few years ago and I can not find the picture.

    Aero may be making the lowers now, This is just what I saw a few years ago.
     

    miguel

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    Let me take this is another direction...

    What is the difference between a "multi" lower and one with a specific caliber markings? I mean, I understand one can be used for any caliber while one is limited, but what is it about the shape/size/other in the lower that limits its use?
     

    Just Jeremy

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    Let me take this is another direction...

    What is the difference between a "multi" lower and one with a specific caliber markings? I mean, I understand one can be used for any caliber while one is limited, but what is it about the shape/size/other in the lower that limits its use?

    Hmmm. I would like to know also.
     

    LEaSH

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    No difference between dimensions on Multi vs specific.

    Only when you see the big magwell of the 308 type receivers is their a difference.
     

    sgreen3

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    I guess I can give my opinion on the matter. To the a lower is parts holder, nothing more, it just needs to work. With that being said I have Anderson's, a Del-Ton, PSA, NFA Billet, Spikes and a Mega. So take this for whatever its worth, but each one of these rifles work and work well. My Run-N-Gun carbine that I beat on constantly with an untold amount of rounds through is sporting the Del-Ton lower that I think I gave $49 bucks for at the time I built it does everything that Mega lower does. I guess the finish may be a little better, but the fit between the Mega lower and Mega upper receiver I have isn't really enough for me to warrant the cost of buying that set again. My 6.5Grendal build is done on a Anderson lower ha ha, I love the looks I get when I get it out and get the snickers due to what it says on the side of the lower and the proceed to shoot a sub moa group with it at 300yrds. Moral of the story is if you want a higher dollar lower because its cool to you and you just want it, then by all means get it! If your wanting to save some coin on your build and still have a rifle to shoot, don't be afraid to buy an Anderson or other comparable brand. If they were really as bad as they say I highly doubt they would see as many as they do and would be continuing to do business.:twocents:
     

    LPMan59

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    Until you build an AR with a billet lower, you don't know what you're missing.

    My first billet lower was a Seekins and the machining and fit and finish sold me on them. It was beautiful. Then I went with a Mega upper-lower set, POF P308 lower, and my P415 has a billet lower.

    Yes they're more expensive but it's one of those things that until you try one, you shouldn't dog them because of the cost.

    I have forged lower ARs too, but my preference by far is billet. I love the machining. Some people pay more for fancy wood on bolt actions....some pay more for perfect machining.



    Lowers are only "lowers" when the holes are in the right spots. That doesn't always happen

    can you elucidate on exactly what I'm missing? I'm not interested in paying a bunch extra for how it looks (in fact I paid extra for it to look bad because it's a colt. ;) ) . Does a billet offer better reliability of accuracy?
     

    M67

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    can you elucidate on exactly what I'm missing? I'm not interested in paying a bunch extra for how it looks (in fact I paid extra for it to look bad because it's a colt. ;) ) . Does a billet offer better reliability of accuracy?

    Parts aren't parts, and not all parts are equal.
     

    M67

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    As long as the parts fit its gtg. Billet to me is a waste of money but your gun is not my gun and that is ok.

    Let's compare deer rifles for a second.

    Minute of deer heart at 150 yards, any modern center fire rifle should be capable of shooting 3" groups at 150 yards.

    So, why buy anything else than a Savage Axis or a Remington 770? Anything else would be a waste of money because they would all produce acceptable results and would work. So why spend more? Wouldn't dropping $500, $700, $1000 in a rifle (pre optic) that you wouldn't shoot past 150 yards be a complete waste of money?
     

    miguel

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    So, why buy anything else than a Savage Axis or a Remington 770? Anything else would be a waste of money because they would all produce acceptable results and would work. So why spend more? Wouldn't dropping $500, $700, $1000 in a rifle (pre optic) that you wouldn't shoot past 150 yards be a complete waste of money?

    As Marcellus Wallace said in Pulp Fiction, although not specifically about deer rifles, "That's pride ****in' with you..."


    pulp+fiction+marcellus.jpg
     

    Hookeye

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    Let's compare deer rifles for a second.

    Minute of deer heart at 150 yards, any modern center fire rifle should be capable of shooting 3" groups at 150 yards.

    So, why buy anything else than a Savage Axis or a Remington 770? Anything else would be a waste of money because they would all produce acceptable results and would work. So why spend more? Wouldn't dropping $500, $700, $1000 in a rifle (pre optic) that you wouldn't shoot past 150 yards be a complete waste of money?

    Savage Axis has a crap stock that flexes and is a long action, even when for a short action cartridge, the bolt handle bangs on scopes mounted to proper height. You can rework them to tolerable. The Rem 770 is a turd.

    Billet AR lowers are nice, but what alloy? What is the grain structure? What mods over standard dims? I have seen some that were thicker at the stock attachment and required a customized buffer tube to use a fixed stock. Seen some that were of old school dims at various areas (like front take down pin radius-front of magwell).

    The bolt rifles you mention also suck ergonomically, and in feel during cycling.
    AR billet vs reg...............
     
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