Just one more 1911...

[churchmouse]

What kind/brand jig is that? Can you work both the hammer and sear on the tool?

Yes. It is for both. It allows you to square up and polish the hammer hooks and address the sear. If set up right you can do both angles on the sear and polish it during the process. Brand escapes me.

 

[1911ly]

What kind/brand jig is that? Can you work both the hammer and sear on the tool?

Yes you can. It's a Bob Marvel jig. I also have the stones and file to go with it. I picked it up from a fellow list member.

 

[churchmouse]

I had not really thought that out. So the issue is worse then it appears :-(

This is the first time I used it (the jig). It makes it easy. It's a keeper. When this 1911 is done I will run the other hammer and sear threw it and see what it looks like.

Once you skin off the hard surface of MIM parts they have a shortened life span. Keep a good watch on the hammer sear area after a lot of shooting.

 

[1911ly]

Will do!! Thanks for the tips

 

[rhino]

The hammer hooks engage on the outside edges of the sear. Only about 20% or so of the sear is actually in contact with the hammer hooks. If you look at a well used sear (especially an MIM part) you can see wear marks and sometimes feel them.

I have the same block.....love it. Almost idiot proof.

I had over 20K rounds through Old Faithful, my Kimber Eclipse Target II, when the hammer started following. That was actually pretty good lifespan for MIM parts!!! I did not bother to check to see what the problem was since by that point I was on borrowed time anyway. Got a Cylinder & Slide kit with sear, hammer, disconnector, and sear spring and whiz-bang-boom, back in business.

 

[churchmouse]

I had over 20K rounds through Old Faithful, my Kimber Eclipse Target II, when the hammer started following. That was actually pretty good lifespan for MIM parts!!! I did not bother to check to see what the problem was since by that point I was on borrowed time anyway. Got a Cylinder & Slide kit with sear, hammer, disconnector, and sear spring and whiz-bang-boom, back in business.

20K is nothing to sneeze at. How many recoil springs in that run??
Those kits are really nice. I have them in a few guns that have crossed the bench.

 

[451_Detonics]

Looking through the box of 1911 parts I think it may be time for another 1911 build...

 

[churchmouse]

Looking through the box of 1911 parts I think it may be time for another 1911 build...

HHHhhhhhmmmmmmmm..............I need 1 of those and 2 of those and yes....at least 1 of those.............

 

[451_Detonics]

I have a S&W parts box and a M1 carbine box, AR Box, H&K box...lol...just wish my local gunshop didn't charge $40 bucks to transfer a receiver...

 

[gregkl]

I have a S&W parts box and a M1 carbine box, AR Box, H&K box...lol...just wish my local gunshop didn't charge $40 bucks to transfer a receiver...

Ouch! My LGS is going to transfer 5 for me. For $20.

 

[rhino]

20K is nothing to sneeze at. How many recoil springs in that run??
Those kits are really nice. I have them in a few guns that have crossed the bench.

Actually, I changed to a Wolff 18.5# spring when it was new and after that . . . same spring. If it's any shorter than when it was new, it's tough to tell even compared to a brand new spring.

Almost all of the rounds shot were factory 230gr FMJ, with maybe 15% 200gr LSWC loads that comfortably made major power factor for USPSA.

 

[churchmouse]

Actually, I changed to a Wolff 18.5# spring when it was new and after that . . . same spring. If it's any shorter than when it was new, it's tough to tell even compared to a brand new spring.

Almost all of the rounds shot were factory 230gr FMJ, with maybe 15% 200gr LSWC loads that comfortably made major power factor for USPSA.

Sweet.
I seriously doubt the OEM spring would run that long.

 

[palerider0485]

awesome, there is always room for one more. good luck with it.

 

[1911ly]

Looking through the box of 1911 parts I think it may be time for another 1911 build...

I'll tale one hammer and one sear please! LOL. Seriously, you gotta build something! And we need pics!!

 

[rhino]

Sweet.
I seriously doubt the OEM spring would run that long.

Probably not... they're usually 16#.

I've not had the same longevity with commanders and officer's size guns, though.

 

[dave29]

I have several 1911's, but man, I wish I knew how to work on them like you guys do. I'd love to build one, or even buy a cheap one just to do upgrades on for the experience, but I have no clue where to start.

 

[churchmouse]

I have several 1911's, but man, I wish I knew how to work on them like you guys do. I'd love to build one, or even buy a cheap one just to do upgrades on for the experience, but I have no clue where to start.

Tools........a lot of spec tooling for the 1911 platform. Brownells is your friend.

When you get that done check back and step 2 will be discussed.

We will be waiting patiently......

 

[451_Detonics]

I have several 1911's, but man, I wish I knew how to work on them like you guys do. I'd love to build one, or even buy a cheap one just to do upgrades on for the experience, but I have no clue where to start.

I know some think it is outdated but buying a copy of Hallock's 45 Handbook is a great place to start learning how the parts interact. http://www.amazon.com/Hallocks-auto-handbook-Kenneth-Hallock/dp/B0006Y15G8

 

[1911ly]

Here is a pretty cool animation.
[video=youtube;E6SmlOEzNBs]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E6SmlOEzNBs&feature=player_embedded[/video]

It's a start to understanding the 1911's workings.

 

[dave29]

Tools........a lot of spec tooling for the 1911 platform. Brownells is your friend.

When you get that done check back and step 2 will be discussed.

We will be waiting patiently......

Haha, sounds like a plan!