Remington 700 upgrades

[CountryBoy19]

I definitely recommend shooting it first... my SPS .308 is a tack driver with factory barrel. I can fairly consistently hold less than 1/2 MOA at 400 yards with it. IMHO, the most important part is the stock, my rifle didn't shoot nearly as well as that until I put a quality stock on.

One thing to consider when choosing a stock is what do you want to do with the rifle? Shoot matches where speed is king? You probably want detacheable box mags; that will be expensive when you price new bottom metal or a chassis system that takes the box mags. If you just plan to target shoot and hunt with it I recommend sticking with more affordable stock options. I have a Bell & Carlson and for the price (under $200 when I bought it several years ago) it has been a phenomenal stock.

 

[Mark 1911]

I'm a big 700 fan and just echoing what's already been said. Shoot it first. 700s have a reputation for being great shooters out of the box. I'd definitely experiment with some custom reloads before changing the barrel out. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised.

 

[Unobogus]

I'm definitely gonna shoot it first, maybe just because I can't afford to upgrade it at the moment. I won't be shooting any matches with it, mainly just wanting something that I can stretch out and try to get as precise as possible. I know I don't want a chassis system, just not my style. I guess I thought if I got a new stock, I'd only want to purchase one, so I'd go ahead and get one for a heavy barrel. While I have some attention, does anyone have any ides on a good place to purchase .260 Rem brass (online) I really don't have too much locally to choose from.

 

[42769vette]

I ran Remington when I first shot 260. After 1 mild loading I lost ALL primer pockets. Lapua was not around back then so I went with nosler and have had wonderful luck. I now run a little on the hot side (42.7 H4350) and after 9 firings it's still ticking.

 

[Unobogus]

That's good to know. I just 100 Lapua because I knew it would be good and it was actually the same price as anything else in stock.

 

[42769vette]

That's good to know. I just 100 Lapua because I knew it would be good and it was actually the same price as anything else in stock.

I would have gone Lapua as well but it was not a option until after I had done load development with nosler

 

[tradertator]

I think you've gotten some really good advice so far, and I'll throw in my . Remington 700's are very accurate out of the box. If your new to precision shooting, plan on shooting out the factory barrel before thinking about having it replaced. It will be quite some time before you're outshooting the factory one. My 2 biggest gripes on most models are the stock and the X Mark trigger. One way around that though is buying a Police model. As far as rings / base / and optics, buy the best you can afford, seriously. That is one place you do not want to skimp out on. If every time you take the rifle out and your zero shifts, or you drop it on accident and crosshairs are sitting in the bottom of the glass, you are going to get discouraged quickly. Also, find some training or work with someone that is experienced in that type of shooting. Appleseed is a great start, and a very affordable option in comparison to some of the other firearm training available.

 

[Unobogus]

Trader, I think so I've gotten some pretty good advice too, it's been helpful. My wife likes your advice....she'd rather me not spend too much money on this thing. Police model is not an option, I bought the only one I could find, SPS, black synthetic stock, with sporter barrel. Copy on the trigger, still deciding on which one, but I do think I am going with a Vortex scope, not sure on base and rings yet? I'm open to options on those as well.

 

[straight-shooter]

I also have the same quandary on the trigger for my Rem 700 .223 PSS model. I'm considering the Timney 510 or the 517 trigger but am still holding out for more research but I probably won't last long till I'll have to order it.

 

[Hookeye]

I ran Remington when I first shot 260. After 1 mild loading I lost ALL primer pockets. Lapua was not around back then so I went with nosler and have had wonderful luck. I now run a little on the hot side (42.7 H4350) and after 9 firings it's still ticking.

Been a prob with Rem brass for ages. WW or Norma for me.

 

[45fan]

Little late adding my , but I have to echo what has been already repeated. I wanted to put together a rifle for basically the same thing you are doing, nothing match-worthy, just something that I could test my abilities with, and possibly drop a 'yote or two at distance from time to time.

I started out with a .308 Varmint rifle from Dicks (one of the cheapest 700 HBs I could find) and immediately changed the scope out from the one they send in the box. I shot enough to work up what I thought was a good load, basically a copy of the Fed GMM 168gr load using IMR 4064. After that, I tried to free float the stock, but the more I trimmed, the tighter it got. The factory stock is junk. I didnt have the cash to replace it, so I filled the front end of the stock with glass to stiffen it, and finally got things to a satisfactory barrel clearance. Just free floating the barrel shrank groups from 1 1/2 MOA (+/- ) to consistent 3/4 MOA groups.

I still havent changed stocks, been shooting it this way for a few years now, probably around 5-600 rounds through it, and still keeping me grinning. Best advice to start out with, put good glass on it, and shoot that rifle as much as you can. It just might surprise you in stock form.

 

[42769vette]

Trader, I think so I've gotten some pretty good advice too, it's been helpful. My wife likes your advice....she'd rather me not spend too much money on this thing. Police model is not an option, I bought the only one I could find, SPS, black synthetic stock, with sporter barrel. Copy on the trigger, still deciding on which one, but I do think I am going with a Vortex scope, not sure on base and rings yet? I'm open to options on those as well.

When ever you get ready to order call me, and Ill know what combination's work with the scope you pick etc, etc.

 

[tradertator]

Copy on the trigger, still deciding on which one, but I do think I am going with a Vortex scope, not sure on base and rings yet? I'm open to options on those as well.

I'm a big fan of the Timney trigger, especially given the price. But almost anything you put in it is going to be remarkably better than the factory X Mark. There are also guys out there that will re-work a factory trigger and can get them much better than the stock configuration. Vortex definitely makes good glass given it's price point, and seems to be a favorite on this forum.
In regards to the rings and base, I typically use Badger Ordnance rings w/ their tapered base on a high end precision build and Leupold Dual Dovetail rings in a 1 piece base for a cheaper / hunting style rig. There are a ton of options out there though, and everyone is going to give you their personal favorites. Steel is typically going to be a little more expensive and considered more rigid in general. Aluminum is going to weigh less, typically cost less, and can be just as good as steel depending on the manufacturer. Cheaper rings will often benefit from lapping, higher quality ones typically don't require it. There are lots of exceptions to those couple of generalizations though, so do some homework before deciding. I will say IMO, if you have the money for Badger, they are honestly the best.
Something else you'll want to consider is a tapered base vs a flat one. Tapered bases are great if you have good quality glass that tracks well and you want to suck every bit of dope out of your optic as possible. Flat bases are typically a bit easier to sight in, and probably a better option if you plan to go the "Kentucky Windage" route. Regardless what you get though, read the manufactures instructions for installing the rings & base, and torque appropriately with an inch pound torque driver and blue loctite. Having a consistant pressure on each attachment point on your rings can really help, and it cost you nothing to do it right (minus maybe the torque driver which you'll probably find yourself using all the time). Not to mention you'll be glad you did someday if you ever go to change the optic and you're not drilling out stripped fasteners from white knuckling them in.

 

[Unobogus]

I'm not familiar with WW brass? Who manufactures this?

 

[avboiler11]

I'm not familiar with WW brass? Who manufactures this?

Winchester...

 

[Unobogus]

Alan, I'll definitely contact you when I'm ready.
Trader, Thanks for the advice. One question, what about Larue bases and mounts, what do you think about those? I have them on an AR but not any bolt actions. I know their good, but didn't know what other people thought about them.
Boiler, copy...Thought so but had not seen the WW label

 

[42769vette]

Larue mounts will make the scope sit pretty high on a bolt gun. There is a mount from Bobro coming out soon that you should look at if you need QD. Its the same money, and better all the way around. If you don't need QD I wouldn't pay the extra money for it. Right now I have plenty of Warne QD rings in stock which is another option you should look at, but Larue should be off the table for you.

 

[dhamby]

Trader, I think so I've gotten some pretty good advice too, it's been helpful. My wife likes your advice....she'd rather me not spend too much money on this thing. Police model is not an option, I bought the only one I could find, SPS, black synthetic stock, with sporter barrel. Copy on the trigger, still deciding on which one, but I do think I am going with a Vortex scope, not sure on base and rings yet? I'm open to options on those as well.

I also run a Timney trigger, the 510 to be exact. I started out on a similar path with a similar rifle, Remington 700 SPS Varmint .308. After many different stages I wish I would have known now what I did when I started this venture. I would recommend buying the best glass you can afford. Right now there are several deals through dealers on the Vortex Razor HD 5-20x50 for $1350, I recently picked one up and am amazed at the quality of this thing for the money. The Vortex precision matched rings are rebranded Seekins Precision rings and are quality rings for about $60 less than Badger rings, though you can't go wrong with the Badgers either. The Badger mounts are quality as well, though I have had great luck with EGW HD mounts as well for an option to save some money. I was getting decent accuracy out of my SPS after switching stocks to a Hogue take off and bedding the recoil lug area but I now use a Bell and Carlson M40 stock and is leaps and bounds better than the SPS and Hogue stocks and price is reasonable.

 

[Unobogus]

Thanks Alan, that's why I ask.
Hamby, I think that is the one I'm going with. I'll look at the Razor but I was initially thinking about the PST. Not sure if I can justify the price increase? I'll have to get current pricing on both when I get to that point.
So not to get on a big scope discussion yet but for long range is the Razor 5-20x50 as good as the PST 6-24x50 for long range? I know it's not much but does the extra magnification help at distance?

 

[dhamby]

Thanks Alan, that's why I ask.
Hamby, I think that is the one I'm going with. I'll look at the Razor but I was initially thinking about the PST. Not sure if I can justify the price increase? I'll have to get current pricing on both when I get to that point.
So not to get on a big scope discussion yet but for long range is the Razor 5-20x50 as good as the PST 6-24x50 for long range? I know it's not much but does the extra magnification help at distance?

While I have not had a chance to shoot with the Razor HD yet, after looking through both the Razor and PST, and playing with both the Razor is a far better scope than the PST and will serve great as a long range optic, I'm sure Alan can give more insight into all the technical differences. To me the optical clarity was not that great on the PST at or near the max mag where as the Razor is crisp at all mag settings. The Razor HD turrets are large and have very tactile clicks, the PST's I've been around I did not care for the smaller size of the turrets and clicks were not as audible but felt decent. The Razor has almost twice the internal travel as the PST IIRC. The zero stop on the Razor HD is great and returns exactly to zero each time once set. At the $1350 price tag it is a no brainer over the PST if you can swing the extra couple hundred as they retail around the $2k price range. I went with the EBR3 mrad reticle but the ebr1 moa reticle is the same price, the EBR2 mrad reticle are on sale as well but a bit more $.