AR-15 Home Defense Build

[NyleRN]

To be honest, I suspect that it will probably take me at least a year (if not more) to purchase all of the components that I'll need anyway, so I doubt I'll build it as a pistol first. I would just buy the receiver first to get the paperwork started and expect that I would have my stamp back long before I have everything to actually assemble. Actually, my first step would be to setup an NFA trust and then buy the receiver.

Any suggestions or comments on what lower to look for? I'm a complete newbie here, so bare with me.

I'd build the pistol first before you form 1 it. You don't want to form 1 it and find out that something is wrong with it later.

 

[mammynun]

Are you a lefty? If so, get an ambidextrous lower. If not, any lower that you like, as long as it's not plastic.

​FIFY

 

[Dean C.]

Another note on a suppressed 300 blackout for home defence, after shooting my Uncle's rifle (it's a 2 stamp 11.5 inch barrel with a can) loaded with 220gr Gemtech ammo. We shot it at an indoor range without ear protection (totally empty range, RO's clearance) without any issues at all , honestly it was quieter than the 22 pistol I was shooting. I think that is a fantastic HAD set up as you don't want to deafen yourself or your family.

 

[Ggreen]

Set your budget and build around it. It's too easy to overbuild. I'd go with 300blk for hd

 

[dudley0]

If you do not have anything then buy or build a rifle or a pistol. I would start with 5.56 because it is cheaper to shoot. Test it all you can. Make sure it runs right with the set-up you have. Then apply for the tax stamp. That way you know it works and you have something while you wait.

Full sized rifle beats waiting any day. Loud beats dead as well.

Find some people close to where you live that have different set-ups and try those out. No sense in jumping in full bore and spending all your money just to find out it isn't what you want.

 

[KG1]

2 of my SBR's are Anderson lowers. I've had zero problems or complaints with them.
Dan

I don't doubt that. I've used a few Anderson lowers myself for a couple of builds without issue. My point was that you do not have to go with the most expensive or the cheapest and I gave some examples. If he wants to go with an Anderson lower then by all means. Have at it.

 

[Excalibur]

An SBR .300 is the ultimate plan since the caliber is designed for suppressed SBRs, it's perfect. Safe for ears and even with a can, it's short enough for if you have to move around at home and even hold with one hand busy doing other things like grabbing your kids, or calling on the phone.

 

[NyleRN]

An SBR .300 is the ultimate plan since the caliber is designed for suppressed SBRs, it's perfect. Safe for ears and even with a can, it's short enough for if you have to move around at home and even hold with one hand busy doing other things like grabbing your kids, or calling on the phone.

I fail to see the point of subsonic 300blk for HD. I would much rather have a suppressed 5.56 SBR. The only positive thing I see with 300blk sub suppressed is it's super quiet. That's it. Might as well defend the home with a supressed Hk USP. The 300blk sub velocity of 1100fps or the 5.56 at 2300fps. Velocity kills.

 

[stern1]

What about over penetration with the 5.56 vs the 300. Don't want to shoot up the neighbors house up too.

 

[Floivanus]

Wouldn't sonic 300 blk have more over penetration than sonic 223? And at subsonic speeds the 223 have less penetration than 300 blk? Isn't over penetration why SWAT et all went to the AR and 9mm handguns?

 

[NyleRN]

What about over penetration with the 5.56 vs the 300. Don't want to shoot up the neighbors house up too.

Pick a good bullet designed for the task. Most defensive 5.56 loads fragment bad when contacting a hard surface, even drywall. Pistol rounds not so much. They keep trucking along in a straight line generally. There's been several tests with pistol vs rifle rounds through drywall.

 

[stern1]

Agreed, need to use the proper bullet for the job. It would help to live in a brick house too.

 

[stern1]

I would love to have a AR upper in 357 or 44 mag.

 

[dudley0]

Neither of those rounds competes with 5.56 for lethality or safety with penetration thru walls and such.

.300 BO in supersonic is still to be determined. New round and all that. Has not had the time in the field.

 

[=Josh=]

At this moment, I think I'm leaning toward 2 stamps: one for a 10.5" 5.56 SBR and a second for a suppressor. Even though I could pin the can and not need the second stamp, I think I want to go ahead and get a stamp for the SBR as it may be a while before I get the can and I will be able to swap out the barrel later without potentially damaging the can if I want. So, I'm thinking of the following setup:

• 10.5" barrel
• Flash hider (to be replaced later with can)
• Red dot optics
• Flip up BUIS
• Floated quad rail
• Tactical light
• Vertical hand grip
• Adjustable stock

A couple of questions with this setup, though:

1. Is an adjustable gas block required/highly recommended?
2. Is it advisable to get rails that extend past the barrel and almost as long as the can in order to get the light and front sight out as far as possible?

 

[MontereyC6]

At this moment, I think I'm leaning toward 2 stamps: one for a 10.5" 5.56 SBR and a second for a suppressor. Even though I could pin the can and not need the second stamp, I think I want to go ahead and get a stamp for the SBR as it may be a while before I get the can and I will be able to swap out the barrel later without potentially damaging the can if I want. So, I'm thinking of the following setup:

• 10.5" barrel
• Flash hider (to be replaced later with can)
• Red dot optics
• Flip up BUIS
• Floated quad rail
• Tactical light
• Vertical hand grip
• Adjustable stock

A couple of questions with this setup, though:

1. Is an adjustable gas block required/highly recommended?
2. Is it advisable to get rails that extend past the barrel and almost as long as the can in order to get the light and front sight out as far as possible?

1) No, adjustable gas block isn't necessary, but if gas blow back bothers you, you might want to add one.

2) I would say DON'T tuck the suppressor under the rails. I have a 300 blackout set up that way, and it can be a pain in the ass at times.

 

[NyleRN]

I'd recommend an adjustable gas block and a 12" rail for a supressed 10.5 barrel. Only thing you need to be careful of is shooting the gun without a suppressor when the rail extends further than the muzzle. Buy a flash can for the time being while you wait on the real can

 

[dudley0]

Have adjustable on my 10.5" 5.56. Three way, so not infinite adjustments. Off, suppressed and on. My .300 BO has the can tucked a little. I am looking for a 14" FF rail right now that has the ID to allow my tuck. I don't plan to remove the can once I get it all set for HD anyhow.

My .22lr upper has the can tucked. Sweet looking and protects it a bit. Real pain to remove it... but I have another in NFA jail right now waiting so I won't have to much longer.

 

[avboiler11]

A 10.5" with flash can tucks nicely under a 12-13" handguard...but I wouldn't tuck a 5.56 suppressor because of heat. If a can is in your future and you want a 10.5" barrel...go with a 9" handguard and an adjustable gas block.

I ran a 10.5" with suppressor, and while it was 100% reliable with the can it was overgassed to the point I installed an AGB to somewhat reduce blowback and put less stress on the bolt.

You're gonna want to do the RTV and "gashole" charging handle mods with a suppressor, too.

 

[mammynun]

At this moment, I think I'm leaning toward 2 stamps: one for a 10.5" 5.56 SBR and a second for a suppressor. Even though I could pin the can and not need the second stamp, I think I want to go ahead and get a stamp for the SBR as it may be a while before I get the can and I will be able to swap out the barrel later without potentially damaging the can if I want. So, I'm thinking of the following setup:

• 10.5" barrel or 11.5"
• Flash hider (to be replaced later with can) or a flash hider that accepts the can you plant to buy
• Red dot optics good call
• Flip up BUIS forget the BUIS and put the money towards an Aimpoint PRO
• Floated quad rail Keymod or M-LOK are more comfortable for me, and they're definitely lighter
• Tactical light critical
• Vertical hand grip you might consider a hand stop, personal pref
• Adjustable stock if you're into balance, consider the weight the suppressor will add when you pick your stock

A couple of questions with this setup, though:

1. Is an adjustable gas block required/highly recommended?
2. Is it advisable to get rails that extend past the barrel and almost as long as the can in order to get the light and front sight out as far as possible?

1. They're nice, but they are a PITA to adjust if you change ammo, shoot both suppressed and unsuppressed and it'll seem like its always on the wrong setting for whatever you want to do. It's a double PITA when it's hidden under a handguard/rail. I have 10.5 (x2), 11.5 (x1), and 12 (x1) inch uppers that I shoot with/without suppressors and I've found that using an H2 or H3 buffer tames 5.56 with a can almost as well as an AGB and it's a whole lot quicker and less of a PITA than messing with the gas system. If you're going to build your rifle and leave it in one configuration and shoot generally the same ammo, an AGB is THE WAY to go. If that's doesn't sound like you, then...

2. I love geometry, specifically right angles 'cause they're strong (like a beet fed Russian woman), so I don't need a Chris Costa length handguard. As long as the gas tube is protected it comes down to personal preference/shooting style. If you get a suppressor that has a locking/ratchet attachment, it will be a PITA to remove when it's hidden under the handguard, especially when it's hot... and they get hot quickly and stay hot. REALLY hot.

This is a lot of money, but in your heart you know it's what you want: 10.5" Gen III Switchblock® Upper | NOVESKE

Or this, and build the rest to taste: Switchblock® Barrel 5.56 | NOVESKE

The Switchblock has 3 settings; suppressed, unsuppressed, and off (aka single shot). I have the 16" version and it's 100% reliable with m193 and m855 and ammo with balls, but not with Wolf ammo when on its suppressed setting either with or without the can (AAC SDN-6).