What all tools would I need to put lower park kit in?
I've the wheeler roll pin punch set. One of the plastic punches has a chamfer on it to slide into the front take down pin holes for ease of installing that detent. Makes it easy as pie. The punches themselves are ok. They do bend if you're too hard on them. There's better outthereAny particular size roll punch?
I've the wheeler roll pin punch set. One of the plastic punches has a chamfer on it to slide into the front take down pin holes for ease of installing that detent. Makes it easy as pie. The punches themselves are ok. They do bend if you're too hard on them. There's better outthere
If your punch is going down inside the pin then use a bigger diameter punchThe problem I've seen with cheap punches (not saying anything about Wheeler punches as I have no experience with them) is that the nub is too big on some of them and the shelf that the pin would be pushed by is uneven and too small. That causes the punch to just drive down inside of the roll pin and split it open instead of driving the pin.I'll have to check out this clevis pin and plastic punch method for the takedown pins. I've been using the razor blade method for my last few builds, and it has worked well except the time I slipped up and the detent rocketed out and down my air duct.....But I'm always looking for a better way to skin a cat.Also, forgot to add a small pair of needle nose pliers to the list. They come in handy for holding some of the smaller parts and getting them in the right place.
What all tools would I need to put lower park kit in?
If your punch is going down inside the pin then use a bigger diameter punch
I was under impression you were using standard punches not starter punches. I've never had any issues like you describe using standard punches and I've assembled at least 10 lowersThen I'd be using too big of a punch and the pin would be sitting on the nub instead of the flat outside the nub like it should. I'm using the right size. The cheap ones are just junk.
And I have no problems with standard (not "roll pin" dedicated) punches. So I see no need to buy good roll pin punches that don't have the issues I described earlier.
I was under impression you were using standard punches not starter punches. I've never had any issues like you describe using standard punches and I've assembled at least 10 lowers
Picked up a set of punches and the clevis pin....so excited
Got mag release, safety switch in, and grip installed.
I also ordered a magpul trigger guard with a US flag engraved into it. Once trigger arrives, I'll polish and install.
I'm also thinking a jp yellow code trigger spring and the trigger adjustment screw to remove most of the play. All is left to purchase is the mil-spec buffer tube kit, which reminds me, what weight buffer should I be using?
You have no idea how much headache you just saved yourself. It can be done with a razor blade, but it's tricky.
On the take down pin, insert your pivot pin (the longer of the two) into the hole from the left side of the receiver making sure that the detent channel is facing forward, away from the detent. Install your detent, spring, and end plate. Butt your take down pin against the pivot pin and push, don't pull, it out. That will get the rear pin installed with little to no headache. Sounds complicated, but there are videos on YouTube to show you what I mean. I think ITS Tactical uses this method in their build series video.
I've used the JP Enhanced Reliability fire control spring set with both a mil-spec and my current ACT. They are a fine and cheap improvement on a trigger.
As for removing take-up with the screw, you may not need to. My ACT that I put on my go-to gun has hardly any. I'd stay it's in the thousandths if any at all, which isn't very noticeable. If this is a precision rig, I'd say go for it but if it's a working gun, you probably could skip that purchase. Either way, I'd hold off until you were sure you wanted it.
Buffer weight is dependent upon gas system length. Most start with an "H" and go from there. Maybe someone here has the build that you're doing, or something darn close, and can give you a better recommendation.
I haven't decided if I wanted to go with a 16" or an 18" barrel....