Trying to decide whether to build or buy an ar15

[Caleb]

What all tools would I need to put lower park kit in?

 

[seedubs1]

You or can do it with very minimal tools. What I like is below:

Roll pin starter punches. They seriously make punching roll pins in so much easier. They hold the roll pin in the punch so you don't have to try to hold the roll pin and punch and use your third hand to hit the punch with a hammer. If you've got the extra $10, they're worth it.

I really dislike roll pin punches. Personally, I don't have a problem using flat punches. Some people have problems with flat punches slipping off the roll pins and dinging their receiver. I have not had that problem. Cheap roll pin punches aren't made right, and they'll split roll pins open. I personally don't want to spend the extra money on good roll pin punches since flat punches work fine for me.

I like a 6 or 8 oz ball peen hammer for driving roll pins. Don't use a sledge, but about any hammer would do.

AR armorers wrench. For the castle nut, it's worth it to get the right tool for the job. I fumbled around with a spanner wrench on my first build and jacked up a castle nut. Never again. Just get an AR wrench.

A receiver block is nice to have. It'll hold your receiver in a vice while you drive in roll pins. It's like a third hand. I use one and love it. But you don't NEED it.

Razor blade for holding the receiver pin detent while installing the pin. YouTube how to do it.

Painters tape to tape up the receiver while you drive in the bolt catch roll pin. It'll save you from marring up your receiver if you slip up.

Allen key or flathead screwdriver. Whatever your grip screw requires.

That should do it. Good luck.

What all tools would I need to put lower park kit in?

 

[Ruffnek]

I'll add to seedubs1's list.

Do yourself a favor and go to the hardware store and pick up a 1/4" x 2" clevis pin. It'll make your life soooooo much easier when installing the pivot pin. Just Google "clevis pin ar 15" and you'll see how to use it. You'll also see that some companies are taking advantage of ignorance and selling this as a "pivot pin installation tool" for around six times the price you'll pay at Lowe's.

 

[Caleb]

Any particular size roll punch?

 

[NyleRN]

Too bad you don't live closer Caleb, we'd sit down and I'd show you how it's done. As stated, the detent for the front take down pin can make you cuss if you don't have the right tool and big baggie. And the bolt catch roll pin takes a little patience and electrical tape for protection.

 

[NyleRN]

Any particular size roll punch?

I've the wheeler roll pin punch set. One of the plastic punches has a chamfer on it to slide into the front take down pin holes for ease of installing that detent. Makes it easy as pie. The punches themselves are ok. They do bend if you're too hard on them. There's better outthere

 

[seedubs1]

The problem I've seen with cheap punches (not saying anything about Wheeler punches as I have no experience with them) is that the nub is too big on some of them and the shelf that the pin would be pushed by is uneven and too small. That causes the punch to just drive down inside of the roll pin and split it open instead of driving the pin.

I'll have to check out this clevis pin and plastic punch method for the takedown pins. I've been using the razor blade method for my last few builds, and it has worked well except the time I slipped up and the detent rocketed out and down my air duct.....But I'm always looking for a better way to skin a cat.

Also, forgot to add a small pair of needle nose pliers to the list. They come in handy for holding some of the smaller parts and getting them in the right place.

I've the wheeler roll pin punch set. One of the plastic punches has a chamfer on it to slide into the front take down pin holes for ease of installing that detent. Makes it easy as pie. The punches themselves are ok. They do bend if you're too hard on them. There's better outthere

 

[NyleRN]

The problem I've seen with cheap punches (not saying anything about Wheeler punches as I have no experience with them) is that the nub is too big on some of them and the shelf that the pin would be pushed by is uneven and too small. That causes the punch to just drive down inside of the roll pin and split it open instead of driving the pin.I'll have to check out this clevis pin and plastic punch method for the takedown pins. I've been using the razor blade method for my last few builds, and it has worked well except the time I slipped up and the detent rocketed out and down my air duct.....But I'm always looking for a better way to skin a cat.Also, forgot to add a small pair of needle nose pliers to the list. They come in handy for holding some of the smaller parts and getting them in the right place.

If your punch is going down inside the pin then use a bigger diameter punch

 

[Caleb]

Picked up a set of punches and the clevis pin....so excited

 

[aaron580]

What all tools would I need to put lower park kit in?

I've built several with nothing but a ducked taped end pair of channel locks. No pins, maybe an Allen for the trigger guard. First upper I did wasn't evendors in a vise block, this time I got one, good investment. Lowers are easy, uppers are on the slightly annoying side.

 

[seedubs1]

Then I'd be using too big of a punch and the pin would be sitting on the nub instead of the flat outside the nub like it should. I'm using the right size. The cheap ones are just junk.

And I have no problems with standard (not "roll pin" dedicated) punches. So I see no need to buy good roll pin punches that don't have the issues I described earlier.

If your punch is going down inside the pin then use a bigger diameter punch

 

[NyleRN]

Then I'd be using too big of a punch and the pin would be sitting on the nub instead of the flat outside the nub like it should. I'm using the right size. The cheap ones are just junk.

And I have no problems with standard (not "roll pin" dedicated) punches. So I see no need to buy good roll pin punches that don't have the issues I described earlier.

I was under impression you were using standard punches not starter punches. I've never had any issues like you describe using standard punches and I've assembled at least 10 lowers

 

[Caleb]

I used an oversized punch to get bolt release pin alost flush, then used a fine point tapered punch to press it in a bit.

 

[seedubs1]

Yeah.....my roll pin punches were super cheap and junky. The machining was terrible on the driving end.

I was under impression you were using standard punches not starter punches. I've never had any issues like you describe using standard punches and I've assembled at least 10 lowers

 

[Caleb]

Got mag release, safety switch in, and grip installed.

I also ordered a magpul trigger guard with a US flag engraved into it. Once trigger arrives, I'll polish and install.

I'm also thinking a jp yellow code trigger spring and the trigger adjustment screw to remove most of the play. All is left to purchase is the mil-spec buffer tube kit, which reminds me, what weight buffer should I be using?

 

[Ruffnek]

Picked up a set of punches and the clevis pin....so excited

You have no idea how much headache you just saved yourself. It can be done with a razor blade, but it's tricky.

On the take down pin, insert your pivot pin (the longer of the two) into the hole from the left side of the receiver making sure that the detent channel is facing forward, away from the detent. Install your detent, spring, and end plate. Butt your take down pin against the pivot pin and push, don't pull, it out. That will get the rear pin installed with little to no headache. Sounds complicated, but there are videos on YouTube to show you what I mean. I think ITS Tactical uses this method in their build series video.

 

[Ruffnek]

Got mag release, safety switch in, and grip installed.

I also ordered a magpul trigger guard with a US flag engraved into it. Once trigger arrives, I'll polish and install.

I'm also thinking a jp yellow code trigger spring and the trigger adjustment screw to remove most of the play. All is left to purchase is the mil-spec buffer tube kit, which reminds me, what weight buffer should I be using?

I've used the JP Enhanced Reliability fire control spring set with both a mil-spec and my current ACT. They are a fine and cheap improvement on a trigger.

As for removing take-up with the screw, you may not need to. My ACT that I put on my go-to gun has hardly any. I'd stay it's in the thousandths if any at all, which isn't very noticeable. If this is a precision rig, I'd say go for it but if it's a working gun, you probably could skip that purchase. Either way, I'd hold off until you were sure you wanted it.

Buffer weight is dependent upon gas system length. Most start with an "H" and go from there. Maybe someone here has the build that you're doing, or something darn close, and can give you a better recommendation.

 

[Caleb]

You have no idea how much headache you just saved yourself. It can be done with a razor blade, but it's tricky.

On the take down pin, insert your pivot pin (the longer of the two) into the hole from the left side of the receiver making sure that the detent channel is facing forward, away from the detent. Install your detent, spring, and end plate. Butt your take down pin against the pivot pin and push, don't pull, it out. That will get the rear pin installed with little to no headache. Sounds complicated, but there are videos on YouTube to show you what I mean. I think ITS Tactical uses this method in their build series video.

Yep...I will say though, the lower reciever vise block tool should be a must unless you have another person to help hold the reciever.

 

[Caleb]

I've used the JP Enhanced Reliability fire control spring set with both a mil-spec and my current ACT. They are a fine and cheap improvement on a trigger.

As for removing take-up with the screw, you may not need to. My ACT that I put on my go-to gun has hardly any. I'd stay it's in the thousandths if any at all, which isn't very noticeable. If this is a precision rig, I'd say go for it but if it's a working gun, you probably could skip that purchase. Either way, I'd hold off until you were sure you wanted it.

Buffer weight is dependent upon gas system length. Most start with an "H" and go from there. Maybe someone here has the build that you're doing, or something darn close, and can give you a better recommendation.

I haven't decided if I wanted to go with a 16" or an 18" barrel....

 

[seedubs1]

Ive done well with h2 buffers in 16" middies and h3 buffers in 16" carbines. But as always, use the heaviest buffer that reliably cycles your weakest ammo. There's lots of variation, and what works in one build won't necessarily work in another.

If you buy a h3 and a carbine buffer, you can always swap the weights to make the h3 lighter.

I haven't decided if I wanted to go with a 16" or an 18" barrel....